Resolved Jump 2G fuel pump?

[caseyk]

I need to jump my fuel pump to see if its still good. Where are the wires located at so I can jump it?

 

[dsmcurse]

take bench seat portion outa the back of the car. therres the two lil pull tab thingys and the seat pops right off. on the passenger side there will be a inspection plate covering up the fuel tank. the fuel pump wire harness is right there. its in a plastic guide and thats screwed down with phillips screws. get out your number 2 phillips screw driver and remove the 4 screws holdin down the inspection plate. pull the harness through the lil black rubber boot ontop of the inspection cover. now you can move that plate and look at the gas tank. the round lid that holds the fuel pump/sending unit into the plastic gas tank itself requires a speacial tool called a spanner wrench. no body has one so its okay. take a good sized flat blade screw driver and a hammer and tap on the round lid in a "unscrewing it" kinda way. once that round lid is off you can slowly pull the pump out. good luck

 

[caseyk]

Thanks, I already know how to take the fuel pump out though. I need to jump the fuel pump to see if it still works. I heard theres a 2-pin plug in on the firewall to jump the fuel pump using the battery. I just need to kind of hard wire it to the battery to see if it still turns on.

 

[steve]

http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/2G/fuelpumptestconn.htm

 

[caseyk]

Thanks, I ended up looking through google for awhile and found it. Thanks for the help.

 

[VBR_DSM]

http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/2G/fuelpumptestconn.htm

Resurrecting this. I need to test my fuel pump (95 talon AWD). I found the test connector but how do you actually test it? The link doesn’t work any more. Any help will be appreciated!

 

[19Eclipse90]

This was posted recently on how to test the fuel pump through the test connector:

2G Sound like a bad fuel pump

 

[pauleyman]

Resurrecting this. I need to test my fuel pump (95 talon AWD). I found the test connector but how do you actually test it? The link doesn’t work any more. Any help will be appreciated!

You simply apply 12v to the connector.

 

[VBR_DSM]

This was posted recently on how to test the fuel pump through the test connector:

2G Sound like a bad fuel pump

There’s a lot of good info on this thread, thanks for sharing. I applied 12V to the connector straight from the battery and nothing happened. Didn’t hear the fuel pump at all. All electrical connections seem to be fine. I will check grounds next based on the thread. Thanks for the quick response guys!

 

[pauleyman]

There’s a lot of good info on this thread, thanks for sharing. I applied 12V to the connector straight from the battery and nothing happened. Didn’t hear the fuel pump at all. All electrical connections seem to be fine. I will check grounds next based on the thread. Thanks for the quick response guys!

You sure you have the right one? You can check for 12v at the pump if you jumper that connector. Will quickly rule out if you have a circuit problem or pump problem.

 

[VBR_DSM]

You sure you have the right one? You can check for 12v at the pump if you jumper that connector. Will quickly rule out if you have a circuit problem or pump problem.

Black connector, right?
Good idea, I will check for that for 12V at the FP. Do you know which pins I should check on the fuel pump connector? I assume pins 1 & 2 on connector E-36 AWD (post #9) from the thread below.
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-awd-fuel-tank-wiring.542675/

 

[pauleyman]

There are multiple black connectors.
If it's still as it left the factory it's taped to the harness, dead end and it's a single female spade connector. It's on the firewall passenger side.

 

[VBR_DSM]

There are multiple black connectors.
If it's still as it left the factory it's taped to the harness, dead end and it's a single female spade connector. It's on the firewall passenger side.

Yes sir, I’m positive I have the correct one. I will check for 12V on pins 1&2 of the connector at the FP this week. Thanks again for the help!

 

[VBR_DSM]

Yes sir, I’m positive I have the correct one. I will check for 12V on pins 1&2 of the connector at the FP this week. Thanks again for the help!

I confirmed that I’m getting 12V at the fuel pump connector when I jump the test connector with the battery. Now I know that I need to check the fuel pump.
However, I’m getting a lot of fast clicking behind the dash when I set the key to the “on” position. I’ve identified one of the sources to be the MPI relay located behind the radio on the passenger side, but there is more clicking coming from the firewall behind the gauge cluster, see the attached video. My guess it’s another relay?

