(Link)Changed exhaust manifold and the tune went to hell..

[nightmares GS-T]

Alright I recently changed my leaking tubular manifold with an erl and installed the innovate mtxl wideband along with my FP 3582r hta. Now I only got one pull out of the 35r before it died tragically. Sending it to fp tomorrow. Anyway put my 50 trim back on and went for a cruise and its pretty rough. Mechanically the only change is a non leaking manifold and now im simulating the narrow band and my afrs are all over the place. Ive tried to adjust the sliders a bit to fix idle and have been trying to work on cruise but I cant seem to get it right. Can anyone take a look at the log and tell me what im doing wrong?

 

[snowborder714]

Is the MTX-L placed in the rear o2 position, or just wired into it?
Have you done a boost leak test recently, and/or checked for exhaust leaks?

 

[nightmares GS-T]

Is the MTX-L placed in the rear o2 position, or just wired into it?
Have you done a boost leak test recently, and/or checked for exhaust leaks?

Finally a response . The sensor is directly after the turbo in the o2 housing. As for exhaust leaks shouldnt be any as theres only 2 spots it could leak. The turbo to manifold gasket is brand new and the o2 housing to turbo is v band so it also shouldnt be leaking. As for boost leaks none. The only one is from today when the boost gauge line blew off. Its fixed now. I would be happy to check for exhaust leaks. Is there a way to do it without damaging my sensor? Also would like to note that the sensor does seem to be accurate because everytime it starts jumping around once it goes above 17 afr it starts sputtering and you can feel the car lose power until it stops.

 

[constant_proj21]

Wideband sensors should not be placed in the o2 housing, I'm pretty sure that is in the instructions. The sensors aren't like stock o2 sensors, and burn out often when that close to the turbo.

 

[snowborder714]

It's fine to run it in the front, but yes they wear faster.

Have you verified base timing with a light? Something else had to have been touched other than just swapping an exhaust manifold. It seems to idle ok at the end of the log, did it?

 

[nightmares GS-T]

It's fine to run it in the front, but yes they wear faster.

Have you verified base timing with a light? Something else had to have been touched other than just swapping an exhaust manifold. It seems to idle ok at the end of the log, did it?

No base timing check. Under WOT its actually nice which tells me timing is good. And yes at the end of that log it actually wasnt to bad. Slightly lean but steady. It got better because I raised the biss screw some. Its really rough in the morning as well. Im thinking maybe the IAT could have something to do with it. Im using a maft so my intake temps are locked at 75-80. If I wire in my gm iat will it over ride the maft intake temp reading? Im gonna get another log later on. In the mean time anyone have any suggestions?

Wideband sensors should not be placed in the o2 housing, I'm pretty sure that is in the instructions. The sensors aren't like stock o2 sensors, and burn out often when that close to the turbo.

Correct. But when simulating you need it as close as possible for optimal performance. If it last a year ill be happy.

 

[snowborder714]

If you wire in an IAT to the IAT input with a MAFT, it will log properly. The GM MAF doesn't intput an IAT signal to the ECU, which is why you have the IAT's locked.

 

[nightmares GS-T]

If you wire in an IAT to the IAT input with a MAFT, it will log properly. The GM MAF doesn't intput an IAT signal to the ECU, which is why you have the IAT's locked.

Didn't know they had one . Thanks i'll try to get that handled this weekend. My idle is complete shit now. It sounds like im sporting kelford 280s. Ill get a log after work. Im considering putting my stock o2 sensor back in and seeing what happens.

 

[snowborder714]

Here's the list of available ECU inputs. You'll be able to find the IAT input on there.
externalsensorinput [ECMTuning - wiki]

 

[nightmares GS-T]

Here's the list of available ECU inputs. You'll be able to find the IAT input on there.
externalsensorinput [ECMTuning - wiki]

Well if I wire it into the maft I shouldn't have to assign another input right?

 

[snowborder714]

You can't wire it into the MAFT as far as I know. You'll want to tap into the IAT wire itself that goes to the ECU.

 

[nightmares GS-T]

You can't wire it into the MAFT as far as I know. You'll want to tap into the IAT wire itself that goes to the ECU.

