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1G MMCd log

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dc320

10+ Year Contributor
89
5
Dec 22, 2011
CARMEL, New York
Hey guys, so i am still experience the studder/bucking issue. I have finally gotten a datalogger with MMCd 1.8 on it. I ran a log today for the first time, which of course the car shows off and runs the best it ever has since i have owned it. Here is my log, if anyone that knows what numbers i should have can take a look. I dont know what i should run for everything but from what i see, i cant narrow down the issue.
 

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Changed plugs, gapped .28 iirc, i did this over the summer. Changed wires and coil pack. Now, i rarely go WOT if ever, it is usually coming onto throttle no matter what rpm.

The damn car though ran pretty good when logging today and only did it once pulling out of a stop sign, and no i didnt let off to early LOL, i was moving for about 10 seconds when i started getting into driving throttle.
 
Yes COOL is coolant temp. I didnt look at the graph after i exported it, on the logger numbers are normal, average I would say is 200 degrees. I wonder why the numbers are different on the logger then the graphs
 
On the logger, FTRL, FTRM, AND FTRH all just say 100% for both test. First test time = 15:44.31to about 15:44.42 (lines 536-553). The second test it did it almost the entire time.

The second test was a shorter drive and i turned the logger on while driving so it cuts out the bits of me idling. Second test at 17:41.18 it did it the entire time up my road, i had to keep letting off and onto the throttle.
 
I dont see anything obvious (that log is hard to read on a phone). I will say that all your fuel trims being stuck at 100% means your stuck in open loop. Your coolant temp sensor reading 30 all the time could cause that. I would grab a dmm and start checking sensors voltages and resistance.
 
Thats alot of knock on lines 395-400 on that second log. It looks likes theres alot more knock throughout your second test time than there was on your first.
 
The temp gauge is a seperate sensor from the ecu coolant temp sensor. Id check the wiring at the thermostat housing. Theyre known to get brittle and break. Id also check your knock sensor. Feel the back of the sensor. If you feel gooey and sticky stuff dripping out or bare metal(sealant melted out) i would replace the sensor.

If you can record the logger while idling at operating temp post it. Lets make sure your idling correct and are going into closed loop
 
You have real high knock counts. Also your front o2 reads 2.5. Makes no sense. O2 sensor is .1v to 1v. Either your wiring is all messed up or this logger isnt working correctly.

Also tps is jumping around at idle goes from 8 to 11 percent back and forth
 
In MMCd the DSM's O2 sensor is O2-R. O2-F is used on V6's and just shows what's in that memoery location on a DSM, not anything meaningfull.

Nope logger doesnt show if its open or closed
 
O2-r for the most part is always pretty high in ypur log. .94v to 1.09 which is very rich. You positive your ect sensor is reading correct? If everything else is reading correct in the logs you posted maybe the coolant temp is right and your car is stuck in open loop and warm up mode (run very rich)
 
Could be a possibility, ECTS are cheap so i may just check the wires and get a new one. Yes, in the logger my temps read fine but then once it is exported the charts show those numbers so IDK what is up with that.

Yea car runs very rich, just trying to figure out 1. why and 2. if it is the cause of this sputter/bucking thing.
 
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