LS-1 MAF translator vs ARC-2/ VPC

[RedlinedTSi]

I've got a quick tuning question. In the instructions with the translator it talks about tuning according to the fuel trims. I have a pocketlogger so I know what it's talking about, but I was wanting to know do I set the MID knob according to my Low or Mid fuel trims. My Low trim is at 126 and my Mid trim is at 100, so I wasn't sure which way to go. Thanks.

 

[HighPSI TSi Guy]

Originally posted by QuickSilverGSX9
Good ol Formz, thanks bud. (QuicksilverGSX from MachV) So, I can simply disconnect them, or I've heard of people putting catch cans (or filters?), I guess, for both? So..I guess all that matters now is either a shorter straight 3" intake pipe, or the stock-looking 3" curved intake piping, any ideas?

you can disconnect them but you'll just have to remember to reconnect them for the emmissions test..

 

[DrZiplok]

Originally posted by RedlinedTSi
I've got a quick tuning question. In the instructions with the translator it talks about tuning according to the fuel trims. I have a pocketlogger so I know what it's talking about, but I was wanting to know do I set the MID knob according to my Low or Mid fuel trims. My Low trim is at 126 and my Mid trim is at 100, so I wasn't sure which way to go. Thanks.

Neither. Bump the IDLE setting up a notch or two to take care of the low-speed fuel trim.

The MID knob is for spool-up airflow; I haven't mastered it yet, but it definitely doesn't interact with the fuel trims to any noticeable degree.

 

[eclipsefwd]

I am planning on getting this but was wondering if it would be alright to sell my S-AFC 2 and just use the translator. I am planning on getting the T3/T4 turbo kit from rnr racing and running 660's. Will I be able to tune well enough with the translator or would you recommend using both. I know this has been discussed but I haven't seen a real concrete answer yet. Thanks alot.

 

[TheObiJuan]

transator can be used by itself and work great, however you can fine tune even more with the safc.

that is what i am doing.

 

[ATF 2GTalon]

Finally got my translator installed. It is sweet as hell. Mid throttle response is just awesome. I am having a problem when I am at idle and tap the throttle lightly, the rpms drop, and it feels like it wants to stall. Spool is definitely quicker. I used to only be able to get 1psi at 3500, and now I am hitting 8psi at 3000rpms. Full boost unfortunately has not changed much and depending on the gear I am still hitting 17psi at 3800rpms. Overall it was definitely worth it and it feels like I am driving a whole new car.

 

[QuickSilverGSX9]

As far as tuning ability with the MAFT is concerned, I need to lean out my car very badly. I got my car dyno'd at Altered Atmosphere on saturday, and I'm off the scale rich. Less then 10:1! However, this is mostly caused by the fact that I'm running a 255 HP with no AFPR. Duh. I was wondering if the MAFT would even be able to help me with this problem, or should I go for the AFPR first? Because I don't understand how it could adjust the fuel if the fuel pressure regulator is being over run, or am I missing something? Thanks everyone, in advance.
-Bill

 

[Motohead1]

Got things mooved to the inside now. here are some pics. http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290477805 Hate image station all you want for having to log in to veiw but its quick to load

 

[Formz]

Originally posted by Motohead1
Got things mooved to the inside now. here are some pics. http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290477805 Hate image station all you want for having to log in to veiw but its quick to load

Did you just cut the harness and lengthen the wires to put the controller into the cockpit? I thought there were some interference issues you had to be worried about.

 

[Motohead1]

Originally posted by Formz


Did you just cut the harness and lengthen the wires to put the controller into the cockpit? I thought there were some interference issues you had to be worried about.

I just lenthend the harness as if i have a problem in the future its easyer to diognose. such things as caps and all. I was gonna use some sheilded wire but by the way i routed it there seems to be no problems at all and it performs normally. I also rapt a dummy wire around the bundle to act as a poor mans shielding. Its also my aux wire if i ever add water or nitrous.

 

[Formz]

Very nice, would it be possible to take some pictures of your air filter setup without it being covered? Thanks!

 

[Motohead1]

Its just a 3"outlet 6"deep reusable AEM filter. Very easy to find. and its clamped right on the GM mas.

 

[Formz]

ahh ok, cool

 

[Kevin Jewer]

Originally posted by QuickSilverGSX9
As far as tuning ability with the MAFT is concerned, I need to lean out my car very badly. I got my car dyno'd at Altered Atmosphere on saturday, and I'm off the scale rich. Less then 10:1! However, this is mostly caused by the fact that I'm running a 255 HP with no AFPR. Duh. I was wondering if the MAFT would even be able to help me with this problem, or should I go for the AFPR first? Because I don't understand how it could adjust the fuel if the fuel pressure regulator is being over run, or am I missing something? Thanks everyone, in advance.
-Bill

If you are running 10:1 at WOT, the FPR has very little to do with that. That will cure a rich idle/cruise mixture though. FOr AF ratio at WOT, you need to do some tuning with the MAFT, AFC, or whatever you are using to tune.

 

[DrZiplok]

Just updating, since I've been so blessed with good suggestions.

Had a couple of small intake leaks; upgraded to a larger sidemount and now I have a leak sufficiently large that my poor little compressor can't keep up with it. I can't quite justify buying a "real" compressor yet, so this will have to wait.

