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Machine shop prices - whats the norm ?

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Nextlevelperf

Probationary Member
22
1
Feb 18, 2006
Norfolk, Virginia
Ok I can buy a 6 bolt (nt) block and crank for $675 shipped from a machine shop that has :

BLOCK
Thermal/Steel shot cleaned
Magnafluxed for cracks
Bored & finish honed .040 (1.00mm)
Deck surfaced
NEW ARP Main Studs installed
Mains line honed

CRANK
cleaned and magnufluxed
machined to .010-.010
seal areas are also machined to insure proper oil sealing. (still uses stock seals)
balanced within .15 grams
oil holes are chamfered
micro-polished

Or I can buy a complete 6 bolt engine (nt) for $275 with fairly low miles from a sonata (probably not abused). This way I get all the extras I need too like the head and oil pan etc.
How much can I expect to do the above machine work on this motor ?
Whats the better deal ?
 
You will spend over $400 at a machine shop. I worked at one for 5 years, rebuilt over 180 motor's and I can tell you alone that machining the crank, polishing and balancing it will run upwards of $300. Cleaning and boring of the block is another $100 depending on condition. That's not counting, ARP's line honing and resurfacing. I would go with the block and crank. It is a great deal. What are you going to use it for/put it in?
 
I work in a machine shop owned by my uncle in NY.If you need machine work done for a reasonable rate please let me know.My labor rate for block rebuilds are $500 + parts.
If you just need a basic rebuild with oem parts I can usually do a complete rebuild for under $1,000.Depending on the condition of the motor.
 
Geez we use to check for leaks, bore, line bored, deck and hot tank for $265. Big difference from Iowa to NY though.
 
If you are just set on finding a 6 bolt N/T motor I have on at the shop that I could let you have for pretty cheap.If your looking to just get yourself a new motor for a daily driver your best bet is to locate a factory sealed motor with low mileage.If this motor is going to be used for a street/strip motor than I'd say stay away from the N/A motors,as they are the same aside from the oil squirters that are in the Turbo motors.On the street you'll need those.I've heard guys using the N/A motors for drag applications but I have never used one and i don't plan on it.
If you buy that block that has been bored than you'll have to use aftermarket pistons.If you buy yourself a motor and are just looking to have the block cleaned up and slap some new parts in it like I said I can do all the labor for $500.
 
95blackGsTurbo said:
Geez we use to check for leaks, bore, line bored, deck and hot tank for $265. Big difference from Iowa to NY though.
Yeah,I guess your right.I know a guy that said in Florida he used to get basic rebuilds for $300.However,I'm talking $500 for a complete rebuild,gaskets included.Are you taking into account those sorts of things.We're a bit less expensive than some of the local shops.On top of that we fix a lot of there mistakes.And no,I'm not naming names,:)
 
The last 6 bolt I built cost me around $650 for the machine work, including assembly of the head. It was my first build so I dont know what the avg prices are.
I plan to use ross 8.5, eagle rods, tri metal bearings, arps, crower springs/ ti retainers, bronze guides, ss swirl valves (std size), 3g lifters, metal gaskets.
How much should it cost me to have the guides installed, and a 3 angle valve job ?
What excatly is lapping, do I do it before or after asembly, and how much $$ ?

btw - I just bought a 7bolt with 18k on a rebuild from a wreck for 600 to use in the meantime ;) (just bought the car for $1500 with a hole in the #4 piston. Even came with a greddy fmic !!)

Thanks!!
 
And yes I do my builds myself, thats the fun part.... I just need a good machine shop to prep the block, etc :)
 
My only DSM build cost me 645 for everything except assembly. I did that myself, oh and it ran on the first try (sort of). It sat for two years between assembly and putting it in the car also. Either I am good or the machine shop did one hell of a job.
 
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