Superman
15+ Year Contributor
- 257
- 11
- Feb 13, 2004
-
New York,
New York
Just wanted to show you guys some work I did on my daily driver. My drag racing project is still ongoing, but it has been delayed due to some conflicts. It is not dead by any means. I will have some updates on that soon.
One day while driving I was coming to a stop light, when I hit the brakes, I recognized that my brakes were not working. I pulled over to find a puddle of brake fluid by the rear tires. It looks like my brake lines were so rusty they finally broke. I was glad it did not break on the highway at speeds. I was able to drive back home using the trans and e Brake to slow the car down. When I got it home and got it in the air, I saw that all the brake lines including the fuel lines were badly rusted. It was only a matter of time before something else broke. So I decided to change all the lines. Instead of cutting the bad line out and patching with new line, I decided to replace the entire line from the front back. I know, I know, I should have just patched it. It would have been easier and cheaper; but, for some reason I wanted to change everything to be safe. Especially because sometimes I take the car around my local road course. I could not find any factory hard lines for sale, then I came across, classic tubing, they mainly sell brake lines for classic cars; however, they do remanufacture 1g and 2g brake and fuel lines. These were pre-bent OEM lines in stainless steel (they will never rust again). Unfortunately, you can't just buy one brake line; you must buy the entire kit which includes the front lines as well. It was costly, but I order all the lines. I also picked up all the OEM fuel lines, also pre-bent in stainless steel (these you can buy one by one). Let me first say this was a nightmare install. I tried to get around it, but I had to drop both sub frames. Taking the old lines off was a nightmare. Rusty bolts broken clamps. It was really bad under there. Got everything out. Ended up spending more than I wanted repair things I found along the way. Here are just some of the pics. I also decided to install stuff I was planning on installing over the winter. Since I had the car apart I figured why not do it now.
Front sub frame out.
These are the OEM lines out the box. This was a very difficult install you have to do a bit of bending to get these lines to work. But the stainless steel is very forgiving and will not kink easily, I just had to take my time. I will take some time to get the lines to sit properly. The shipping bends they put in the lines take some work to get out.
This is how the lines look installed.
Couldn't get the factor high pressure hose to go back on. I had to make the line out of high pressure Teflon hose. My first time working with Teflon. Very easy to put together. Just follow all the instructions.
I needed a proper overflow tank so I bought this from one of the DSM fabricators. Looks great. Fitment and functionality is spot on. I recommend this unit to anyone looking for a good Overflow.
My oil pressure sender was acting up so I decided to add a new one with a VEI gauge.
I remote mounted the sender in the location where the washer fluid would be.
Also added an external oil cooler. This will help me when I hit the road courses. Has a small fan attached to it as well.
Added this power steering cooler I got off eBay. I was boiling the power steering fluid the last time I went to the track. Installed it on the passenger side area where the side mount used to be.
Add a new oil pan. I was going to use it on the drag car but I hear it doesn't work well with ARP main bolts. So I decided to install it. Should help when road racing.
Added oil temp sender to work with VEI gauges.
For the life of me I could not get the factor gas filter to screw on so I decided to upgrade to a RCI fuel filter. This is a high quality unit. Comes with 100 micron stainless steel filter. I use Teflon braided lines to install the filter.
New radiator with shroud and fans.
One day while driving I was coming to a stop light, when I hit the brakes, I recognized that my brakes were not working. I pulled over to find a puddle of brake fluid by the rear tires. It looks like my brake lines were so rusty they finally broke. I was glad it did not break on the highway at speeds. I was able to drive back home using the trans and e Brake to slow the car down. When I got it home and got it in the air, I saw that all the brake lines including the fuel lines were badly rusted. It was only a matter of time before something else broke. So I decided to change all the lines. Instead of cutting the bad line out and patching with new line, I decided to replace the entire line from the front back. I know, I know, I should have just patched it. It would have been easier and cheaper; but, for some reason I wanted to change everything to be safe. Especially because sometimes I take the car around my local road course. I could not find any factory hard lines for sale, then I came across, classic tubing, they mainly sell brake lines for classic cars; however, they do remanufacture 1g and 2g brake and fuel lines. These were pre-bent OEM lines in stainless steel (they will never rust again). Unfortunately, you can't just buy one brake line; you must buy the entire kit which includes the front lines as well. It was costly, but I order all the lines. I also picked up all the OEM fuel lines, also pre-bent in stainless steel (these you can buy one by one). Let me first say this was a nightmare install. I tried to get around it, but I had to drop both sub frames. Taking the old lines off was a nightmare. Rusty bolts broken clamps. It was really bad under there. Got everything out. Ended up spending more than I wanted repair things I found along the way. Here are just some of the pics. I also decided to install stuff I was planning on installing over the winter. Since I had the car apart I figured why not do it now.
Front sub frame out.
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These are the OEM lines out the box. This was a very difficult install you have to do a bit of bending to get these lines to work. But the stainless steel is very forgiving and will not kink easily, I just had to take my time. I will take some time to get the lines to sit properly. The shipping bends they put in the lines take some work to get out.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
This is how the lines look installed.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Couldn't get the factor high pressure hose to go back on. I had to make the line out of high pressure Teflon hose. My first time working with Teflon. Very easy to put together. Just follow all the instructions.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I needed a proper overflow tank so I bought this from one of the DSM fabricators. Looks great. Fitment and functionality is spot on. I recommend this unit to anyone looking for a good Overflow.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
My oil pressure sender was acting up so I decided to add a new one with a VEI gauge.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I remote mounted the sender in the location where the washer fluid would be.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Also added an external oil cooler. This will help me when I hit the road courses. Has a small fan attached to it as well.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Added this power steering cooler I got off eBay. I was boiling the power steering fluid the last time I went to the track. Installed it on the passenger side area where the side mount used to be.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Add a new oil pan. I was going to use it on the drag car but I hear it doesn't work well with ARP main bolts. So I decided to install it. Should help when road racing.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Added oil temp sender to work with VEI gauges.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
For the life of me I could not get the factor gas filter to screw on so I decided to upgrade to a RCI fuel filter. This is a high quality unit. Comes with 100 micron stainless steel filter. I use Teflon braided lines to install the filter.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
New radiator with shroud and fans.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
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