However, I managed some better results tonight:

Originally posted by Ramchargers

I might go back to the BASE 3 and remove fuel with the other controls.
...
If you have knock that is real knock there is only two ways to get rid of it, reduce boost or reduce timing. I would reduce the base timing a couple degrees and work from there you can alyways add it back.

Thanks for the suggestions; I did indeed go back to BASE 3 (510s), but ended up adding more WOT fuel. I also pulled the base timing back to about half (having just realised that I don't actually know what the two BTDC marks on the legend are).

Pulling from 3000 to redline the engine's not quite smooth; it staggers occasionally from what I am assuming is a bit too much fuel (plugs @ 0.28 and looking good). However, it's not knocking. If I take out any fuel with the AFC, it smoothens up a bit but starts to knock.

I can still induce tip-in knock, but it requires a very sudden throttle input in the 3500-5000 range, and it's much less severe. Back-off surge is still there in low gears suggesting that I still have too much basic fuel, but it's manageable for now.

On the whole, I'm pretty happy with this; the MAFT way of tuning is taking a bit to get my head around (and I'm still not sure what effects the MID control has in my application) but it has been an enormous improvement over the hacked 1G MAF.

I'm going to keep following this thread, but I'll move any further discussion over to the Yahoo! group, since it may be a bit more manageable than a 23-page thread here.

Again, many thanks for all the help and suggestions. If you want to know how my water injection plans work out, stay tuned.

 

[pilotleston]

Originally posted by DrZiplok
I'm going to keep following this thread, but I'll move any further discussion over to the Yahoo! group, since it may be a bit more manageable than a 23-page thread here.

Which Yahoo groups, specifically?

 

[TheObiJuan]

this group.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dsmtranslator/

 

[natedogg]

I'd like to caution everyone that if you are tuning with the MAF translator, make sure you are using some kind of logging tool. This translator flows a lot more air w/o hitting fuel cut, so you need to be monitoring engine knock. When I was tuning I noticed that the car felt really good and really fast even while getting 30+ counts of knock. Meaning the butt dyno isn't going to do it for you. Since then I have tuned it down to 22 counts max and am confident that I can bring it down below 10.

Another good thing to keep an eye on if you have the new version of pocketlogger is the Inj. duty cycle. When I first started tuning the D/C was maxxing around 65%. Which apparently wasn't enough fuel with my 650's and a 16g at 17 psi because my knock counts were sky high. As I richened things up with the translator in subsequent runs I watched the D/C go up and the knock counts go down. Try not to tune above a 90% D/C though because anything above this means the injector is pretty much open 100% of the time.

One more thing I noticed was that setting the MID setting richer got rid of just as much if not more knock than a richer WOT setting. This may have something to do with a turbocharged car needing a little extra "tip-in" fuel during the transition between closed-loop cruising and open-loop WOT.

All that being said, so far I am very pleased with the translator. As long as I am able to tune out the rest of my knock in the next few days, I will have nothing but good things to say about it. Just like any type of fuel control, it doesn't happen magically on its own. You have to take your time tuning it with the correct tools if you want it to run perfect.

 

[jdk906s]

Originally posted by QuickSilverGSX9
As far as tuning ability with the MAFT is concerned, I need to lean out my car very badly. I got my car dyno'd at Altered Atmosphere on saturday, and I'm off the scale rich. Less then 10:1! However, this is mostly caused by the fact that I'm running a 255 HP with no AFPR. Duh. I was wondering if the MAFT would even be able to help me with this problem, or should I go for the AFPR first? Because I don't understand how it could adjust the fuel if the fuel pressure regulator is being over run, or am I missing something? Thanks everyone, in advance.
-Bill

Get your base fuel pressure under control first, or you'll never be able to tune it in correctly.

 

[FastRthenU]

Do you think its a must to have a S-AFC in conjunction with the Translator for tuning? Can you tune very good with just the translator??

 

[peregrine]

Originally posted by FastRthenU
Do you think its a must to have a S-AFC in conjunction with the Translator for tuning? Can you tune very good with just the translator??

read the whole thread!!! this question has been answered!!!

 

[Victory]

Hey Guys,

We've taken delivery of three 1G translators and one 2G. The 2G is spoken for, but if anyone is looking for the 1G version, give us a call.

Look forward to serving you,

Victory Performance Equipment
www.victoryperformance.com

 

[FastRthenU]

I have read the whole thread. They said that you dont need it, but it would be good for fine tuning. But that was before ppl bought it, and had to tune it. SO i want to know from the ppl that have bought it and have had some experiance with it.

 

[Motohead1]

Originally posted by FastRthenU
I have read the whole thread. They said that you dont need it, but it would be good for fine tuning. But that was before ppl bought it, and had to tune it. SO i want to know from the ppl that have bought it and have had some experiance with it.

IF ya have a SAFC already then use it also with the translator. If not just get the translator. Then maby get a safc. Personaly I see no need for a SAFC at this point with my mods. You can tune the car no prob with just a translator.

 

[dsmturboawd]

installed this and i started my car and the engine is idling at 900rpms, but it sounds like its really struggling. i rev it up and it hesitates a bit then it gets going. when i let off the throttle, it bogs down to 200rpm, then sorta goes back

the only thing i have to go off is my boost gauge. the vaccum at idle used to be ~22, now its 15. i plugged in all the vaccum lines. the vaccum lines that used to be plugged into the intake after the mas are now plugged in before the turbo and after the cone. what could it be?!