just got a call from the trans shop .... not good news

[1TUFFDSM]

i took my car to a trans shop to get its first NEW ACT 2600 and fidanza flywheel installed,b4 i took it there i my self put a new master and a ss clutch line, and it was fine on the stock clutch,

i also bought a new OEM mitsu TOB (didnt use the act one) and slave to put on when he did the job. when the guy got it all together he called me saying "the clutch will not disingauge, he says when he puts the petal to the floor it wont go in gear, but if he turns it off puts it in first with the clutch down then turns it on the car will start to move with the clutch all the way DOWN, the petal feels good like its supposed to work.

im like did you bleed it , did you adjust the master,

he said he tried to adjust it by turning it in, and it got worse.

idont know wut to do

help!!!

 

[1stGenRocks]

Check for slop in the pedal assembly underneath the dash.

 

[1TUFFDSM]

update!

went back to the shop today, he had took the boot out of the relese bearing fork to take a peek inside,

what he had found is that the act pressure plate was either stuck pressed in or bent in, saying that the pressure plate is defective and from the view i had there was some sraches around the pressure plate

so i got to call act and find out is this possible,

i told the guy put my stocker back in, and im taking the car.

whats your guyz opinion

 

[JayRolla]

Hmmm thats wierd. I wouldnt think the plate would be messed up if its new. It could be though. When you said he adjusted the master in it got worse. I had to have mine adjusted all the way out to get it to engage right.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

That would be correct......out to increase the release, in to decrease the release.

The ACT PP being defective......maybe during shipment????? But you'd have to bang the sh!t out of the release "forks" and damn, those things are tough.

Pedal assembly could have slop, but it seems weird that it just "all of the sudden" popped up.

For quite some time now ACT has been shipping a correct TOB for our cars (with the plastic inner sleeve) which is similar to the OEM version.

 

[daren_p]

When you say the PP was stuck pressed in or bent in, what does it look like & how do you know this forsure? When the PP is installed & torqued properly the finger will sit parallel with the disk or flywheel face, they won't sit up on an angle like they did when the clutch wasn't installed. Did he bleed both the master & the slave as the slave could very well still have bubbles in it. Check pedal slop, which is a common problem on 1g's & make sure he adjusted the rod correctly.

 

[swarm]

That would be correct......out to increase the release, in to decrease the release.

The ACT PP being defective......maybe during shipment????? But you'd have to bang the sh!t out of the release "forks" and damn, those things are tough.

Pedal assembly could have slop, but it seems weird that it just "all of the sudden" popped up.

For quite some time now ACT has been shipping a correct TOB for our cars (with the plastic inner sleeve) which is similar to the OEM version.

My car is not fully disengaging the clutch either.

So what you are saying is that when you are under the dash, you loosen the lock nut, and screw the rod OUT (toward the back of the car) ???

 

[FORMONTOYA]

I guess that was a little vague...........

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The longer you make the rod (connection point at 121mm [4.8in]), the more "release" you will get from the clutch.

Sorry.

 

[swarm]

Ok, looking at that diagram, does the rod thread into the left side of the assembly, as well as the right side (the one where the lock nut is)? Because I have loosened the lock nut and turned the rod in clockwise (into the master cyl) as far as I can without losing too many threads near the lock nut. Is this the correct way? or should I be moving counter-clockwise to add more release? that attachment is still a bit vague.

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This is a picture from under the dash. The bottom part of the picture is toward the rear of the car, and the top is the master cyl. should i be loosing the rod OUT of the master cyl, or pushing it further in?

 

[FORMONTOYA]

I want to say it your normal "righty tighty, lefty loosy" thread. No matter if it's left or right hand threads.......the more threads you have to the left of the locknut, the more "release" you will get. Turn it "into" the master cylinder.