It’s worth noting that I just replaced the original MPI relay with one from another running car. There is no change in behavior when using one MPI relay vs the other.
I’ve notice two things happen when the key is at the “on” position and the clicking is taking place.

1. The voltage at the fuel pump fluctuates between 0 and 9 volts, settling down around 5.20V, I doubt this is normal. See the second video and sorry about the baby noises .

2. The tachometer moves up between 1-2 grand. Not sure if this helps diagnose a potential cause.

Obviously, I need to take out the fuel pump and inspect it. It’s a brand new pump so maybe I didn’t connect the harness correctly.

Can you guys please help diagnose the issue with the clicking? Seems like this issue is fuel system related so even if I get the fuel pump fired up, I think I will have other issues stemming from this.
Thank you guys in advance!!

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Here’s the second video.

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[miliman13]

I confirmed that I’m getting 12V at the fuel pump connector when I jump the test connector with the battery. Now I know that I need to check the fuel pump.
However, I’m getting a lot of fast clicking behind the dash when I set the key to the “on” position. I’ve identified one of the sources to be the MPI relay located behind the radio on the passenger side, but there is more clicking coming from the firewall behind the gauge cluster, see the attached video. My guess it’s another relay?

It’s worth noting that I just replaced the original MPI relay with one from another running car. There is no change in behavior when using one MPI relay vs the other.
I’ve notice two things happen when the key is at the “on” position the the clicking is taking place.

1. The voltage at the fuel pump fluctuates between 0 and 9 volts, settling down around 5.20V, I doubt this is normal. See the second video and sorry about the baby noises .

2. The tachometer moves up between 1-2 grand. Not sure if this helps diagnose a potential cause.

Obviously, I need to take out the fuel pump and inspect it. It’s a brand new pump so maybe I didn’t connect the harness correctly.

Can you guys please help diagnose the issue with the clicking? Seems like this issue is fuel system related so even if I get the fuel pump to fire up, u feel I will have other issues stemming from this.
Thank you guys in advance!!

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Here’s the second video.

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Bad grounds “can” mimic this effect but im doubtful its that.

Maybe some background, what happened it just started doing this out of nowhere?

Clearly the power is intermittent cycling on and of , like a pwm signal vs a step input.

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Im terrible at interpreting electric diagrams from the manual but something in the circuit is acting up , do you have a spare ECU simply to eliminate as a culprit.

Also for the 2nd video , at first i was like that pump sounds way off…….. didn’t realize what i was hearing at first.

 

[VBR_DSM]

Bad grounds “can” mimic this effect but im doubtful its that.

Maybe some background, what happened it just started doing this out of nowhere?

Clearly the power is intermittent cycling on and of , like a pwm signal vs a step input.

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Im terrible at interpreting electric diagrams from the manual but something in the circuit is acting up , do you have a spare ECU simply to eliminate as a culprit.

Also for the 2nd video , at first i was like that pump sounds way off…….. didn’t realize what i was hearing at first.

I purchased the car not running. It had been sitting in a garage for over two years after the fuel pump went bad on the previous owner. He removed the fuel pump from the tank and left the hole open to air which resulted in gasoline solidifying into black sludge.
I replaced the gas tank, added a new pump, replaced the sending unit (driver side), cleaned all the lines from the tank to the fuel rail and I am just now trying to fire the engine up.
The clicking started happening as soon as I installed a battery and turned the key.
I hoped the MPI relay was the cause but like I said above, I replaced it with another one from a running car and no change in behavior.
The car wasn’t in pieces when I got it or anything like that, other than the back seat and fuel pump hanger. The rest of the car looks to be untouched besides a couple of bolt on parts such as exhaust, FMIC, aftermarket headlights, etc.

Unfortunately, I don’t have a spare ECU. I’m thinking that will be almost a last resort since they are pricy $$$.

What other relays or components could be at the firewall behind the gauge cluster? That’s where the second source of the clicking is coming from but I can’t find any information on what could be there.
Not sure if there are any other tests I could do to the circuit to pinpoint the issue? I’m not great at electrical stuff either so I’d appreciate any help!

 

[pauleyman]

At least open the ecu and inspect. Clicking mpi is a tell tale sign of possible bad ecu.

