Lost of power Lots of Oil and HUGE White SMoke Out The Exhaust...

[1997RS]

My 1991 GSX Lost power and lots of Oil and HUGE White Smoke Out The Exhaust...
There is a bunch of oil on top of valve cover gasket, I pulled each of my spark wires but they are all dry no oil in them. I have lots of oil on the front side of the motor all the way to the ground. Car starts and you can move it a couple of feets and shuts off not to start again. When i start it for 2 minutes I can no longer see out my car it is covered in white smoke all around my car. Did I break something or did a seal come off??? I need suggestions as to what to look for in this situation. I am confused though as to why in the world this happened. I been told I spun bearings, I need Piston Rings, I have a cracked head. All 3 were said by 3 different guys. What is the actual problem that I am facing here. My dad thinks I need a new motor. I think a head gasket (not so sure though) There seems to be no oil in water or water in oil. The car has 170,000 and I've had it for 5 weeks BAD A$$ LUCK HERE Help??? The day before I brought an Fuel Filter to make a Oil Catch Can out of it since I read that somewhere here and brought the exact same one has another person here has and installed it just like his. I left this morning and 15 miles down the road I felt like dropping to 4 from 5 gear and got on it when all of the sudden I look back and have lots of oil and lost of power I shift to 5 and still no power gain I drove to work 2 more miles ahead the car could barely pull its own weight adn shuts off right where I needed it to do so wont start but sure cranks. It fires up and all but I cant have it for more than 15seconds otherwise I'd be killing my neighbors dog . On the Breather side (where I installed the Fuel Filter) it was blowing white smoke thru it and the Fuel Filter had blown out of it too. I figure I had to much pressure built inside when all happened. Sorry for all of the reading but I just tried to make you guys feel like if you were there so that I can get a better feedback instead. Thank You Guys. I'd appreciate it if anyone could help me here and guide me on what to do. Experienced Hands On DSM'rs please.

George

 

[jfarm182]

im having the exact same problem with my GS-T. a little oil on valve covers. used to shoot blue smoke out exhaust now shooting HUGE WHITE CLOUDS of white smoke. not sure what to do

 

[1997RS]

Well jfarm seems like in my case I will be needing a head gasket although I do have compression readings of 140 - 140 - 85 - 0 yep I have a freaken zero on there. I have gone to several local mechanics and they've said that I could have a bigger chance of needing rings and a rebuild wouldnt be a bad idea at all.

I need 2g pistons with 1g rods

multi layer steel head gasket

full engine rebuild kit (hmmm what do you guys recommend???)

What do you guys think I should do??? Go with aftermarket engine parts like forged pistons Etc.??? or just plain old stock rebuild??? If anyone can give up a link where I can get most of these parts please send it to me, Thanks.

George

 

[1997RS]

Ok.

I just took the Intercooler out and it was almost half way full of oil :thumbdown I cleaned with gasoline and found a few pin holes that I covered until I get another one but mean while my main concern is the following. I started the GSX and it fired up (before cleaning intercooler) and after 30 seconds or so it started to smoke white thru the Breather hose and out the exhaust. Idle was kinda rough but the car didnt stay running for long after that. Could it mean that I may have more than just the head gasket to replace??? I havent pulled the head because I am waiting on the gasket itself. Any hint guys on what could all this kinda mean???

Cleaned Intercool and all piping including TB.

Thanks.

 

[Strm Trpr]

Alrighty then....
Just for Sh!ts & Giggles.... Try and start her now with a clean intercooler and tell us what happens....

 

[1997RS]

ok. I stalled the intercooler after cleaning it and also cleaned the engine thruout with engine cleaner bla bla. I fired her up and it ran for about 20 seconds before starting to smoke it ran for nearly 5 minutes and am glad I have left it running for that period of time because I found FRESH OIL LEAKS around the exhaust gasket and cam seal (exhaust) could this mean that I have a cracked head??? its not where the head meets the block where is leaking but above that. I have pictures and will be posting on my gallery check out and let me know what you guys think.

 

[Strm Trpr]

The pic titled "oil_in_vc" that one's easy, your oil cap gasket is leaking oil.
As far as the other pics, you are showing us, there's an oil leak just to the
right of your exhaust manifold.

