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LS-1 MAF translator vs ARC-2/ VPC

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No, you are right I just did not want ot be the first to say it. When I was using the AFC on my auto car I ran into that very problem on a regular basis. Wrong fuel at the wrong time. Now don't get me wrong the AFC is a great tool and works well but like everything has some shortcomings. We stock 2.5" to 3" "turbo" hose adaptors that will handle boost. We also have many other sizes from 2" to 4" 3" to 3.5" should be popular too. We also stock very nice stainless steel t-bolt clamps. Call the guys toll free at 888 293 7267 for prices. For the record we will not be offering a Non-Adjustable version. It would not affect the selling price and we would still need the current version for most users. IMO it is already quite inexpensive for what it does.

Mike Licht
 
Originally posted by Ramchargers
IMO it is already quite inexpensive for what it does.

Mike Licht

Agreed. TOTalon, you should appreciate the price. NOTHING gives this level of performance at this low price. AND with flexibility in how you set it up. Ever heard the phrase "Don't look a gift horse in the mouth?"

Dave Peter
 
Originally posted by GVR-4


Agreed. TOTalon, you should appreciate the price.

Take it easy man. I already have DSMLink which is all I will most likely ever need in terms of tuning. I really like the idea of getting rid of my MAS, but at $200 just for that I dont know if I can justify it. Im not trying to knock the translator in any way, in fact I think it is an excellent product.
 
You're missing a few important points. First off, the AFC isnt the only tuning tool available. I would not use the adjustments on the translator, because I have DSMLink, which is a much more precise way to alter fuel delivery. When you can directly adjust fuel delivery in the ECU, tweaking the delivery by adjusting airflow is just going to confuse you when you try to tune the ECU based on datalogs. If you are trying to fool the stock ECU, the adjustments, and clamping on the airmeter is useful. But if you already have all of this taken care of, you simply want to know airflow as accurately as possible.
Secondly, the TPS problem is the reason many people have switched to using a MAP sensor instead of TPS with the AFC.

That said, its not worth doing for a number of reasons. When the base unit is already as low of a price as it is, it doesnt make sense to make a slightly cheaper one for a few people. The decreased component cost would be offset partially at least by the increased cost due to smaller production volume.

Brad

Originally posted by DCJ98GST
I would not want a translator without adjustments and here is why:

It seems to me that the fuel adjustments on the translator are superior to the SAFC. The bad thing about the SAFC is that it has throttle based adjustments that is not always very acurate. Here is an example:

Say you have just an S-AFC and let's pretend that you have a laggy turbo, where boost begins at 3400 rpm in 4th gear. So what happens, if you are driving around in traffic at around 2800rpm and mash the throttle? The SAFC sees that you are at WOT and kicks over to the high fuel map (since it's basing its map on TPS) and begins dumping fuel despite the fact that the car hasn't begun making boost yet. So, the car now runs shitty for 600 rpms because it is rich, and bogs from the overrich condition until the car hits boost. This over rich condition will make the turbo lag seem even greater. :(

The translator fuel adjustments are based on actual air flow not Throttle postion and should eliminate this problem.

The more responsive spool time may not just be because of the increased flow but also proper fuel mixture at the lower rpms! :thumb:

The translator should be used in conjunction with the S-AFC for fine tuning, but the bulk of the tuning should be done with the translator.

I have tried to read/skim all of the posts in this and the other threads, and if I am wrong please tell me. :D
 
I don't see any savigs for Ramcharges just from removing couple components from the circuit board .

The reason is that it becomes a new product that neds to be tested and most likely he would need to install jumper wires instead on those switches . also change to program in the ROM .

So what . He would remove $2 swithches ( that would be like $10 less ) , but then needs to insatll a jumper so that's like $.01 ( it still counts as an expence ) . Also the time that takes to test it out to make shure there is no problems from the changes ,etc...


Any way . What ever foats your boat . You don't want to spend $200 for it , fine with us ;) one more for one of us ( J/k).


P.S. I work for one of the major Fire Alarm Company in USA . Now we are owned by honeywell , and We need to cut costs like you would not belive ( Blod sucking Honywell , the CEO gets 2.3 billion contract , and he tells us that he can't give us a stupid $.50 raize . Thank you ) . I work for Fire Lite / Notifier , and i was in one of the meatings that they were talking about changint to more expencive diode ( cosue the ones that we were using , was more then 50% failure rate ) . A $.01 per doide adds up really quick to $1000 b4 you know it .



