logger timed 0-60

[tlikethedrink]

im just curious to see what the average 0-60 time is for a DSM.

Car and Driver has 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T (Auto) 7.4, with a 15.5 1/4mile.

i recently picked up a logger and it had a acceleration timer for 0-60.

with a 60 degree intake temp at nearly 5,500 ft above sea level i got a 8.9
mods in prof. which is none really. but my boost gauge does read out 13-14 psi with the free mods and open element air filter.

i know i have the heaviest Turbo Eclipse possible, an auto Spyder, but damn.
taking the altitude into consideration with all other factors aside, it seems right.

i was wondering if anyone else is willing to share some numbers with me. dont be shy. i mean look at mine...

 

[kenamond]

I can think of a couple of reasons, but I have no idea how much of a difference they'd make.

First, my brochure says 0-60 was 6.5s or so (I forget exactly, and the brochure is at work). I'm not sure if that was a TSi 5-speed, TSi-AWD 5-speed, or what.

Is an auto Spyder heavier than a GSX auto? I don't know, but I know that the AWD added like 350lb to the FWD, but that's for a GST/GSX or TSi/TSi-AWD.

Unless you're a really good driver, that might make a difference.

If you were going a bit uphill, that'd slow you down. You might think it's flat, but your brain is remarkable at fooling you into thinking downhill is uphill and vice-versa based on the surrounding lay of the land.

At 5500ft elevation, barometric pressure is like 85% of sea-level (I'm guessing a bit...it's 11psi up here at 8000ft). Anyway, that plays into the PR of the compressor. PR is *absolute* boost pressure divided by *absolute* ambient pressure. So if I run 14.7psi boost at sea level, that's PR=(14.7+14.7)/14.7=2. But if you run 14.7psi at 8000ft elevation where barometric pressure is 11psi, then PR=(11+14.7)/11=2.34. So as you go up in elevation, the same boost pressure gives a higher PR. And PR is where it's at for compressor efficiency. Higher PR might mean less efficient, and that means less air in the cylinders than at sea level.

Another thing is a healthy motor. If your compression is perfect and you have no boost leaks, etc., then this may not be an issue, but how's your compression and boost leak situation?

Finally, did the article mention what octane gas they ran? I know I can't find above 91 octane around here in the winter, and only 92 octane in the summer.

That's my $0.02.

EDIT: I also just remembered that advertised hp for a 5-speed was 210 while an auto was 205. Losses in the torque converter.

 

[tlikethedrink]

The time i looked up was for an automaitic GST.

I think the Spyder was pretty close to the GSX wieght.

I dont think me being a good/bad driver would make a difference. Its automatic. The clock on the logger starts when the vehicle starts moving. It ran the same thing twice.

The uphill/downhill thing crossed my mind too. So i ran it both ways in the same area. Again the times were the same.

I figured altitude is the, or one of the bigger factors.

Healthy Motor... To be honest ive never done a compression test. The head is freshly rebuilt tho. Boost leak? Maybe. Ill have to check it out. other than that i can say from my stand point, its OK. ive done everything i was supposed to. Just last week i changed the oil and plugs.

As far as the gas they used im sure it was premium. 91+. Testing was also done closer if not at sea level on a brand new car.

No matter how well a car is treated, there is gonna be a difference from 100k miles and new. Stock cat and fuel filter probably dont help. They are do for a changing. I have a 2.5 02 back exhaust (magnaflow cat included) that should go on in a week or two. Fuel filter will be changed then too. Later i would like to put it a 190 or Evo 8-9 pump and 550 or Evo injectors .The stock side mount probably has oil in it too. And the stock pipes are restictive. But they too will be replaced.

Till then i guess this is a good baseline. it leaves LOTS of room for improvement. When the mods are installed, and its tuned with an SAFC. Ill give it a few more runs on the same road. Ill try a cool nite and log the temp and intake temp. If these mods dont break it into the high 7s or very low 8s, ill just start saving my money. if they do, 14b here i come. Then it will be done.

If nothing less its still a nice DD. MPG isnt great, but not bad.

 

[kenamond]

With no boost leaks, turbo, intake (filter, intake pipe, and charge pipes), stock exhaust, I get close to 30mpg on a ~70mph cruise (back-forth to Santa Fe). Around town, I get around 20-22mpg if I don't floor it at every green light. If you're getting much less than this in similar situations, I'd suspect boost leaks. I found a bunch when I started upgrading, and the car seemed fine beforehand. It's not like they stand out. Might want to start there; you'll need to fix most of the stuff even with the upgrades. PCV valve, TB gaskets, BISS o-ring, and injector seals were my leaks, but it went from not even pressurizing above 10psi to holding 20psi and leaking down 1psi every 4 seconds after fixing those leaks.

Just got my 3" turboback on today. Waiting for the RTV on the gaskets to dry before I do some test pulls at 12psi (to be safe). Went on a pizza run and hammered it a couple of times, and...well...you could tell.

 

[tlikethedrink]

I get around 22 MPG mix between city and hwy. But ill def' have to build me a boost leak tester. i got to head down to Caballo tomorrow for work, so i dont know if ill have time when i get back to do a full test.
Is there a write up to build and leak test? Link? im being lazy...

 

[JeffGST]

I get around 22 MPG mix between city and hwy. But ill def' have to build me a boost leak tester. i got to head down to Caballo tomorrow for work, so i dont know if ill have time when i get back to do a full test.
Is there a write up to build and leak test? Link? im being lazy...

I have a quick and easy way to build a boost leak tester on my site. It's not pretty but it works perfectly. I use it weekly.
http://www.jeffgst.com/boostleaktester.html

DSMlink datalog 0-60 MPH = 3.18 Sec

 

[kenamond]

I have a quick and easy way to build a boost leak tester on my site. It's not pretty but it works perfectly. I use it weekly.

That'll do. The trick for me was finding a threaded valve stem (didn't have the threaded kind at the hardware store), so I used a bicycle stem and cut off the tube (free from a cycle repair shop).

Don't forget the hose clamps. They're not listed in the parts list.

 

[JeffGST]

That'll do. The trick for me was finding a threaded valve stem (didn't have the threaded kind at the hardware store), so I used a bicycle stem and cut off the tube (free from a cycle repair shop).

Don't forget the hose clamps. They're not listed in the parts list.

Every Autozone, Checker Auto, Napa, PepBoys carries threaded tire valve stems in their stores. And the hose clamps actually came included with the Silcone Couplers. I bought those at Home Depot.

 

[tlikethedrink]

I have a quick and easy way to build a boost leak tester on my site. It's not pretty but it works perfectly. I use it weekly.
http://www.jeffgst.com/boostleaktester.html

DSMlink datalog 0-60 MPH = 3.18 Sec

3.18= AWD beast!

yea im goin to build one this weekend. been busy with work n stuff. ill get to it tho. im also in the process of ordering a few ebay parts. IC hard pipes, catback. after install and boostleak test/fix i hope to knock off atleast a sec.

how do i set the timing for *30?