Low boost after 5k

[vteg]

My car is bone stock. I have a new e16g but will not install it until I know what is going on.

My car has had bad performance since I bought it 2 months ago. I have done tuneups and maintenance on it. It has gotten better, but I still have a problem. Initially I thought the turbo was bad. When I received my new turbo last week I began the installation. When I pulled off the heat shields I discovered some small cracks in the manifold. So I stopped the installation and decided to buy a new manifold before I continued. While I had the intake hose off I took a look at the turbo. It is in much better condition than I thought. There is minimal shaft play on it. So after seeing this I did a test. I disconnected my bcs and plugged the wg into the intake. I took it for a test drive, and had boost I reconnected the bcs, and it was slow again.

My car currently has the following done in the last 1000 miles. New wires, plugs, o2 sensor, air filter. Timing is at 8 btc. My cas won't retard any further. I have read 5(+/-)3 is the stock spec. I have run 91 octane since I have owned the car.

I am sure that my ecu is killing my boost and timing. It is soo bad that my car can't make it to redline in third gear unless I bypass the bcs. My tach hardly moves after 5500 in 2nd.

So on a stock car what would cause this possible knock issue at high rpms? Or is something else going wrong.

I am new to dsm's, but I think the problem may have to do with the switch from close to open loop. What does the ecu rely on in open loop for fueling(tps, maf)? Under what conditions does open loop occur?

 

[TalonTSi-AWD91]

Do you have a datalogger? That will help a lot to figure out what your problem is. Do you even have a real boost gauge to see how much boost you're running? You should have your base timing set at 5 degrees, but were you saying you can't get it set lower then 8 degrees?

Without the BCS hooked up there isn't any way for the ECU to lower your boost. Have you checked for boost leaks already?

The switch to open loop is based on throttle and air flow. Closed loop on a stock ECU isn't used after 4,000RPMs. However, you can go into open loop way before if the current throttle position is higher then what is programmed for the throttle threshold. The threshold is different depending on what RPM you are currently at. The switch from closed to open loop isn't your problem since the problem is starting after 5,000RPMs.