What I'm saying is if there were any changes to the unit to make it non adjustibly , the price might be $10 less . That's not really worth the trouble .

BTW i have the files on my KAZZA account .
"GM MAF on dsm" or " MAF.AVI "
"GM-maf in DSM-01" or "GM-01.jpg"
"GM-maf in DSM-02" or "GM-02.jpg"
"GM-maf in DSM-03" or "GM-03.jpg"
"GM-maf in DSM-04" or "GM-04.jpg"
 
hmm, would the excessive heat fromt he engine hurt the MAF in anyway...i paln on mounting mine on the rubber UICP hose btwn the UICP and TB. anyone forsee any problems?
 
Ok got a few things done today one of them not being sameriing the translator in the cockpit.:rolleyes: Only resone i didnt is cause I was having a slight problem well not problem just an eregularity with the instructions. I called Mike 5 or 6 times today. LOL Great guy by the way.:thumb: and seeing as the 90-91 1/2 cam angle sensor is a little difrent. useing the black wire off it for an RPM sourse wont work as its a ground on the 90 CAS. so after staring at the wire diagram this morning I knew itt was either the yellow or white wire that needed to be used. so i took a Swag at it (after trying both) and came to the conclusion that ya need to tap the white wire. Mike will speak more on this maby tomorrow or monday. But theres no need for alarm the unit will still work with the backups built into it were it will be fine. Only thing in question now is my green light is still dimmly lit at idle. but the unit seems to be working and fueling perfectly. Anyway i am going to the track tonight to see what i can do on 93octain. ;) Mike at ramchargers gets a big:thumb: for customer service.:D
 
Originally posted by TsiArt01
BTW i have the files on my KAZZA account .
"GM MAF on dsm" or " MAF.AVI "
"GM-maf in DSM-01" or "GM-01.jpg"
"GM-maf in DSM-02" or "GM-02.jpg"
"GM-maf in DSM-03" or "GM-03.jpg"
"GM-maf in DSM-04" or "GM-04.jpg"


I can't find these damn things at all.....and i still can't get any of the videos on this thread to play............send help.....
 
Originally posted by pimpngear



I can't find these damn things at all.....and i still can't get any of the videos on this thread to play............send help.....

You didn't download the DIVX codec, did you? :rolleyes: :p

Click here for the DIVX plugin ---> DIVX. It's free. If it's still not working, download the new media player from microsoft.
 
Wow, this thread is getting really long...

I'm interested in running a blow through setup with the translator, but I'm concerned with the fuel adjustments that will be made when intake temperatures go up due to intercooler heatsoak.

Say everything is working fine and tuned correctly on a blow through setup, then the intercooler heat soaks. When the intake temps go up, the translator will tell the ECU to give less fuel, right? Wouldn't the car need more fuel at the same boost level at increased temperature to prevent knock?
 
Is it going to be possible to still use my aftermarket intake with a blow through setup? Is there an adapter to connect the intake end directly to the filter? I just don't want to buy a new intake if I don't have to. Also will the small amount of oil in the intercooler piping affect the new maf?
 
Originally posted by TsiArt01

What I'm saying is if there were any changes to the unit to make it non adjustibly , the price might be $10 less . That's not really worth the trouble .

I dont want to get this thread off topic, but my point is this. For things such as this, youre not really paying for the hardware, that is to say the wiring and other electrical components. You are paying for the intellectual effort that went into designing it, and more important the functionality. The monetary difference may be only $10, but in terms of functionality a translator that does not have a tuning feature may only be worth say $125 (thats a random guess).

Once again, Im not trying to bash the product or tell you how to do your job, Im just making a suggestion.
 
I have read through nearly this whole thread and I find it really interesting. Even though I just purchased a 2g MAS for my 1g, I'm strongly considering this new option. I have a couple of questions that hopefully you can help me with and I hope they aren't repetative which I don't believe they are. First off, what are people using for the intake piping for the draw through system? I know Dejon doesn't have one up yet but I was thinking of getting they 'long' 3" intake and then putting a 90* elbow on it to go through the old UICP location and then mounting the MAS on the end of that with a K&N. I figure then it's out of the way and staying cooler than in the engine bay, what do you guys think? Secondly, How hard is tuning this? I haven't played around with the VPC at all, so I'm not familiar with what each knob adjusts. Thanks for any help.
 