Your compression numbers say that cylinder #4 = 0psi, and #3 = 85psi.

We see oil coming out around Cyl's. #1 & #2.
So, perhaps you meant to say Cylinder #1 = 0psi, and #2 = 85psi, but maybe
not, I'm sure you're aware that cylinder #1 is right behind the cam sprockets.

I'm pretty sure a Leak Down Test will tell you a little more about your engine's condition.

Keep us posted......

Good Luck.....

 

[Talonracer06]

im having the same kinda problem i think...i think some one said earlier about blue smoke...that is the turbo....as for the leak from the exhaust manifold could it be that gasket in ther? mine is leaking somewhere not from the head gasket...and its not to extreme of a leak...couple drops here and there...but it really shits out white and blue smoke when reved high...also the turbo wont spool up in nutral or in first gear...i can ride first till like 4500 and nothing..it spulls up then in 2nd....i dont get it...some1 let me know wat i should do ..some 1 said piston rings but that is hard to break

matt

 

[1997RS]

yes you're right it is piston 1 & 2 not 3&4 thats what happens when you have a 420a aswell sorry didnt meanto confuse anyone it was on my head left to right 1234 I cant find a double guage to do my leak down test and several mechanics here said yes and when I went with my 420a they started to bring there comp. test guage I said no no no leak down not comp. test... I had a guy almost argue with me about the difference and that a compression test was the same as a leakdown test (guys he sure pissed me off) I just said oh ok sorry my bad and walked off (idiot) I sware.

I will pull the head this weekend and post pics in the process aswell so if you guyts want you can save the pics that show problems due to my gallery filling so quick and i wont be able to post all if i dont delete a few so until this weekend I wont be able to post more, How can I post a 15 minutes clip with no sound??? i will take a short film of my exhaust blowing white smoke with my digital camera Thanks Guys for your support.

George

 

[1997RS]

I meant 15 seconds not minutes

 

[Strm Trpr]

So cylinders 1 = 0psi, & 2 = 85psi.
The head gasket is blown, right around an oil passage, that's why you over pressurized the crank case, that's why oil blew out of the VC hose into your intake and flooded your compressor, and in turn blew filled your IC with oil....

Good Luck on the rebuild...

 

[1997RS]

Thanks a lot, I just got the FelPro Head Gasket set and hopefully thats all the problem for the moment. I will take pics of everything that I do and show the head all around. I will start taking photos tomorrow Thanks.

George

 

[GS><]

Sorry to hi-jack your post here but i am having the same problem but i am a little more advanced in the fix. I was driving adn (unbeknownst to me) the water pump/altenator belt broke. I didnt know anythitng was wrong cause i was on teh highway so i didnt feel the steering being so tough. I heard what sounded like loud valve tick and i was liek WTF that is loud. Listened closer and it is the dieseling noise ya get when it is overheating. So I pull over and check it out and see the water is gone belt is gone and looke liek there is oily substance on teh tranny. It looked like antifreeze had shot from the side of the engine from inbetween the head and the block. SO i get it to a gas station and fill it up wiht water and start it up and TONS of white smoke. Well got it towed home and checked the forums for posts found this one and said lucky me this guys has the same problem and already got advise no wiating. So i got the head gasket and arp bolts and did the swap yesterday. To my dismay the gasket looks fine and I see nothign out of the ordinary. The worst part of it all was when i changed the oil. I would estimate that 2 gallons of oil antifreeze and water came out. Kinda looked like chocolate milk. I put it all back together took it for a spin and you would swear that i was spinning the tires in 5th gear so much smoke was coming out. The smoke was bad, but when the turbo spooled it got way worse. So I get back, take off the intake pipe and feel the turbo shaft and everythign is ok. Well I cant think of anything else to say. So flame on.

John

 

[1997RS]

Gosh am glad this guy posted here. Hackcenter, how can I check my head before installation to see if its not warped? I want to make sure I'd hate to buy everything again dont wanna do that Thanks.

George

 

[GS><]

That is what i was expecting to hear. Thank God i got 2 more heads that i can use. And 1997rs to check if it is warped get one of those metal rulers and sit it on the valve side of the head and see if it touches everywhere. Well thanks for the help, I think. He har.


