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Movin' the battery..whos got pics of theirs?

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Batty200 said:
I reall liked your post however just a clarification here. Your first chart shows current capacities for wire. The second chart shows current by power demand for an amplifier. However an amplifier is only about 60% efficient at most so you calculated the currnet necessary for a car by about 50% too high. Since the battery is in rear with the amps the required guages are much larger than needed.


Later



From an audio perspective, you are right... I could get away with running a 10 AWG wire to my amps, as the distance is less that 2-3' from the battery. The audio reference was only that, a reference (taken from www.the12volt.com)... When relocating the battery, you do not want to decrease the amount of voltage/amps from the OE location by using too small of a wire to relocate the battery to the trunk. IMO, 4 AWG is too small for use for batery relocations that span that distance. 2 AWG would cut it, but to be sure, I went with the 1/0 AWG.


Batty200 said:
...much larger than needed.

..Yep, that's the idea! It's like why even bother relocating the battery if you don't also upgrade the alternator's output wire to the fuse block from the small dual 10 AWG that Mitsu gave us to a 4 AWG at the same time? -The current/voltage has to "work" both ways or end up with a sacrifice to the available onboard voltage/current.

For the layman's perspective, just look at the diameter of the battery posts themselves... Imagine it as being a hollow pipe. Do the same with some 4 AWG wire... Do you think they will "flow" the same?
 
hye, i want to relocate my battery but, on the pass side rear my no2 bottle is sitting there since thats really the only place i could mount it since the gas tank is rite there. anybody have any other spot where i could tie the battery down?
 
hello people,

I used to have my battery mounted in the trunk of my car.. I can tell you from personal experience that 4gauge amp wire is not enough for the job. I thought it would be too but the starter sounded horrible, it wasn't getting enough amps and the battery was always low on power.. I had a optima redtop.

after I moved it back p front I no longer had issues.


I talked to my friends at the audio store and they said for this app. a 2awg. wire that is meant for a welding applications would be better. the larger strand wire can transfer more amps than the thin wired amp cable.
 
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Hawker Genesis G12V 16Ah (same as Odyssey PC680) 4awd wire to original battery terminal. The only time I've ever had problems starting was when the starter was jammed - I also don't start the car in the cold, cause it only makes like 200 CCA.

To legally move your battery you need a sealed box (like the Morosso one) OR get a dry cell battery. So, not only is a dry cell lighter (13lbs), its much cheaper to buy a $60-80 battery than a $40-50 battery and $100 box ;)
 
ballagsx said:
i am also planing on doing a relocation, i have some 4ga laying around that is long enough and i dont feel like spending a lot of money to buy some 2 or 0 ga. do you think that would be ok

I don't know where you guys are buying your wire, but I got Stinger HPM 1/0 gauge (red for power, black for ground) off of eBay for $2.60 per foot. I got 20 feet of red and 3 of black. Nice and cheap. Hell even CarDomain sells it for $2.95/ft. :thumb:
 
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