Is a logger a necessity with this set-up?

[91Bomb]

Got my sights on a stock 2g fwd a/t.

I'm trying to figure out if I can 'SAFELY' run 13lbs boost without a logger. Mods would be dp, high-flow cat, k+n, boost gauge, mbc. (nothing else is required to boost to 13 lbs is it?)

I was thinking if I leave the turbo solenoid valve in place the knock sensor will tell it to cut boost if knock is detected and o2 will retard timing and controls rich/lean conditions, right?
Are these engine 'fail-safes' just that? Can they be counted on to detect a lean condition and knock and provide protection from engine damage at a measely 2 lbs above stock?

I really don't want to get a logger -- if I do, I no doubt would be boosting much higher and constantly obsesing over the #'s. I definately plan on keeping the motor and trans stock thus the reason for a modest 2 lbs gain -- actually, if I saw 13 lbs WITH boost creep and settle back to 12 lbs I'd be happy. Does this sound safe without
that logger?

BTW, do the 8.5mm spark plug wires provide a NOTICEABLE difference over brand new stock wires and what is the cost difffence?

Greg

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

Got my sights on a stock 2g fwd a/t.

I'm trying to figure out if I can 'SAFELY' run 13lbs boost without a logger. Mods would be dp, high-flow cat, k+n, boost gauge, mbc. (nothing else is required to boost to 13 lbs is it?)

Yes, you can safely run 13psi, assuming your fuel filter isn't clogged to holy hell.

I was thinking if I leave the turbo solenoid valve in place the knock sensor will tell it to cut boost if knock is detected and o2 will retard timing and controls rich/lean conditions, right?
Are these engine 'fail-safes' just that? Can they be counted on to detect a lean condition and knock and provide protection from engine damage at a measely 2 lbs above stock?

The ECU reduces timing when knock is detected above 7 counts (at least on a 1G, 2g may be slightly different). It doesn't cut the boost, just retards timing, which in effect, reduces power. The ECU is programmed to protect the engine as much as possible. However, in extreme cases, it can only take one quick occurance of detonation to put a hole through a piston/block. But usually that happens at very high rpm's and with high power levels. I honestly doubt any major catastrophe will happen at 13psi.

I really don't want to get a logger -- if I do, I no doubt would be boosting much higher and constantly obsesing over the #'s. I definately plan on keeping the motor and trans stock thus the reason for a modest 2 lbs gain -- actually, if I saw 13 lbs WITH boost creep and settle back to 12 lbs I'd be happy. Does this sound safe without
that logger?

BTW, do the 8.5mm spark plug wires provide a NOTICEABLE difference over brand new stock wires and what is the cost difffence?

Greg

Get the logger. It is probably the MOST useful device you can buy for the car. Any time you get a check engine light, the logger will tell you immediately what the code is. Will also help you tune the car when you make mods. Case in point, ME. 3 yrs ago, my FWD DSM was running 13.70's. I added injectors, 2G MAS, fuel pump. I went to the track and ran 14.00! I was pissed. I bought a datalogger and after a solid month of tuning, while changing absolutely ZERO parts, I dropped my ET's from 14.00 down to a best of 12.80@109 on a small 16G fwd car. All because of the logger. It's just as important to have as a set of tools.

As for the wires, 8mm NGK's work just fine. $43 shipped from www.summitracing.com

 

[91Bomb]

Mike, thanks for the feedback. As far as checking codes I do that now with a votmeter on my 1g. I'm not sure if this can be done on the 2g with the voltmeter too. I see what you're saying on tuning issues with a logger and a 12.8 is awesome! I'll be stretching my budget if I buy a really clean 95-99 gs-t. My 1g came with 180 hp and I probably bumped that up to 200 with very limited mods. So, if I get the 2g (205hp) chances are I'll be happy with 13 lbs -- even if that's 13lbs from boost creep it'll get the car accelerating a little quicker and I'll be trying to level off at 12-12.5 lbs. Of course I'd like to run maybe 17psi on a s16g but with my lead foot running the car pretty hard almost every time out I don't think the motor would last too long and my pockets aren't deep enough to pay for all those broken parts -) A 2g should be a nice upgrade compared to my 1g that I've had the past 8 yrs. I never been to the track and don't plan to start going either but I have a lot of fun on the street with it.

 

[91Bomb]

The ECU reduces timing when knock is detected above 7 counts (at least on a 1G, 2g may be slightly different). It doesn't cut the boost, just retards timing, which in effect, reduces power.

You're forgetting that the wastegate solenoid valve cuts boost to 7lbs when the knock sensor tells it to. Greg

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

How is that possible when the spring in the gate is 9psi? Can't run lower than the spring setting.

 

[91Bomb]

How is that possible when the spring in the gate is 9psi? Can't run lower than the spring setting.

When I had trouble with my knock sensor I was limited to an even 7lbs. I read in the service manual that this is what's supposed to happen when the knock sensor detects knock -- it triggers the wastegate solenoid valve and boost is limited to 7 lbs.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

Were you able to verify via boost gauge that you had 7psi? Otherwise, I'm guessing you were running 9psi.

 

[91Bomb]

The stock boost gauge read 7lbs and it definately was lower than 9lbs because at the time I was running stock boost -- 9.9lbs I believe -- and it was way more than a 1lb drop.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

The stock boost gauge read 7lbs and it definately was lower than 9lbs because at the time I was running stock boost -- 9.9lbs I believe -- and it was way more than a 1lb drop.

The stock boost gauge is absolutely the worst and most inaccurate device on the car. In no way does it even come close to representing actual boost levels. You MUST have an aftermarket boost gauge in the car to accurately read boost levels.

 

[91Bomb]

The stock boost gauge is absolutely the worst and most inaccurate device on the car. In no way does it even come close to representing actual boost levels. You MUST have an aftermarket boost gauge in the car to accurately read boost levels.

okay.