 

[swarm]

So is the master cylinder also threaded?? Because if it's not, adding threads to the left of the lock nut (if you're looking at the picture I posted, it would be to the bottom - if you are looking at your diagram, it would be the opposite - please clarify)

So, lets just use my picture. If I want more release, I want to add more threads toward the back of the car, right? is that what you are saying? or do i want more threads toward the firewall? this is hard to explain.

 

[Strm Trpr]

You mentioned that you are using a Fidanza FW.
Is the step height correct for your new clutch system.
I'd call ACT and get the exact step height necessary for your application.
Have your mechanic check the step height with a dial indicator.
Read this, it may have the answer you're looking for.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm

Also, since you have a 1g, I bet the pivot ball and clutch fork are also contributing to the problem.
You should replace them with new OEM parts when doing a new clutch.

Do not shim the pivot ball with washers.
Do not buy extended slave cylinder push rods.
These are just bandaids, and will only promote other problems in the long run.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

So is the master cylinder also threaded?? Because if it's not, adding threads to the left of the lock nut (if you're looking at the picture I posted, it would be to the bottom - if you are looking at your diagram, it would be the opposite - please clarify)

So, lets just use my picture. If I want more release, I want to add more threads toward the back of the car, right? is that what you are saying? or do i want more threads toward the firewall? this is hard to explain.

The master cylinder is not threaded. If you thread (move the rod) in the direction of the arrow, you will increase the release. In other words, it will release farther away from the disk/flywheel.

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[JayRolla]

Yes thread it all the way into the master cylinder towards the front of the car. For mine to work correctly I had no threads left and it was adjusted all the way out. That is the hardest thing to do on a DSM I think. After the engine swap I did that was the most pain in the ass except dropping the motor into the bay.

 

[VisionPaintball]

Damn Im having this problem too. Just installed fidanza and Rps clutch,new slave,new master,new ball,new fork,s/s line and still wont work. I just got done removing the pedal assembly and it looks mint. I dont know what to do next besides cry,

 

[swarm]

Did you shim the fulcrum ball?

Was the flywheel stepped properly?

 

[VisionPaintball]

The fidanza wasn't stepped but I got it from my friend who used it for approx. 500 miles and it worked great. I didnt shim the ball because I figured I didn't have to because the ball and fork were new. According to RRE's site the fork lever is sitting at the right angle. Do you think i should take out the trnny and shim it?

 

[swarm]

I don't know - was your friend using stock clutch? I am nowhere near an expert on this situation. Have you fixed this yet? Tried a steel braided clutch line?

 

[92awddsm]

You mentioned that you are using a Fidanza FW.
Is the step height correct for your new clutch system.
I'd call ACT and get the exact step height necessary for your application.

Step height is supposed to be .610-.612". This will be the same with any stock style replacement clutch whether it is an act, oem, daiken, etc.

 

[VisionPaintball]

I am having a nut welded to the master cylinder clip to get some extra adjustment. After I install it we'll see how it is.

This is where I got the idea from:
From Doboxracing.com website

Why does my trans (new or used) not perform 100%?

There are many times when your new or old trans may be in perfect working order but still grinds or has trouble going into gear. The problem is, an adjustment issue.

Lets start with the clutch. The higher your clutch pedal grabs, the quicker your clutch will disengage and get you into gear faster and smoother. Here are some tips... Adjust the pedal travel and/or bleed your hydraulic system. If you run out of pedal adjustment don't panic. The root of the problem is usually a worn clutch fork, if you don't want to drop the trans, you can pull the metal U clip attached to the clutch master and weld a nut to it for extra adjustment.
Now for the shift cables, time and time again people neglect this step. Remove your center console to gain access to the shifter and cables. Remove the cotter pins and slide both cables off. Your side to side selector is self centering, so adjust that cable until it falls into the shift linkage. Now you want to adjust the front to back throw which is a little more tricky. Center the lower part of the shifter below the pivot point and adjust that cable so it falls into place. If you cannot get the cables to fall directly into place, you can get extra adjustment from the trans bracket.