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LS-1 MAF translator vs ARC-2/ VPC

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My translator is on its way and I'm torn between the 3" or the
3.5". Now I talked to a guy thats been building Grand Nationals
for years and says DON'T get the 3" 'cause it's crap. But I noticed
it would be easier to acquire a 3" and easier to install. Can anyone
say which would be better or are they going to perform about the same?
 
Vince, have you read the whole thread yet?

This question has been answered many times over. The 3" sensor is NOT crap. It made a significant difference in my own car, and flows more than either the 1g OR 2g mas, by quite a bit.

Unless you're running some huge turbo with bigger than a 3" inlet (read: much bigger than a 50-trim), I'd get the 3" for ease of install.
 
From what i have read there isnt either one of them crap, if you can get a 3 1/2" then get it, if you can only find a 3" then get that one. The way i see it if you get the 3 1/2 now and you upgrade to a bigger turbo later then it would be just that much less work. Obviously if it works with either one of them equally, then bigger is always gonna be better, it has less restriction. But before i get hammered for saying that, bigger is not always better in all instances. I just believe in this instance i would do it.
 
I'm pretty sure he meant it as in failure of the sensor. Everytime I ask him he's very quick to say "DONT GET THE 3" MAS", so I was looking for everyone's opinion.
 
I'm pretty sure they've been using this same sensor for the other MAF Translator's for some time now. I'll have to wait for Mike to make another post on that, but IIRC they've been tested and proven on quite a few cars. It's an OEM sensor, used in many different cars, I'm quite sure the reliability of the sensor is good seeing as how long it's been in service.
 
The 3" MAF is a very popular unit for GM....reliability and availability are not an issue. The application list is posted here among other places. http://www.bailey-eng.com/mafs.txt

On the GN's I usually recommend 3.5" sensors for 12.0 and faster cars, at that power level there is a detectable difference in spool and a slight difference in hp. As you get faster the difference is greater.

For stock turbo cars and the 16G, I think the 3" is fine. It's no big deal to start with a 3" especially since they can be had for a song on ebay (apparently). You can easily sell/trade the 3" stuff as you upgrade the rest of your combination. The translator is compatible with both MAFs (3" and 3.5") with this in mind. :)

There is, however absolutely no down-side to getting the 3.5" for even a stock car. If you find a good deal on one, don't hesitate a second (or someone else will grab it...)

Hope this helps

BobTurbo
 
Has anyone used a 3.5 MAF in the blow through setup? If so, what is the size of you intercooler piping?

For me, as I have a tial BOV, I have to use the blow through setup (as the tial only vents into the atmosphere) and I was going to use the 3 inch MAF for ease of plumbing. My piping is 2.5 inches so if I were to use a 3.5 MAF I would need two reducers going from 3.5 to 2.5. I am not even sure if they exist. Any insight will be appreciated.
 
I ordered mine monday and got an email saying they should ship the unit (2G) today, however, watching the site, it hasn't shipped yet...
 
OK well Ive actually read this trechurous thread two complete times OMG and the answer to my questions have still not been answered. I don't feel like searching now but someone posted one and it never got answered. I have a 2G mas on my car currently, so the question being directed towards Mike/Bob, shoudl someone in my poistion be getting the 2G unit or the 1G unit and try to find another 1G plug and put it back to how it used to be? Obviously it would be easier to install the 2G unit now, but would I encounter any problems that you know about? Also I assume along with the instructions are how we hook it up and exactly what eachi switch is for? I to have an afc and 2G maf already and will be getting this simpy for less restriction and load based tuning as oppossed to constant rpm tuning from the afc... If the instructions do not tell what each is for then can you clarify for me and the few others that have asked recently, what exactly are the rpm wires and associated wires for? If we do not hook them up you said there woudl be no problems but later told everyone to hook them up thanks.

I also want to thank you guys for posting and introducing this tuff to the site. ive been reading this since the day it came up and watching it grow and I appreciate all the answers and honesty you guys have put forth in this thread alone.


Austin
 
Ok,

You need a 1G unit with a 2G connector. It can be done.... :)

(or a 2G unit with 1G software, same difference)

Give Mike at Ramchargers a call and he'll work with you.

The trigger wire (purple) activates the AUX WOT fueling adjustment. You can connect it to a pressure switch or whatever. It can add fuel for a small dry NOS shot, or remove fuel for alky/propane injection.

The white wire is for a tach signal. Using RPM and MAF data the unit is able to estimate boost and select the MID or WOT dial accordingly. Also there is Contoured fuel mode when the AUX WOT is enabled the fuel is modified appropriately to compensate for a 'fixed flow' fuel modifier (which pretty much describes most N2O or alky situations)

If the tach signal is not connected, the unit runs in 'backup' mode (works just fine this way) the selection of MID or WOT is based on flow only, and contoured fuel doesn't 'contour'. for those doing very little WOT tuning with the unit, and not using contoured fuel. The tach signal can be left disconnected with no ill effects.

HTH

Bob
 
So we can use the gm maf sensor as blow through? is so damn this is a revolution, why has nobody ever seen this before? This is a dumb question, why couldnt we use the stock maf sensor as a blowthru? Prob cause it would suck honeycombs into intake and into engine huh?
 
Stock MAF can only flow 390CFM on a flowbench. It's too restrictive and you would overrun it in a blow through application.

"suck the honeycombs into the engine"

ahahahahah
 
based on the way the stocker "counts" the amount of air that goes past it, it cannot be used in blowthrough. You cannot develop the correct vortices for the sensor to read.
 
Everyone should be running this without knock if its tuned right, and it wont help with fuel cut unless you have larger injectors, just like AFC. The MAFt isn't going to "cause" any knock or fuel cut itself... ;)
 
I'm only at 325 g/sec now, so I'll be waiting a bit longer, until I get over ~350. I dont need to be using one to make the above statement, this isnt rocket science. ;)
 
I tuned my car a few nights ago down to a max knock count of 7 at a boost pressure that starts at 16 and creeps to 20 at the end of every gear. This puts my injector duty cycle at about 86% max. at a base fuel pressure with (the vacuum line connected to the AFPR) at 38 psi on 650cc injectors. I expect my boost pressure to creep less in warmer weather, so I can set my boost to a steady 20 psi and hopefully see knock counts below 15.

Final verdict on the translator is....outstanding! You can't beat it for the money. It gives you all the tuning and airflow capabilities of a VPC at a fifth of the cost.
 
Originally posted by 95GSXracer
I'm only at 325 g/sec now, so I'll be waiting a bit longer, until I get over ~350. I dont need to be using one to make the above statement, this isnt rocket science. ;)

I don't necessarily agree. My car is much less modified than yours, I'm using this as an alternative for the 2G MAS and SAFC in a 1G. The two people I know with this MAF are having these issues. There haven't been positive reviews except "Dude check out the sound!" I already own the setup, it's on the bench while I modify my aircan and put in 550's. I would like to hear a few endorsements and successful tuning stories.
 
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