Just got my datalogger

[Passion 4 Speed]

hey guys im new to this datalogger stuff and i need some help understanding these words terms and to also know if everything is workng properly...
highest i went "havent had a chance to floor it" was at 4562 rpms.
ok so this is what i got and pretty much dont understand. Im such a newbie to this.
This is what i logged at 4562 rpms
INJP... 11.51ms ???
O2-R... 8.87V ??
TPS... 65.6% i know what this is, jus wanna know if the % is ok?
ISC...29.2% BARGO 1.00 bar
TIMA...21 EGRT..-28.2 c
02-F...3.32V Batt...14.2v i know what this is too
COOL..95.0C FTRL....132.8%
AIRT...26.9C FTRM...120.3%
FTRH...120.3% FT02...100.0%
MAFS... 880.5Hz ACLE...0%

Thank You so much for your time! Sorry for the newbie question i jus want to understand these word terms and such. O and which of these should i keep my eye on when i add on new parts or anything like that! I hope i posted in the right section

 

[LousyDriver]

I can help you out with a few of those:

INJP - injector pulse width, in ms. The total time the injector has between ignition events is 120,000/RPM. When INJP > time available, your injectors are at 100% and your fuel system is maxed out.

O2-R - meaningless on a 1g, there is only one o2 sensor. You are reading some address in the ECU.

TPS - if you have the pedal to the floor, this should read 99-100%. If it reads 60% when the pedal is to the floor, it's either out of adjustment or bad.

ISC - Idle Speed control

BARGO - I think this is your barometric reading, my logger calls it BARO.

TIMA - Timing advance

O2-F This should be your o2 sensor, but it should read between 0-1 volts. Something is wrong with this reading

Cool - coolant temp
AIRT - air temp
FTRL, FLTM, FLTH - fuel trims, All yours are high, should be close to 100% on a properly tuned car. Your O2 sensor is showing a lean condition, and the computer is correcting for it, try to figure out what is up with your o2 voltage reading so you know what is going on.

MAFS - air flow sensor
ACEL - acceleration enrichment. On mine it's usually zero except when I press down quickly on the throttle. I believe it serves the same purpose as the accelerator pump on a carb - lots of fuel when the throttle is pressed down to avoid hesitation and a lean condition .

Hope that helps. If I were you, I'd try to figure out what's with the o2 voltage first. Maybe your logger is reading the wrong address, or doing the conversion incorrectly. Which one are you using?

 

[Passion 4 Speed]

hey thanks a lot for your time and help! Im starting to get the feel and understanding of this the more i mess with it. Im using the cheap ebay datalogger umm it was like 60 dollars for it, the program in the palm pilot is called MMcd. O and the sensor is brand new like 6 months old..I just logged my data from WOT at 6375rpms.."my cars automatic"
i got the o-2 reading at 3.49v..but the pointless one "o2-r" is at 0.91v.. my tps was at 99.6% so thats good right? My timing advance was at 22.. And my Egr temp is allways at -28.2C i have it blocked too. sorry im tyring to make sure everything checking out fine. as for the sensor u think that maybe they wired it wrong? thanks for your help!

 

[LousyDriver]

In your case, the O2-R might be reading the actual O2 sensor. Watch it and see if it behaves like it should - It will start out at 0.00 when the engine is cold, then climb slowly, then start jumping back and forth between 0 and 1 when you drive around. It should be near the max reading when you accelerate.

If that's the case, then that is the correct reading for your o2 sensor. I run MMcd too, but I get the proper reading on the O2-f. It's probably just a minor difference in the ECU software from the 90-92 ECU's.

 

[DSMeclipse4G63]

for sake of rambling on for the next week Ill make this short. The more pids or "selections" you choose to read at a time make the readings slower and less accurate(i.e you may read .94v for the o2 at 5000k but you may only be reading .89v). I would say reading ignition timing, front o2, maf and rpm. these are the necessary ones also I like to breeze through my fuel trims(only short term not long term), iat(intake air temp) and sometimes coolant temp. But I mostly did these by themselves after a related mod to get an accurate measurement. what values you should look for with these are as follows:

RPM:0-7000ish(you should know this one)
front o2: .00-1.00(look for switching while driving and .90-.98 during wot depending on boost)
ignition timing: 5-6 degrees - 32 degrees( look for mid 20's- high 20's during cruise and wot look for it to pull timing back to a single digit and stedily add timing, healthy wot ignition timing is high teens peak)
MAF: mass air flow this depends on the turbo, or intake setup for a n/t so that youll have to give your induction setup for me to geusstimate your flow.
short term fuel trims: these are important on cruise ALOT more then wot, and since you do cruising more then wot that is why these are VERY important. you should read between -10%- 10% to be healthy, but that may increas a little and thats OK. Reading these is watching how much fuel is being added or subtracted to maintain a certain air fuel ratio(i.e 14:1 at idle and part acceleration)
IAT(intake air temp): degrees not so import as the others, but a nice feature when I was designing my cold air box, we all know that colder denser air makes power.
coolant temp: this should either be a temop reading or voltage 1-5v should be expected less when hot and more when cold(voltage that is)

dammit I knew I was going to rant a bit...oh well I hope what I just said can help you out, let me know if you have any questions
Andrew

 

[iowaboostin]

http://www.3si.org/plhelp/index.html

 

[Passion 4 Speed]

oo ok, thanks guys for all your help!

 

[Quasimondo]

http://www.vfaq.com/TMO/Tuning-Tips.htm
http://www.vfaq.com/TMO/