Logging Issue and Forum Issue

[dets]

Hey.




I haven't visited this forum in a while mainly because i haven't run into many problems with my DSM rally car.


Today i started to rebuild the car for a rally coming up in 2 weeks and i ran into a couple of problems.


My tps is showing at 10.9% at idle. ----------normal tps range? Adjustable by linkage?

EGRT is showing -16.0 F --------- is this normal?

And even after raising the RPM's to 3500, I'm recieving no knock on my logger which is a bit odd because i should get a 1 - 7 normally.

--------would the ECU throw a code if the knock sensor wasn't connected?




Also, i have to comment on this forum's lack of stickies.

Some of us work on alot of different cars. Others are doing this for the first time.

Could we please have a sticky about "BASELINE Settings for Logging"

It would have saved me a lot of time searching for an answer i still haven't found yet.

Thanks.

 

[dets]

i'd also like to add that my timing is severly advanced, probably due to knock, but if this is so, how come my logger isn't showing the advance on the timing and the knock concurrently?


btw, i was at 3500 rpm and was advanced about 38 deg. so you can tell how far off i'm getting.



Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[steve]

My tps is showing at 10.9% at idle. ----------normal tps range? Adjustable by linkage?

EGRT is showing -16.0 F --------- is this normal?

And even after raising the RPM's to 3500, I'm recieving no knock on my logger which is a bit odd because i should get a 1 - 7 normally.

TPS reading 10.9% is pretty close. 10% would be what the ECU wants to see. It's adjusted by turning the TPS.

I would guess you don't have a California car so you don't have a EGRT sensor. No input = meaningless output.

No knock isn't a bad thing. Dead knock sensors usually show knock all the time and dieing ones seem to be hypersensitive.

Steve

 

[dets]

TPS reading 10.9% is pretty close. 10% would be what the ECU wants to see. It's adjusted by turning the TPS.

I would guess you don't have a California car so you don't have a EGRT sensor. No input = meaningless output.

No knock isn't a bad thing. Dead knock sensors usually show knock all the time and dieing ones seem to be hypersensitive.

Steve

Steve, Thanks for the quick response.


Thanks for pointing out the EGRT, i've been away from DSM's for too long and i just blanked when i saw that logger.


Also, the timing is severly advanced on the car and it doesn't seem that the turbo is boosting properly. I've got a boost gauge thats pegged at zero so i'll try to diagnose the rest of it tommorow. Hopefully i'll upload some pictures.

 

[steve]

Also, the timing is severly advanced on the car

Before you go too much into this, warm the car up, get it idling at 750, then shut it down. Ground the timing adjust connector under the hood making sure any datalogger is disconnected and set the CAS using a timing light to 5 BTDC. When you disconnect the adjust timing connector the timing will bounce around between 5-10 degrees advanced and you may have to readjust the idle speed depending on where the timing was.

It's not abnormal for your timing to be in the 30's when crusing or on decel but that would be high for a WOT pull.

On the turbo the first thing to check if it's not making boost is that the wastegate actuator arm hasn't fallen off. If that isn't it you'll have to pull the MAF snorkle and check the turbo to shaft play or binding.

Steve

 

[dets]

Before you go too much into this, warm the car up, get it idling at 750, then shut it down. Ground the timing adjust connector under the hood making sure any datalogger is disconnected and set the CAS using a timing light to 5 BTDC. When you disconnect the adjust timing connector the timing will bounce around between 5-10 degrees advanced and you may have to readjust the idle speed depending on where the timing was.

It's not abnormal for your timing to be in the 30's when crusing or on decel but that would be high for a WOT pull.

On the turbo the first thing to check if it's not making boost is that the wastegate actuator arm hasn't fallen off. If that isn't it you'll have to pull the MAF snorkle and check the turbo to shaft play or binding.

Steve

I checked the wastegate by adding pressure to it and it would not open. Then i tried it with a junkyard part and it still wouldn't open.

I ended up just buying a new wastegate from SLo Boy racing. 130 shipped. it was for a 16G so it opens at 12psi.



The turbo is not binding and has no shaft play. I'm checking for vaccum leaks now. Hopefully i'll find it before Rally New York on Saturday.

Hopefully i'll have fixed the problem then.



Once again, thanks steve for responding.


If i may add, i'm also getting a bit of hesitation under intial acceleration. Vaccum leaks or is this an ignition problem? What type of Injector Pulse rate should i see under normal acceleration?

Thanks