The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Low PSI kill nitrous power???

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

GSGoinFast

DSM N/T Wiseman
DSM Wiseman
3,099
27
Nov 24, 2003
Chicago, Illinois
:mad: im very angry. i hit it tonight and.... nothing... maybe a little quicker rise to the rpms, but no initial kick i usually get. so of course my friend in his 3000GT pulls on me, and i know i would walk him if i had ANYTHING!! i havnt used it in a week or so... so i popped the trunk and checked the psi, and its slightly below 800psi. and... if i may quote colosus
Average pressure inside a nitrous tank is a maximum of 1200, and at a point of around 900 psi, the contents of the tank tends to become mostly compressed air and left over vapors of nitrous, which isn't pure nitrous, and will not provide the same effect when used.
so im hoping its the low psi that gave me no power... but is it typical to kill all the power?

if at 900psi its mostly vapor and air, how does a bottle heater help? raise the pressure of compressed air? will a bottle heater help me in this situation in the future(gonna buy one with next paycheck if it will)??

next question... when the bottle is closed, should the line retain the pressure or should it slowly fade out? cuz mine slowly fades to 0psi when the bottle is closed... am i leaking some somewhere?

last question, when i refill it(say at 800psi) do i have to let all the nitrous out, and then go refill it, or can i just give them the bottle with 800psi? will they top it off or will they empty it and refill it?

sorry, its a handful, but im confident dsmjim can handle it :thumb:

thanks in advanced, and sorry if its a nuisence.
 
i'm pretty sure a bottle heater will keep the bottle's psi pretty consistent. as for leaving nitrous in your lines, i really wouldn't do that, you should bleed the lines or purge if you're not gonna use it for a while. when you get refilled, they just put nitrous in there on top of what you already have, it's not like food that goes stale.
 
peanotation said:
i'm pretty sure a bottle heater will keep the bottle's psi pretty consistent. as for leaving nitrous in your lines, i really wouldn't do that, you should bleed the lines or purge if you're not gonna use it for a while. when you get refilled, they just put nitrous in there on top of what you already have, it's not like food that goes stale.

hmmm... well yes i was going to get a purge kit when i get payed tomarrow... well technically today. but what about what he said about how the remaining gas is mostly compressed air and nitrous vapor? and would that low psi be the cause of my complete lack of power(besides being non-turbo :p )?
 
GSGoinFast said:
:mad: im very angry. i hit it tonight and.... nothing... maybe a little quicker rise to the rpms, but no initial kick i usually get. so of course my friend in his 3000GT pulls on me, and i know i would walk him if i had ANYTHING!! i havnt used it in a week or so... so i popped the trunk and checked the psi, and its slightly below 800psi. and... if i may quote colosus so im hoping its the low psi that gave me no power... but is it typical to kill all the power?

Optimum pressure for nitrous is 1050-1100. That is where you want the bottle all the time when your spraying. If you turn on your heater and it wont get there then chances are your bottle is empty. Pull your bottle out, It weighs 14.5 lbs empty and 24.5 full. If your only 2lbs or so above dry weight (16.5 or 17lbs) then your pretty well empty. Though you can get 10lbs in the bottle you can really only use 8. When you get down there, take it back and have it refilled.

I found once my bottle started getting under 6lbs of nitrous the performance was reduced and I had to work harder with the bottle heater to keep it at 1050psi and eventually it wouldn't stay there no matter what.

if at 900psi its mostly vapor and air, how does a bottle heater help? raise the pressure of compressed air? will a bottle heater help me in this situation in the future(gonna buy one with next paycheck if it will)??

It's not that 900psi is mostly vapor, its that when the bottle is low and you can't get it to raise over 900psi you don't have the pressure and are likely empty so what your getting out the line is not only pure liquid nitrous, but a mixture of nitrous and the compressed air inside the bottle thats put in there during the filling process. If your bottle has enough nitrous in it, the heater will bring it up to 1050psi and you will get nothing but pure nitrous. You want the bottle pressure high and constent so that it keeps the HP figure on the shot the same.

next question... when the bottle is closed, should the line retain the pressure or should it slowly fade out? cuz mine slowly fades to 0psi when the bottle is closed... am i leaking some somewhere?

