is this clutch disk still good?

[M1L3S]

I know the general rule of thumb is when engine or tranny is pulled, just change clutch, but im short on funds, This clutch came with the engine and tranny I purchased

its obviously not stock, any idea what it could be?

hows the life look?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[bryanwheat]

It looks to be in pretty decent shape still. As long as there are no chunks of material missing from the pucks than it should be fine.

 

[M1L3S]

it looks good it might be a act clutch

i was suprised to see a ACT flywheel. also does that look burned up ?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[bryanwheat]

The flywheel doesn't really look that bad at all.

 

[mchustle]

I'm not use to the extra flywheel bolt . The flywheel looks pretty much brand new to me or freshly resurfaced one, the clutch also seems to have plenty of life left in it. I would personally run them both, but if it is a act kit like I'm assuming then I would order a oem tob. People have mixed reviews on the act tobs, I know I had problems out of mine and switched it out for Oem.

 

[M1L3S]

I'm not use to the extra flywheel bolt . The flywheel looks pretty much brand new to me or freshly resurfaced one, the clutch also seems to have plenty of life left in it. I would personally run them both, but if it is a act kit like I'm assuming then I would order a oem tob. People have mixed reviews on the act tobs, I know I had problems out of mine and switched it out for Oem.

I've read about the t.o.b , I have a oem one from my stock tranny. I will be using, but the question I have is,(forgive me if it sounds like a noob move) should I just shim it anyway ?

I have two trannys. The one I bought with the motor set up, and the one I kect from my 99..

I test drove the tranny from the engine I purchased (found a lot of glitter type fluid when flushed It.

But on my 99 tranny it looked dirty and black, but no glitter and I know that's a good tranny ....

Sorry for the long winded post, but I was 99% done with my build. Had a buddy over to show it all off, and he looks at it and goes you need a cluth or your tranny shimed.

 

[My1GLaser]

You won't really know if the pivot ball needs shimmed til you install the tranny and see where the clutch fork sits. Then you take the tranny off and shim the ball as needed. http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclipsetech/clutch/armcentered.jpg

Pivot Ball Shimming - YouTube

 

[laserspeeddemon]

disc looks fine. Not sure about the flywheel.

Drag your finger nail from the outside to the inside of the mating surface. See if you nail catches on anything. Also take the flyhweel to a machine shop and measure the step.

 

[M1L3S]

is there a general thickness used to correct this issue ?

 

[My1GLaser]

I'm not exactly sure of the thickness, but I have used 2 washers in the past. I would imagine that a washer with the ID of the pivot ball stud is around .040-.050" thick. I only needed one the last time I did my clutch.

It depends on how much everything is worn ie; clutch fork, pivot ball, disc, FW, PP fingers. 1-2 washers is normal.


While its apart have the step checked like ^^ he said. It will have serious issues if its not in spec.

 

[boost97gst]

May want to also have the flywheel/clutch balanced while your at it. Ive not had that done personally but i know when it comes out next time im having a machine shop step flywheel and balance the assembly.

 

[M1L3S]

any good tips on re-installing the tranny ? would the car being level make it easier? taking it out was a nightmare!!

putting it in just sounds like hell!! i honestly feel it would have been both easier and faster to just pull the whole engine......(also make doing this clutch b.s. stuff alot easier as well)

any tips would be greatly appreciated!

 

[boost97gst]

You followed the manuals instructions right? basically you tilt the engine down. If you didnt remove 3 engine mounts then theres your problem. Im about to embark on this nightmare myself next weekend..... FML

 

[bryanwheat]

There is nothing that is a nightmare about installing a gst transmission. Those are a piece of cake and can be done without a transmission jack. It is easier with a jack, but it isn't needed like with a heavy awd transmission. I use studs for the bellhousing bolts to slide the transmission over. IT makes it 100 times easier.

 

[boost97gst]

There is nothing that is a nightmare about installing a gst transmission. Those are a piece of cake and can be done without a transmission jack. It is easier with a jack, but it isn't needed like with a heavy awd transmission. I use studs for the bellhousing bolts to slide the transmission over. IT makes it 100 times easier.

Ill tell you why its going to be tough, bryan. The PO must have stripped the rear roll stop bolts off and decided to WELD it in. You get what im saying? He welded the rear roll stop/engine mount to the chassis! Do you know what i have to do to get MY tranny out? Most likely pull the engine unless i can get to the bolts that hold the bracket on the block. Thats why its going to be tough, bryan..

 

[My1GLaser]

Hmmmm...I have never taken off any of my motor mounts when swapping AWD trannies and I'm on my 4th tranny swap thanks to my HX-35. Plus another couple times over the years to swap clutches & FW. The only one I remove is the one on top of the tranny. I had a FWD before my GSX and I can't remember any significant differences. I know the AWD FW is a tad smaller and I assume the bellhousing probably is too, but I would guess about 1/2" max.

OP, my point is that it should be able to be done with the engine straight. I took off some of the front subframe supports, but it was only 9 bolts total. I know the FWD subframe is somewhat different, but I can't remember how much exactly...

Take off the speed sensor, trans mount & shifter cable brackets. It needs to go in at a angle with the end case down about 30* lower than the bellhousing and cocked forward toward the radiator. Jack it up til the front diff housing gets past the subframe at the rear of the tranny on the firewall side. Then you roll it back toward the firewall, keep jacking it up and squeeze the bottom of the bellhousing past the PP. Once it goes past it, you can start leveling it out and slip the end case past the unibody frame in the wheelwell area. Hope that all makes sense.

 

[bryanwheat]

Ill tell you why its going to be tough, bryan. The PO must have stripped the rear roll stop bolts off and decided to WELD it in. You get what im saying? He welded the rear roll stop/engine mount to the chassis! Do you know what i have to do to get MY tranny out? Most likely pull the engine unless i can get to the bolts that hold the bracket on the block. Thats why its going to be tough, bryan..

You just unbolt the roll stop bracket from the transmission. You don't have to remove the mount bracket from the car. Unbolt the front and rear from the transmission and leave them bolted to the car. The front will mount and roll stop will come out when you remove the front to rear crossmember.

Hmmmm...I have never taken off any of my motor mounts when swapping AWD trannies and I'm on my 4th tranny swap .

Well on a 2g the front and rear roll stops bolt to the transmission so you won't be able to get the transmission out of the car without unbolting the mounts.

 

[My1GLaser]

Well on a 2g the front and rear roll stops bolt to the transmission so you won't be able to get the transmission out of the car without unbolting the mounts.

haha, oh a 2G. Yeah I missed that and I am not familiar with them at all

 

[redliner_x]

I don't mean to thread jack but earlier someone mentioned shims.. Has anyone shimmed then slave cylinder?

 

[bryanwheat]

I don't mean to thread jack but earlier someone mentioned shims.. Has anyone shimmed then slave cylinder?

The what way that the slave bolts on if you were to shim it than it would be further away from the fork. It wouldn't help anyways if you could get it closer because the travel will be the same.

 

[redliner_x]

I will make my own thread to discuss this.. I don't want to thread jack.