 

[VBR_DSM]

At least open the ecu and inspect. Clicking mpi is a tell tale sign of possible bad ecu.

I can do that. What do you recommend I look for when I open up the ECU? How would I know the ECU is bad just by looking at it?

Any idea where the clicking at the firewall is coming from?

 

[pauleyman]

I can do that. What do you recommend I look for when I open up the ECU? How would I know the ECU is bad just by looking at it?

Any idea where the clicking at the firewall is coming from?

Start here.

Articles & Journals

www.dsmtuners.com

More directly. Bulging capacitors. Obvious leaking capacitors. burnt traces, etc. Some stuff is just obvious if you know what a board should look like. Shouldn't have crap all over it etc.

 

[VBR_DSM]

At least open the ecu and inspect. Clicking mpi is a tell tale sign of possible bad ecu.

Well, I opened my ECU and this is what it looks like, see pictures attached. From the research I’ve done it looks like two capacitors have leaked which I’m guessing is the culprit for the MPI clicking.
Can you guys take a peek and let me know if anything else jumps out at you?

Do you guys think this ECU is salvageable or should I focus on looking for a replacement? Maybe ECMTuning can fix it?

Thanks for the recommendation @pauleyman!

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[miliman13]

Man this is the one time I wish I was wrong with my assumptions, but based on the PWM affect and how capacitors work, I guess it wasn’t a stretch.

I recommend reaching out to ECMTuning; IF they answer you, I believe they want you to pre-pay for inspection before they will communicate with you, assuming they are operational. I suspect they are.

If it’s only the caps and if it hasn’t damaged anything else, you can source those caps from several electronic Arduino kits, and you can replace them.

I even saw a specific listing in EBAY specifically for these ECUs based on the specified voltage and farads.

I recommend you support a business that has been phenomenal to the community.

if It was me I would probably repair since I have all the tools and have repaired many Arduinos in the past, also I can’t get a response from them, I like the idea of sending my ECUs in for inspection every few years …. But, yeah ..,

 

[VBR_DSM]

I recommend reaching out to ECMTuning; IF they answer you, I believe they want you to pre-pay for inspection before they will communicate with you, assuming they are operational. I suspect they are.

I would definitely not attempt to repair it myself. That’s way past my skill level I would be more comfortable if a professional did it.

I’ll reach out to them, hopefully they get back to me. Are they that difficult to get a hold of?

 

[99dsmer4g63]

Get on their website and order an ECU service request and follow the instructions listed on the website on where to send your ECU.

Kind of looks like a cap has been replaced once if I’m seeing right. Looks like a bad solder job too if I’m right. C203 looks like it’s leaking too.

I just sent my ECU out to them on Tuesday and was shipped back to me on Wednesday.

I don’t think they like to waste time communicating a lot. One time I ordered from them and was missing a piece I ordered. I reached out via email and explained the scoop.

They never responded however my part showed up the next day.

-Daniel

 

[miliman13]

Get on their website and order an ECU service request and follow the instructions listed on the website on where to send your ECU.

Kind of looks like a cap has been replaced once if I’m seeing right. Looks like a bad solder job too if I’m right. C203 looks like it’s leaking too.

I just sent my ECU out to them on Tuesday and was shipped back to me on Wednesday.

I don’t think they like to waste time communicating a lot. One time I ordered from them and was missing a piece I ordered. I reached out via email and explained the scoop.

They never responded however my part showed up the next day.

-Daniel

You’re not the only one to state they are fully operational, but a bit absent on communication.

But on their site In BOLD
It states to contact them first before selecting certain options like for example purchase of a v3 ECU. Which I was in the market for.

Either way just select the correct option and send it off, they have been very fast and reliable to me in the past.

I’m confident they will take good care of you.

 

[VBR_DSM]

You’re not the only one to state they are fully operational, but a bit absent on communication.

But on their site In BOLD
It states to contact them first before selecting certain options like for example purchase of a v3 ECU. Which I was in the market for.

Either way just select the correct option and send it off, they have been very fast and reliable to me in the past.

I’m confident they will take good care of you.

Copy that. I appreciate everyone’s input!
I’ll look into their website, send it out, and cross my fingers it’s salvageable. Thanks guys!