Yes you are, but there's nothing you can do about it. How long does it take? Mine used to keep pressure in there for 3-4 hours but over night it was gone. It's impossible to have a perfect seal on your fittings. Besides when nitrous sits in the lines it will eventually vaporise and will not work for you. So if your at the track and you ahve the bottle open but are sitting in the lane for a long time, that nitrous in the line is not fresh pure nitrous. This is why guys purge is to get rid of whats there so when they turn on the nitrous it's a hard hit right from the start. That little delay of that bit of vaporized nitrous coming out beofre pure liquid nitrous does can sometimes cause you the race when you lose by 1/10th of a second...

last question, when i refill it(say at 800psi) do i have to let all the nitrous out, and then go refill it, or can i just give them the bottle with 800psi? will they top it off or will they empty it and refill it?

No just bring them the bottle and they will refill it. Some places prefer to have the bottle totally empty, others don't care. Once you downto that 1-2psi left, it's pretty well garbage anyway so if you can find somebody that will fill you up that last 8psi so your full and only charge you for 8 then that is where you wanna fill.
 
so im probably empty at 800psi and need to refill, thats why i had no power? its not something wrong with my system? my line drains slower then yours i guess. i checked it last night after and hour and it had dropped 100psi. this morning i still had 100psi left in the line.

No just bring them the bottle and they will refill it. Some places prefer to have the bottle totally empty, others don't care. Once you downto that 1-2psi left, it's pretty well garbage anyway so if you can find somebody that will fill you up that last 8psi so your full and only charge you for 8 then that is where you wanna fill.

im assuming you mean pounds, and not psi here...

so a bottle heater is a good investment then? well thanks for your help, you never let me down :thumb:

thanks again
 
whoa that is sooo weird, this thread has been dead and i was just about to post in it. it ends up it wasnt my empty bottle that killed my power. so today, after 2 weeks of a full bottle without testing to see if filling it fixed, i open the bottle to try it out. i open it and the gauge only goes to 800psi. ####! so i decide ill try it out anyways and see if the gauge is broken. so i hit it and nothing.... no boost. soo now im pissed :mad: . i go home, and i was gonna weigh the bottle to see if it had stuff in it, but first i thought i would check my solenoids to see if they open. so i turn the key to the "on" position without the car running and hit WOT. no clicking from the solenoid. so i look under my dash and tehres a red wire with copper strands coming out of it just sitting there. i guess i kicked the wire out or something but the wire from teh arming switch that goes to the box was disconnected from the wire that connects it the box. i put it back in, electrical taped it and clamped it, and if worked perfectly :D :D :D but now im pissed cuz the gauge i bought 3 weeks ago is broken and i just threw away teh reciept. :mad: i hope they will exchange it but i doubt it... damn im pissed now i gotta buy another :mad: :mad: :mad:
 
How do you solder the connections in the zex kit? they come with those plugs that have the cylindrical ends for the bare wires to slip into. then i taped them to make sure it stayed there and then i clamped the cylinder down with pliars.
 
GSGoinFast said:
I guess i kicked the wire out or something but the wire from teh arming switch that goes to the box was disconnected from the wire that connects it the box.

That will happen if you try ####in a chick in our small cars :rolleyes:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G AWD Rear Knuckle Set
    2G AWD Rear Knuckle Set $230 + shipping and paypal fees* these are out of 2GB so you get a...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G GSX/GST Front Knuckle Set
    2G GSX/GST Front Knuckle Set $150 + shipping and paypal fees* on the L side Knuckle the little...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted Looking for an Evo 3 16g
    Anybody selling one let me know. Tried ebay and its all knock offs
    • heresjimmy42
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1g 1990 STM shifter base bushings
    1G 1990 STM shifter base bushings.
    • drich970
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1g 1G Radium fuel rail
    1G Radium fuel rail with built in FPR -8an feed and return
    • drich970
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top