John

 

[1997RS]

Thanks John. I will do that to check my head and I hope is good cause i dont have another one am fixing to jack the car now talk to all later I'll all posted with pics and info c-ya

George

 

[1997RS]

how much am I more or less expecting to spend for it to be checked and machined if needed?

 

[1997RS]

Ok am ready to take the Timing Belt off and already set the piston #1 to TDC and the sprockets marks all line up like the manual says to do. Do I need to remove that "L" shape mount bracket to the driver side before i continue??? do you know which one am talking about???

George

 

[1997RS]

Need help guys, am having difficulty here.

I just got thru with removing the head and found out that the gasket on piston 1 was blown but also piston 1 was in bad shape almost disfigured at the exhaust side I have photo of it and after viewing them they dont show quite as in person. I will call Polk Performance tomorrow to find out how much they charge for checking the head and milling if needed. Also how hard is it to remove the rest of the engine (block) since I already have the head out??? I am truly upset at this situation because it looks like someone had removed the head and cleaned it and reinstalled it using the same gasket and replacing the rest of all the gaskets with cylicone where needed it pissed me off. I need to send the block for what ever I need to do to it. What should I tell the machinist about the head and block??? I tried posting pics here but they are too big so if you dont see them here please check my gallery the photos consists of the first two you see exhaust ports and top of pistons in block. Can I rebuuild the block without having to take it out or should I just go ahead and remove it two? and How??? Would it be as difficult to get the block off as the head was or is it even easier? How much money am I to be expecting to spend?

I want the Standard piston size but with the ratio of the 2g's 8.5.1 and forged/rods too
who has the best price out there?

Anyone with any idea of where can I get this piston rod setup for a reasonable price??? If anyone can hook me up with their own hook up in parts please help if possible Thanks. I really appreciate everybody on this board you all have been one way or another lots of help to me keeping in mind that I never have taken a head off before by myself it was fun kinda ( am going to have fun putting everything back together hmm) .

My exhaust manifold is cracked beyond the *^*&$($ ($$%

Jott5555 has a manifold for sale but I cant get a hold of him can anyone get him to reach me??? I need a 2g mani anyone has one for exchange??? I have a 420a T3/T4 I will exchange for it is brand new (cant you tell am desperate here )
Guys Thanks You All for your help I appreciate you all Thanks.

George

 

[1997RS]

Thanks hackcenter,

I'll defenectly use these to keep up the good work thanks. I havent called anyone yet (machinicst) because it was Sunday and didnt want to try. I wont be removing the block until I can find someone reasonale in pricing and good job. I will keep all posted with project. Hackcenter you think the Top Line Engine Rebuild kit is good to go with??? I hav seen the price and its pretty decent but I dont know nothing about there quality though if anyone have used this brand before please post and let me know before hand Thanks.

George

 

[1997RS]

I called Polk like I said I would and they told me on the head checking it and basicaly doing a stage 1 would be 375.00 that with a 5 angle job cleaning and blablabla. I have to call them tomorrow again the person who was answering the phone couldnt give me an exact price on the block part, I told him I may want a .020 over on it if honing wasnt possible or if the price was right. I have this 50 trim t3t4 that havent been able to sell and I think I'll be using it for this gsx YEP the dang car will stopped for the longest time ever but will do everything right the first time, I trust Polk Performance they work on the 4g63 motors for a while now and they claim to have an almost 1000 hp laser I cant wait to see it though I'll be aiming for 450 hp atleast I have been doing my reading and research and 450 would be good for me I dont need 600+ I'll be happy even with 350hp but I know I'll want more later I'll keep you all posted and yes hakcenter i wont buy anything until my Block and Head are done (machining and all) Thanks.

George

 

[zxdude]

i have thbe exact same symptoms.... but.. I just completed a fresh rebuild. block was bored .020 new 1g pistons and rings head was redone new valves ect... when I first got it going it wouldn't boost (at all ) so we disconnected the wastegate to see if that would help... and it did the 14b spiked to 25-28 psi for a sec and then I hooked up the mbc set @ 15psi and drove it home (1-2 miles) I had a pretty bad crack in the valve cover... so I replaced it the next day and when I started it up it was smoking like a bi*** so I drove it to a friends across town and did a compression test was kinda random 90 90 90 30 .....

any thoughts...

