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Irradical idle once reaching operating temperature

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Family XJ

Probationary Member
15
0
Jun 4, 2012
Jacksonville, North Carolina
1998 Spyder GS

Last Thursday we jumped in the car and started to back up and it acted like the front wheel was trying to run over a ball. So we pulled forward I got out and didn't see anything. So the wife backed up and it did this again. I figured the Alternator was going out since it had been squeeling for a while. I pulled the positive wire off while running and car about died and put it back on and it was fine then pulled it and the car died. So a quick trip to the parts store across the street and a new Alternator was put on. Squelling was gone. Started the car again and it started running real bad a gain.

Saturday morning I got a scanner and it said bad CPS. So off I went and got a CPS, timing belt and balancer belt and new motor mount. If your going in go in once and replace it at the same time. So I came home. Replaced it all and the car started and ran great. Actually better than it has since we have owned it. Drove around for a little bit then came home. No more codes either.

Got up Sunday and headed for the beach. Drove about 10 minutes. Ran in the store came out drove thourhg the BK drive through and then headed down the road. Drove it for about 30 minutes and then it hit again. Car cut out driving down the 4 lane. Pulled over and let it set a few minutes. Car started right back up. Drove for 7 seconds and it runs irradically and then dies. Called for a tow truck. We kept starting it and driving 7-8 seconds and then coasting as far as we could until the Wrecker showed up. Brought the car home and plugged the scanner in. It said Cam Sensor. Replaced cam sensor and it was running good until operating temperature. Same symptoms as before.

Only now no codes. Runs fine until hot then irradical idle and eventually dies. Shut off keys and restart and then 7 seconds it runs bad and dies. Saw someone with same issues and EGR fixed theirs. So I got a new EGR. Same issues. Went to my buddies and got his good coil packs and MAF and still same issues. So We are stumped. To keep this straight we have replaced

New
CPS
Timing belt, balancer belt,
Cam Sensor
EGR,
Coil packs,
MAF

I don't see any vaccuum leaks and if there was it should run bad contantly not after getting hot. So we are stumped. Anyone got any ideas? I can get a computer to test it all. Not sure what else to check since she runs great until its hot.
 
We haven't messedf with this thing in a while. We started again today just double checking things. We did have a guy spend about 5 hours on it and can't figure out anything different. We will keep messing with this for a while and if we don't find something soon its going to the shop
 
I've got a spyder gst and it's doing the exact same thing.. I also went through the whole replacing parts to diagnose but come up with nothing.. once upon a time i had a 99 Dodge Intrepid that went through this same mess(runs great till it gets to operating temp then sputters and dies) and it turned out to be the oil pressure switch..I just picked one up from autozone so as soon as i get a chance to switch them i will let you know..

Well that's not it either.. still stumped...
 
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