BoostedTalonTS
20+ Year Contributor
- 734
- 50
- Mar 21, 2002
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Bay Area,
California
Batty200 said:I reall liked your post however just a clarification here. Your first chart shows current capacities for wire. The second chart shows current by power demand for an amplifier. However an amplifier is only about 60% efficient at most so you calculated the currnet necessary for a car by about 50% too high. Since the battery is in rear with the amps the required guages are much larger than needed.
Later
From an audio perspective, you are right... I could get away with running a 10 AWG wire to my amps, as the distance is less that 2-3' from the battery. The audio reference was only that, a reference (taken from www.the12volt.com)... When relocating the battery, you do not want to decrease the amount of voltage/amps from the OE location by using too small of a wire to relocate the battery to the trunk. IMO, 4 AWG is too small for use for batery relocations that span that distance. 2 AWG would cut it, but to be sure, I went with the 1/0 AWG.
Batty200 said:...much larger than needed.
..Yep, that's the idea! It's like why even bother relocating the battery if you don't also upgrade the alternator's output wire to the fuse block from the small dual 10 AWG that Mitsu gave us to a 4 AWG at the same time? -The current/voltage has to "work" both ways or end up with a sacrifice to the available onboard voltage/current.
For the layman's perspective, just look at the diameter of the battery posts themselves... Imagine it as being a hollow pipe. Do the same with some 4 AWG wire... Do you think they will "flow" the same?
