turbo tim1
10+ Year Contributor
- 163
- 5
- Sep 16, 2010
-
Pine lake,
AB, Canada
A friend of mine brought me a 90 talon in pieces, I put in a new engine and am now at fire up stage, the car starts but idles lean (brand new aem wide band guage) it has the a/f pinned lean at idle, it revs up fine but idle is so lean that it almost wants to stall out.
here is what I have done so far.
1. put a fuel pressure gauge on it to see fuel pressure which is at 45 psi.
2. I have installed a 400 lph walbro fuel pump, changed nothing. tried changing the fp reg aswell, still lean.
3. put the return fuel line in a bucket, that fuel pump is moving a shit ton of fuel through that rail and regulator so flow is not a problem.
4. I have slowely pinched of the return line watching the pressure on the gauge climb to 100 psi essenstially dead heading he pump and no change in A/F which I find very odd, usually that will make a car go rich.
5. swapped ecu's no change
6. checked the wiring at the ecu to see if some one at some point switched pin 6 and 14 around, and for shits and giggles I switched them around, no change so I switched them back.
7. swapped out the incjector resistor pack, no change.
8. found that some one had wired the top coolant sensor wires to the ecu coolant sensor located next to the single wire sensor thats for the gauge and they had tied off the ecu coolant sensor wires, so I fixed that, the car starts better but still lean.
9. car gets a little richer with air meter unplugged but still pegged lean.
10. car has maf translator and 550 cc incjectors, maf translator is backed off as if it has the smallest injector size. I tried a factory air meter and factory injectors, car is now really lean, so I swapped back in the 550s with the factory air meter, it richened up a bit but still pegged lean on the new wide band gauge.
11. checked the voltage supply going to the injectors, tested out at 11.9v Key on engine off, while running it has the same voltage that the alternator is kicking out. 13.9v
I have been around these cars for a long time, but this problem has me stumped.
t belt in time and timing is set at 5 degrees total at idle, firing order is correct.
any advice would be much appreciated.
here is what I have done so far.
1. put a fuel pressure gauge on it to see fuel pressure which is at 45 psi.
2. I have installed a 400 lph walbro fuel pump, changed nothing. tried changing the fp reg aswell, still lean.
3. put the return fuel line in a bucket, that fuel pump is moving a shit ton of fuel through that rail and regulator so flow is not a problem.
4. I have slowely pinched of the return line watching the pressure on the gauge climb to 100 psi essenstially dead heading he pump and no change in A/F which I find very odd, usually that will make a car go rich.
5. swapped ecu's no change
6. checked the wiring at the ecu to see if some one at some point switched pin 6 and 14 around, and for shits and giggles I switched them around, no change so I switched them back.
7. swapped out the incjector resistor pack, no change.
8. found that some one had wired the top coolant sensor wires to the ecu coolant sensor located next to the single wire sensor thats for the gauge and they had tied off the ecu coolant sensor wires, so I fixed that, the car starts better but still lean.
9. car gets a little richer with air meter unplugged but still pegged lean.
10. car has maf translator and 550 cc incjectors, maf translator is backed off as if it has the smallest injector size. I tried a factory air meter and factory injectors, car is now really lean, so I swapped back in the 550s with the factory air meter, it richened up a bit but still pegged lean on the new wide band gauge.
11. checked the voltage supply going to the injectors, tested out at 11.9v Key on engine off, while running it has the same voltage that the alternator is kicking out. 13.9v
I have been around these cars for a long time, but this problem has me stumped.
t belt in time and timing is set at 5 degrees total at idle, firing order is correct.
any advice would be much appreciated.
