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installing a type s bov

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americanjebus

15+ Year Contributor
113
0
Mar 1, 2005
wenatchee, Washington
okay i have a 90 laser front wheel drive. i just got the type s bov and was wondering how to hook it up. i have it on the car but i just have that one vacume line from the stock bov going to it and there is a spot for a second vacume line and i was wondering what line goes to that. also i know you have to tune the bov and was wondering if any of you guys could help me since no manual or anything came with it. thanks
 
Tthe second spot stays unhooked. With the bolt on top almost off makes it easy to blow, the more you tighten it, the harder it gets to blow.
 
americanjebus said:
okay i have a 90 laser front wheel drive. i just got the type s bov and was wondering how to hook it up. i have it on the car but i just have that one vacume line from the stock bov going to it and there is a spot for a second vacume line and i was wondering what line goes to that. also i know you have to tune the bov and was wondering if any of you guys could help me since no manual or anything came with it. thanks
plug the vacume line that goes to the stock bov to the greddy bov. now for the second vacume nipple; it can be pluged with a vacume plug, or just left alone. to "tune" the bov all you need to do is make sure you dont get compressor surge and make sure it doesnt leak at high boost. You couldve really helped yourself if you wouldve "SEARCHED" but it aint no biggie. good luck :thumb:
 
How do I adjust my BOV correctly?

The "harder" the setting (the deeper the adjustment screw), the less prone the valve will be to being blown open and the greater the change in pressure needed to open it. Set too soft, the valve could possibly be blown open under high boost. Set too hard, the valve may flutter or not open at all. Any fluttering from too hard of a setting will be most noticeable during light throttle changes since there is only a small change in pressure on either side of the valve. The more you let off the gas and/or the more quickly you let off, the greater/sharper the change in pressure and the increased ability for the valve to open flutter-free. In short, for the very least potential valve flutter, adjust the spring as light as possible without it being blown open for your setup and boost level. The fluttering sound you will hear is also known as compressor surge and is bad news. So basically, loosen it up enough that you dont hear fluttering at very low throttle releases, but make sure its hard enough that it doesnt start blowing off boost. It shouldnt be hard to find this "neutral" spot. The fulttering is very noticeable and so is the valve blowing off boost. Go on a backroad where its you and the road (nice and quiet), carry the allen wrench and box wrench with you, and play with it till you are satisfied

What is compressor surge?

Compressor surge is when the air pressure after the compressor is actually higher than what the compressor itself can physically maintain. This condition causes the airflow in the compressor wheel to back up, build pressure, and sometimes stall. In cases of extreme surge, the thrust bearings of the turbo can be destroyed, and will sometimes even lead to mechanical failure of the compressor wheel itself. It is commonly described as a chuffing or fluttering sound depending on the severity. You will know it when you hear it
 
^^^^^ ummmmm.....he didnt ask any of this information bro.

The vaccum nipple that you want to use it the one that is on the purple portion on the bov. Tap that nipple with a vaccum line into an existing vaccum line - this helps the BOV valve open and release boost. As for the other nipple...if you cover it up with a cap or something similar, ive heard that it will be louder, but I have mine off and it doesnt seem to be doing anything...but I am venting with a blow thru setup..so I dont think it matters.
 
ericbev said:
How do I adjust my BOV correctly?

The "harder" the setting (the deeper the adjustment screw), the less prone the valve will be to being blown open and the greater the change in pressure needed to open it. Set too soft, the valve could possibly be blown open under high boost. Set too hard, the valve may flutter or not open at all. Any fluttering from too hard of a setting will be most noticeable during light throttle changes since there is only a small change in pressure on either side of the valve. The more you let off the gas and/or the more quickly you let off, the greater/sharper the change in pressure and the increased ability for the valve to open flutter-free. In short, for the very least potential valve flutter, adjust the spring as light as possible without it being blown open for your setup and boost level. The fluttering sound you will hear is also known as compressor surge and is bad news. So basically, loosen it up enough that you dont hear fluttering at very low throttle releases, but make sure its hard enough that it doesnt start blowing off boost. It shouldnt be hard to find this "neutral" spot. The fulttering is very noticeable and so is the valve blowing off boost. Go on a backroad where its you and the road (nice and quiet), carry the allen wrench and box wrench with you, and play with it till you are satisfied

What is compressor surge?

Compressor surge is when the air pressure after the compressor is actually higher than what the compressor itself can physically maintain. This condition causes the airflow in the compressor wheel to back up, build pressure, and sometimes stall. In cases of extreme surge, the thrust bearings of the turbo can be destroyed, and will sometimes even lead to mechanical failure of the compressor wheel itself. It is commonly described as a chuffing or fluttering sound depending on the severity. You will know it when you hear it

Great post.
I gave you some rep for it.
I learned a bit.
 
americanjebus said:
also i know you have to tune the bov and was wondering if any of you guys could help me since no manual or anything came with it. thanks

What is that then? Or am I the one seeing things? :cool:

Leave the lower nipple alone. Pretend its not there.
 
hereitcomes said:
^^^^^ ummmmm.....he didnt ask any of this information bro.

The vaccum nipple that you want to use it the one that is on the purple portion on the bov. Tap that nipple with a vaccum line into an existing vaccum line - this helps the BOV valve open and release boost. As for the other nipple...if you cover it up with a cap or something similar, ive heard that it will be louder, but I have mine off and it doesnt seem to be doing anything...but I am venting with a blow thru setup..so I dont think it matters.



Dont ever post crap like this again. If you are going to complain about someone else's thread you better make sure you check yours out before you hit submit! EricBEV's post was more knowledgeable then someone who heard or thinks stuff. Ericbev obviously knows what he is talking about here.

To the original poster, you could run a vaccum line from that lower nipple and tap into your lower intercooler pipe (if its a hardpipe) for better bov response. Of course you will have to drill and tap a nipple on to the lower intercooler pipe.:thumb: :talon:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209712&highlight=lower+nipple+on+greddy+bov
 
Bigglesworth87 said:
Dont ever post crap like this again. If you are going to complain about someone else's thread you better make sure you check yours out before you hit submit! EricBEV's post was more knowledgeable then someone who heard or thinks stuff. Ericbev obviously knows what he is talking about here.

To the original poster, you could run a vaccum line from that lower nipple and tap into your lower intercooler pipe (if its a hardpipe) for better bov response. Of course you will have to drill and tap a nipple on to the lower intercooler pipe.:thumb: :talon:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209712&highlight=lower+nipple+on+greddy+bov

Well I am terribly sorry then. I wont post my input anymore. Thanks a lot fellow DSM'er :thumb:
 
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