It seems to me that mounting this thing in a draw through set-up is a breeze. You can even clamp the MAF to the stock rubber intake pipe, or connect it to any number of aftermarket intakes with a silicone coupler and a few clamps. I'm very interested to see Dejon's blow through pipe as I'm still undecided if i'll go draw or blow through.

As for the 'oil in intake' question...not an issue with a draw through configuration, obviously. In blow through, I'd think that oil on the sensor could cause problems, but that is easily solved by installing a catch can, valve cover breather, or a fuel filter in the breather tube. You should have that anyway.
 
Originally posted by DSM_Drew
In blow through, I'd think that oil on the sensor could cause problems, but that is easily solved by installing a catch can, valve cover breather, or a fuel filter in the breather tube. You should have that anyway.
I second that statment.......
RRE says...
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/instructions/catchcaninstructions.htm
You can buy theirs....or greeddys(greddy)the cheapest i've found theirs for is about 80.00.....But why dont you make one yourself...so far with stuff from Home Depot Motor Sports im just about done and I'm still under 10.00.....i'll start another tread once I compleate it, i'll throw up a parts list and instructions too...
sorry for going off topic...but read this whole thread...this question has been asked 3 times so far.
 
Let me just say the pull threw method works great and for those on a tight budget like myself being able to use the stock restrictive intake rubber hose thingy till i have time to make somthing is a nice feature. Also those wanting to do the blow threw purly for sound its unesasary. Trust me I thought i forgot to put the BOV recurc pipe back on. Its that loud. ;) I just droev to the track tonight only to find there was no street car TnT:cry: Only race cars. so on the way back i tuned the translator on the back roads. i know not the safest but I had a pasenger monitering the perameters. After about 4 good pulls i think i have it set perty close. I am running 15psi on 93 octain 14b ported 3" exhaust and 175,000 miles on the bottom end and tranny. OMG Before all the same except stock unhacked mas and stock injectors @ 16 psi and 100 octain it would run 12.8 all day @ 105mph (vid on DSM garage named jay12.8@106) anyway now it pulls stronger and cleaner with no knock at only 15psi and 93 octain! And fuelcut whats that.Also the tip in throttle responce is unbeleivable. Did i mention my O2s were @.90-.88 so its actually a little rich. I could probly run 16 psi on pump. gess i will find out soon. :thumb:
 
I don't have units in any of our stores yet. It will be a while. Our main office is in Plymouth if you just want to check one out you are wlcome to come there and we will show it to you and answer your questions. The salesmen in the stores have not even seen this yet so they likely can not answer your questions. Once we get caught up we will put some in and train the guys on the function of the unit. The performance difference between draw through and blow through in nothing in 90% of the cars out there right now. If you don't have a low 11 or faster car I would not expect much, if any gain. A small amount of oil and water vapor is always present under the hood the sensor can tolerate that. You need a breather or catch can in a blow through setup. If you fail a turbo and soak the inlet with oil you will likely have a failure. Any 3" 1G inlet pipe will work that I have seen so far. the stock pipe seems to work fine too. We are building units as fast as we can we should ship more next week. By the end of next week there should be close to 100 units in the field, we should have some good feedback then. Personally this is what I look for more than anything, what do the users have to say about the unit not the scientists. When we have that feed back we know if we did it right or we still have some work to do.
Mike Licht
 
so will it be ok to mount on the rubber UICP hose from the throttlebody?






Originally posted by Bigwilly6754
Were do I go about getting this whole kit im very interested!!!??? thanx everyone
try reading...you need to buy the translator from ramchargers, then buy a LT1 MAF or similar....READ THE POST
 
Originally posted by DSMraver


You didn't download the DIVX codec, did you? :rolleyes: :p

Click here for the DIVX plugin ---> DIVX. It's free. If it's still not working, download the new media player from microsoft.

The DIVX codec used to encode the movies is weird and nonstandard; neither 3ivx nor any of the other mainstream codecs I was able to get my hands on can play it.

If you're going to encode a movie for public distribution, it does make good sense to use a well-supported codec. Or a Mac.
 
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