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Major Engine Bog! HELP!

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oplix

15+ Year Contributor
217
0
Mar 9, 2008
Zion, Illinois
Hi guys, my first question is does the Engine Check light go on when you first turn the key without starting the car? Reason I ask is because mine doesn't go on and I didn't notice this until today. It's really got me worried that someone purposely did this so that I wouldn't think the car was messed up when I bought it.

Ok here is my main problem. This also happened once before when I was coming up to a light but it went away after I turned probably half a minute later.

I was driving last night and everything was fine but I pushed it a little hard in second gear and all of a sudden it started bogging heavily. What I mean by that is that I lost most of the engine's power, it started rattling on idle and the idle jumped from normal to about 1.25k rpm. I thought it might be ok in the morning but I started it up today and the same thing is happening.

When I look at the engine while it's on idle, everything is shaking and I smell a strong gasoline smell coming from the engine which I never smelled before. Also, the cold air intake which I have on the car seems like it's vacuuming huge amounts of air at idle. I can literally hear it sucking the air like a vacuum.

One more thing to add, I was driving on the highway and out of nowhere a blown tire comes at my car and I drive right over it!. When I pulled over to check if everything was ok, I noticed a wire hanging loose from the flexpipe under my car. I have no idea what the wire is for and the car didn't do anything weird because of it.

My mechanic isn't available until saturday and I would really like to get some sort of an idea of what is causing this bogging. I also just changed the spark plugs like 2 weeks ago to NGK standards and my oil could use a change probably. I'm at about 4k miles since last changing it.

Thanks for any ideas guys!

PS I uploaded a small video of the engine noise
<object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/bd50YWJ57Gk&hl=en"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/bd50YWJ57Gk&hl=en" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object>
 
Sounds to me like it was ## O2 censor and that would cause the major decline in power other than that im not the best to explain thats what happened to my car and sounds like same thing although i could be mixing up the flex pipe sry if not much help just putting my 2cents in
 
Thanks for the feedback. My car started making a fartcan sound after the bog, did yours start to make a different sound as well?
 
No the car is NA. But I think you are right. The cable underneath the car that connects to one of the pipes of the exhaust IS the o2 sensor but then why would the car run fine for like 2 weeks after the o2 sensor wire got sliced?
 
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/oranos/Car/photo#5187318167668660146"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/oranos/R_0OY9DSF7I/AAAAAAAAAEo/313k628r5rE/s144/Pic-0100.jpg" /></a>

that's the wire i'm talking about
 
Check the brackets under the headers and see if anything loose that rattle could be a result of a few diff things but the simpleist and most hoped for is a broken exhuast bracket it could cause that rattle but that is kinda what it sounds like from the video If that isnt it then im baffled with that...The O2 censor is 100% a prob may not be the prob but any help i can be im trying :)
 
well my concern isn't the rattle really. It's the 90% loss of power. I can be flooring it in 1st gear and the rpm's will only slowly climb.

also, could you tell me if your check engine light is momentarily on when you turn your key before ignition?
 
ok I found another problem. I was looking at my intake cone which i guess is way too big for where it is (previous owner must have been idiot) and it looks like it made contact with a wire harness and burned off one or more of the wires inside. Could someone tell me what the wire harness is connected to?

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/oranos/Car/photo#5187335652480522178"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/oranos/R_0eStDSF8I/AAAAAAAAAFI/lXMAahTLGSA/s144/Pic-0101.jpg" /></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/oranos/Car/photo#5187335652480522194"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/oranos/R_0eStDSF9I/AAAAAAAAAFQ/AVBEHlFrIWk/s144/Pic-0102.jpg" /></a>
 
OK to answer the question that no one has answered for you. Yes the check engine light should come on at bulb check. Turn your key to on postion, if bulb check does not come one( all your warning lights should turn on), then turn it about halfway to turn over ( go very slowly) and all your bulbs should light up, if one does not you have a bulb out or if all do not turn on you have an electrical problem that your mechanic should fix unless you are very good with car and car electronics because you could really mess your car up. Check any and all vaccum hoses on your car or intake hoses as that sounds kinds like my car did when someone messed with my intake hose. Hope this helps

phirn

P.S. sorry if my grammar or spelling sucks I'm working on it
 
ok I found another problem. I was looking at my intake cone which i guess is way too big for where it is (previous owner must have been idiot) and it looks like it made contact with a wire harness and burned off one or more of the wires inside. Could someone tell me what the wire harness is connected to?

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/oranos/Car/photo#5187335652480522178"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/oranos/R_0eStDSF8I/AAAAAAAAAFI/lXMAahTLGSA/s144/Pic-0101.jpg" /></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/oranos/Car/photo#5187335652480522194"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/oranos/R_0eStDSF9I/AAAAAAAAAFQ/AVBEHlFrIWk/s144/Pic-0102.jpg" /></a>


The top pic is of your ECU.

The Bottom pic is of the upper ECU connector harness that is partially melted. The wires inside go to all the sensors, guages, ect. throughout the vehicle. You will need to closly inspect this burned area for individual wire damage, resolder all broken wires & tape up/heat shrink the missing wire insulation.
 
I was looking at my intake cone which i guess is way too big for where it is (previous owner must have been idiot) and it looks like it made contact with a wire harness and burned off one or more of the wires inside.

Also, I am not seeing how an intake cone filter could produce any heat, much less enough heat to melt a plastic harness cover. Are you sure it is not just worn from rubbing contact...? You will still need to reinsulate those bare wires you find....
 
Ok, I just went to Autozone because my mechanic was busy today and the guy did a quick CEL check and my car threw 9 codes!

P0352 - Ignition coil primary circuit condition - Coil number 2
P0351 - Ignition coil primary circuit condition - Coil number 1
P0300 - Cylinder misfire detected - Random cylinders
P0138 - H02S 12 circuit condition (Heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 2
P0140 - H02S 12 circuit condition (Heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 2
P0442 - EVAP (Evaporative Emission System) small leak/no flow condition
P0302 - Cylinder misfire detected-Cylinder number 2
P0303 - Cylinder misfire detected-Cylinder number 3
P0300

The causes for most of these seem to be :
1. Ignition system fault-spark plug(s), ignition wires, coil
2. Vacuum leak
3. Injector fault
4. High or low fuel pressure

So looking at these codes could anyone potentially narrow down the problem given the symptoms or could it possibly be any of the problems listed?
 
1) Get new spark plugs and make sure spark plugs wire to coil are in the correct order.
2) Do a boost least test.
3) And as I said before the reason you car is bogging down and the smell of gas fume coming from the exhaust is because the car is probably running too rich.
 
well my car isn't turbo so no need for boost leak hehe. I bought new spark plugs about 2 weeks ago like i said in the original post but I do think that the ####ed up rear O2 sensor is what's causing this because the guy at Autozone said if it's been out for like 1-2 weeks it will cause the car to run more and more rich which will eventually lead to misfires.
 
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