Master and Slave cylinder question.

[DJ23GSX]

Long story short my main question is what would cause the master cylinder to not be able to be adjusted far enough out to lock the valve causing the slave cylinder to lock up and not be able to push it back in by hand?

Long story:

I just recently put in an ACT2600 with a SB Kevlar disc and my tranny feels notchy now. It shifted perfect with the old worn out stock clutch so I'm leaning toward this being clutch related. This problem started right after the new clutch install. Here's a list of stuff I also did with the new clutch

Brand new OEM master and slave cylinders
Brand new OEM fork and pivot ball (yes I did shim it)
Brand new OEM throw out bearing
Flywheel was resurfaced and stepped by a reputable shop
Bled the piss out of the hydraulic system
Adjusted the master cylinder rod (its almost all the way out right now)
Double checked all the tranny bolts and they are all tight

What baffles me at this point is even with my master cylinder rod adjusted all the way out to its last thread I can still easily push the slave rod back in by hand which from what I've read isn't normal. I know with my old clutch setup if I was that far out on the master rod it would block the valve and I couldn't push the slave back in by hand. I feel like now I don't have the same amount of throw in the system and that is whats causing the notchy/dragging feel shifting through the gears. I also noticed that it appears I have a good quarter inch between the clutch fork and tranny housing when the clutch is fully pushed to the floor. The clutch fork does sit slightly towards the drivers side just like the vfaq suggests it should. There is no play in the clutch assembly. I'm kind of out of ideas as to how I can get more throw out of the system.

Any and all suggestions are welcomed.

Thanks

 

[Twinturbo120]

Honestly this sounds like air in the system. Did you bleed it properly? Just when you think you're done you're not .

 

[DJ23GSX]

Honestly this sounds like air in the system. Did you bleed it properly? Just when you think you're done you're not .

I did follow the Team RIP instructions on how to properly bleed the dsm clutch but I have also read a lot of threads saying how much of a pain it is to get all the air out of the system. Its easy enough to do so I'll give it another try. I guess air in the system could explain why once in a great while it will shift good. The pedal feels good its nice and firm and never feels spongy and catch's a couple inches off the floor like is supposed to.

Thanks