The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

My car has the infamous intermittent no start/no crank, help?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

cavillac

15+ Year Contributor
117
0
Sep 30, 2007
Omaha, Nebraska
This started a couple weeks ago on a very cold day when my cars starter would just barely kick the solenoid and not engage or crank. I wouldnt have thought of anything but the starter so I got a new one very very very cheap from our shop supplier (World Starter)... Put it in and the starter gear would spin but not kick into the starter so we got another one but it is doing the same as the original starter(was an OE Mitsu w/119K).

My battery is a tested good Optima Red Top and has new terminals with zero corrosion, my positive B+ wire is good and I have the OE starter ground and another aftermarket starter ground cable, There is no corrosion on any of the wires in the starter circuit.

When I turn the ignition switch to crank I get B+ Voltage to the relay connector behind the radio, from there If I add battery voltage to the wire it will start sometimes and not the rest, just like it does with the relay connected.

Which lead me to believe that it is a problem with the signal wire, This wire has perfect continuity with GROUND", generally a short to ground wire will has some resistance but this showed up with 0 ohms continuity.

I have not been in the dash messing with any wires at all in the last couple months so I am unsure if this is a common problem.


I have the neutral saftey clutch switch disabled, and I do have a remote starter, have had for a year now w/ no prior problems.

So I am curious if there is a common spot where the signal wire gets rubbed through?

Or any help would be great.. the car runs just fine when it actually does crank and start.

Thanks,
Brandon
 
FIXED: The problem was the previous owner of the car half arse installed a greddy turbo timer or something and had cut the wire and then it was repaired with a cheap butt connector and then chopped again and wired to the timer harness, there was 2 strands of wire left in the butt connector.

I found this when I went in under the dash on a lovely 8 degree day to clean up my Remote starter/alarm/keyless entry wiring.

I ended up just cutting/unconnecting the turbo timer out and I'll use my remote starts turbo timer feature.

There was also a wierd looking port with a 6 pin connector and a red LED that I took out, I have no Idea what it was used for though, 5 or the 6 wires were connected and wired to ground and the one hot wire was wired into the ignition switch, could''ve been connected where my problem was.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top