Ok. Ill have to find a pigtail first. I don't think the iat is the issue though because it was locked before. I know it wouldn't hurt though.

 

[snowborder714]

No, the IAT won't magically make it better.

I would test your ISC and readjust the BISS with the car warmed up at idle to see if one of those two are causing problems.
DmTaLoN's Idle Speed Control Test/Fix Page!

 

[nightmares GS-T]

No, the IAT won't magically make it better.

I would test your ISC and readjust the BISS with the car warmed up at idle to see if one of those two are causing problems.
DmTaLoN's Idle Speed Control Test/Fix Page!

Ok. Ill check them out couldn't I just simulate the idle switch if the isc is bad?

 

[nightmares GS-T]

Well just an update snowboarder you were right the manifold wasn't the only change turns out my battery was slowly dying. Last night it quit completely and once replaced the car idles and drives so much better. Ill work on the tune some later and see how it reacts. One problem area I seem to have noticed is between 2k rpms through about 3200 rpms it goes lean. I don't know of its my maf comp.

 

[nightmares GS-T]

Been doing some adjusting. Finally got some new logs. Im having a hell of a time getting it in tune. Seems like the airflow sliders never seem to be in the right area because at ceratin airflow signals between 50 and 200 hertz I get random mis fires off and on no matter what I change. Also noticed that I have changes made on the maf clamp that I didnt make. What exactly is the maf clamp? Anyway heres a few logs. Didnt know i was logging speed so hopefully i dont get flamed to hell and back for it. The first WOT log was a 4th gear pull. No knock. The second WOT log is a 3rd pull and I got knock as you will see. Let out and shifted to 4th and no knock. Also for some reason at random times my wideband is off from links reading sometimes half a point or more.

 

[snowborder714]

Looking at the idle log, you're idling fairly lean.
Your ISC value is also fairly low. Have you tried to adjust things (mainly the BISS screw) to get it around 30 while idling?
You also need to do some airflow tuning it looks.

You also appear to be running on an old firmware version, which I would recommend upgrading.
ECMTuning, Inc.

 

[nightmares GS-T]

Looking at the idle log, you're idling fairly lean.
Your ISC value is also fairly low. Have you tried to adjust things (mainly the BISS screw) to get it around 30 while idling?
You also need to do some airflow tuning it looks.

You also appear to be running on an old firmware version, which I would recommend upgrading.
ECMTuning, Inc.

I adjusted the biss some and when idling smoothly it sits at 11. If i was to adjust it to read 30 my idle would likely be over 1500 rpms. I have been working on adjusting airflow as well. The trims are everywhere and I cant seem to get them to stabilize. As for the firmware I tried once already and it failed. Ill try again in the next few days.

 

[hypergenesis]

Wideband sensors should not be placed in the o2 housing, I'm pretty sure that is in the instructions. The sensors aren't like stock o2 sensors, and burn out often when that close to the turbo.

A majority of members run their wideband o2 at the front o2 housing location because its the most optimal location for a wideband. Also From what I have read from a majority of the members it doesn't cause the wideband to "Fry out" as most say. It is meant to handle the heat thats the entire point of the wideband. If they couldn't withstand the heat then a factory o2 would be better.

just my 2 cents

 

[Kalub]

I adjusted the biss some and when idling smoothly it sits at 11. If i was to adjust it to read 30 my idle would likely be over 1500 rpms. I have been working on adjusting airflow as well. The trims are everywhere and I cant seem to get them to stabilize. As for the firmware I tried once already and it failed. Ill try again in the next few days.

Make sure you have your base idle rpm set, then slowly adjust the BISS giving the ISC enough time to respond and lower the idle. You want your ISC to sit at 30, give or take a few. (It should average around 30 though) If you can get your ISC correctly adjusted then the ECU should be able to make the car idle better. Also, I always set DSMLink to simulate the idle switch, but that shouldn't be needed.

 

[nightmares GS-T]

I know its a dumb question but is there any way I can use link to disable the fuel trims altogether while i tune? Damn trims get old fast when im trying to dial in airflow. I thought if it could be done then I would be able to see the changes on the wideband as i adjusted the sliders instead of having to wait on the trims to update.