I pulled off the intake pipe and saw oil on the compressor side and poured oil out of the IC so I have a Big 16g on the way

could I have fryed the rings that fast or blown a head gasket there cant be more than 20 miles on the engine..

 

[NinjaTech]

Where did you get the rebuilt motor from?

You said there is 20 miles on it? If it was a rebuilt motor there is no possible way that is has been broken in correctly yet... You should not even be boosting that motor untill you get it broken in, bearings, rings.. everything needs to wear down to work together correctly. Rings have to wear to conform and seal well with the cylinder walls. Bearings need to wear to conform with crankshafts.. If you run a new motor hard like before its broken in, dont expect it to run very well, or for very long. Really about the only thing I could really say to help you out is to pull the head and make sure it is not warpred and hope to hell that it was just leaking oil into the cylinders.. If all of that checks out find, then it sounds like the problem is going to be shortblock related and some new properly gapped rings may be needed.

If your showing numbers like that, it sounds like your leaking pressure out of all of your cylinders.. Even with new rings that are not broken in yet you should be pulling more pressure than that. The one saying 30 really scares me.

What color was the smoke comming out of your exhaust?

A little info on exhaust smoke.

Coolant: White smoke that has a 'sweet' smell to it. The smell is caused by either ethylene glycol or propylene glycol, a glycol is basicaly a form of sugar, hence the sweet smell. Usualy caused by a blown head gasket leaking coolant into the cylinders. Often you will get oil in your coolant, or coolent in your oil as indicators. Bubbles in the coolant are also a sign as air is bein forced into the water jacket around the cylinders.

Oil: Causes a dark smoke, often bluish in color. Has the characteristic burning oil smell. Caused mostly by exessive piston blowby or leaking valve stem seals. On turbo cars leaking turbo shaft seals can cause this also, but usualy the oil will just build up in the intake piping and not make it to the combustion chambers.

Black smoke: Running exessivly rich, this is caused by numerous things but indicates that the motor is running much 'richer' than it should be.


Pat

 

[zxdude]

I bought the car with a bad engine (holes in the block ) so I bought a short block and had it rebuilt new pistons ect.. and the head needed new intake valves so I replaced all of them including valve stem seals and valve guides....

long story short after having it all back together it wouldn't run for more than 30 seconds at a clip... ended up my lifters were locked .. (holding the valves slightly open) so we cleaned and used a pin to colapse them... after that I finally got to see it run ( kinda )
it would barely stay running and after a short drive around the block I was like wtf had to keep it floored almost the hole way that eventually cleared up after a few miles but the turbo wouldn't start boosting until 4500 rpms or so ...that when i pulled the vacume line off the wastegate....and it boosted ok but not all the time...

now back in time.. before I even got it running we did a ompression test and it was pretty much the same thing but it would randomly lose all the compression in random clyinders could this all be caused by the valves (partically stuck open)slightly hiting the pistons ? and also a bad 14b?

Adam

 

[NinjaTech]

You said it would randomly lose all compression in certain cylinders? The turbo does not have anything to do with a cylinder losing compression so that shouldnt be an issue. Sticking valves could be a posibility.. It would be kinda rare for more than one valve to stick though open though and move between the cylinders. I would check ajustment of the lifters and make sure they are not tigntend down to far to where they just hold the valves open a bit, check both intakes and exhausts. When you put the new intake valves in did you check all of the exhaust valves to make sure they where not bent at all? If the old motor died a pretty destructive death its possible a few of the old valves might be a little messed up. Also, check and make sure the timing belt is on correctly and not off at all.

Pat

 

[zxdude]

all the valves were fine, the machine shop did all the head work, and me and a fellow dsmer put the rest together... but could the valves been bent when they were still sticking open... the head was machined flat also.. thats when It had the random compression numbers.. now its just not high.. would a engine start and idle perfect if it had bad compression numbers like it is showing? the timing is perfect..