intake manifold question

[mTALONm]

im cleaning my intake manifold and a throttle body (there's a lot of sh*t in there). I got all new gaskets and i dont know if there is a specific tourque that i should apply to bolt everything back on.

 

[Sotarts]

Intake manifold-to-engine nuts/bolts:
8mm bolts: 11 - 14 ft-lbs
10mm bolts: 22 - 30 ft-lbs

Throttle body-to-air intake plenum bolts: 14 ft-lbs

This is the book I got all the info from (trust me, it will save you a lot of time once you start repairing more things):

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mitsubishi-Eclipse-Laser-Talon-haynes-manual_W0QQitemZ7994594637

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ECLIPSE-LASER-TALON-HAYNES-MANUAL_W0QQitemZ7993496092

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HAYN...CLIPSE-LASER-TALON-REPAIR_W0QQitemZ7993975311

 

[mTALONm]

thanks a lot, btw where can i buy a wrench that shows the torque

 

[MNGSX]

thanks a lot, btw where can i buy a wrench that shows the torque

I have like 5 tq wrenches... Even a snap on inch pound dial type.. I dont use a tq wrench on those.. On heads, rods, valve cover and other more critical things yes.. I have alot of wrenching time and can hit say 14 really really close by feel with normal hand tools.. I have checked with the tq wrench in the past...

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/BradBauer/engine/tb.html

I also recomend blocking off the FIAV... Makes cleaning easier next time becaue you dont lose like a gallon of coolant when you take the TB off again because the coolant lines are'nt connected anymore.

I also had two intakes around so I used studs in all 4 holes for the TB...

EGR block off is up to you but it will keep the intake and tb cleaner... Mild daily drivers that get smog checked or are just mild builds might want to keep it....

I'd go thru all the TB related VFAQ's while you are in there on the TB...
http://www.vfaq.com/FAQlocator-intake.html

 

[Sotarts]

thanks a lot, btw where can i buy a wrench that shows the torque

PepBoys sells a one for $20, 3/8" drive. It's 120 - 960 in-lbs though (that's 10 ft-lbs through 80 ft-lbs). Not a biggie, just multiply the ft-lbs by 12 and you have your inches. Example: 15 ft-lbs of torque x 12 (inches in a foot) = 180 in-lbs. You can buy a more expensive tool, but why bother?

This is the same exact one I have and PepBoys sell: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-8-...WRENCH-REVERSIBLE-120-960_W0QQitemZ4569242916

I also have this one, for bigger jobs (PepBoys sells this one as well): http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pitt...urque-Torque-Wrench-Tools_W0QQitemZ4568870845

 

[mTALONm]

thanks again

 

[Defiant]

None of those fasteners are generally tightened to a torque value. You just tighten them. It's a mechanic thing.

http://www.stealth316.com/2-3s-fastener-tips.htm

 

[tstkl]

so your saying that i can just tighten the bolts for the throttle body and my intake manifold on as tight as i want, like 50+ ft lbs.... i dont think soo... but would you say that my best guess at 20 lbs would be close enough?

 

[Sotarts]

20 is too much. The idea is to keep a seal without letting it rattle loose and not overtighten it. For those who don't work on cars for a living (who developed a feel) torque specs in repair manuals are what you need.