Installed Boost Gauge! Right PSI?

[Sik95TSI]

So I just finished installing my boost gauge (AutoMeter Ultra Lite Mechanical Boost Gauge) and it's reading 19/Vacuum and the press is 15PSI! my car is stock no mods on the motor what so ever! But! It goes to 15PSI then drops and stays at 14PSI? I'm pretty sure I have a leak somewhere or It's just not holding full boost? Any suggestions please! Thanks - Ryann

 

[Dert]

If its completly stock then yes you are correct you will have a leak...It will be your crappy stock plastic blow off valve. It is possible that the previous owner went through the "free mod" list and did the bcs restrictor removal to get a few extra psi. Pick up a 1G bov and ditch the stock 2G POS

 

[Absit]

If your gauge is accurate you have a hell of a healthy engine.

 

[dsm03]

If it boost to 15psi and drops to 14, sounds like boost spike.

But do a BLT. I wouldn't worry that much,.

 

[agentorange313]

sounds fine to me.

The stock 2gs with the t-25 ran close to 14-15 psi from the factory

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-thread-graveyard/276022-whats-stock-boost-99-gs-t.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/1893-stock-boost-merged-5-7-a.html

Also, it is not uncommon for turbos to loss psi as you max it out in every gear.

 

[Sik95TSI]

Ill definitely get on doing that BLT sometime tomorrow its to late right now! So 19/Vacuum is normal? I also don't have a stock BOV sorry i forgot to mention i have an ebay special I think? I got it from a buddy and it fits my car but I'm going to replace it though! Thanks - Ryann

 

[agentorange313]

idle vacuum should be from 20-22.

vacuum is a great indication, whether good or bad, engine performance.

--In the original post, when you say "it's reading 19/Vacuum and the press is 15PSI!" do you mean at idle your car reads 19/vacuum and when you press the gas it spikes to 15 psi? If so, what rpm is it reaching 15psi?

 

[Sik95TSI]

I also need to install my Innovate XD-16 StandAlone Wideband! I want to see what my AFR is! I can install that on my stock exhaust/o2 Sensor location right? Can it be Un-Installed and Re-Installed when i get my Down Pipe and Cat Back? Thanks - Ryann!

 

[agentorange313]

since you are running the stock ecu, you need to run the 1 if not 2 of the of the o2 sensors.

Is your car obd1 or obd2? If it is obd2 you have a rear o2 sensor, after the cat. You will need to keep both.

If you are installing the wideband, then get a o2 sensor bung from one of our supporting vendors and have it welded to the downpipe right before the flex section.

 

[Absit]

since you are running the stock ecu, you need to run the 1 if not 2 of the of the o2 sensors.

Is your car obd1 or obd2? If it is obd2 you have a rear o2 sensor, after the cat. You will need to keep both.

If you are installing the wideband, then get a o2 sensor bung from one of our supporting vendors and have it welded to the downpipe right before the flex section.

95's are OBD2, and the second O2 sensor only checks the cat, it's not required for the car to function properly, though it will throw a check engine light if it's missing. He can put his wideband O2 sensor in his front O2 sensor bung and use narrowband simulation if he uses the LC1.

 

[Sik95TSI]

95's are OBD2, and the second O2 sensor only checks the cat, it's not required for the car to function properly, though it will throw a check engine light if it's missing. He can put his wideband O2 sensor in his front O2 sensor bung and use narrowband simulation if he uses the LC1.

A little more detail please on using the narrowband simulation. Please! So i would tap into my stock o2 wire so my ECU is happy? Thanks - Ryann

 

[Absit]

That's correct, the software that comes with the LC1 lets you set up either analog output as narrowband or wideband, so you can run the narrowband sim to your front O2's ECU pin and the wideband to your rear O2's ECU pin (for logging) as well as to a gauge. When you get the software and instruction manual it'll be very clear.

 

[agentorange313]

95's are OBD2, and the second O2 sensor only checks the cat, it's not required for the car to function properly, though it will throw a check engine light if it's missing. He can put his wideband O2 sensor in his front O2 sensor bung and use narrowband simulation if he uses the LC1.

thanks for the info, Is it clear cut that all 94s were obd1 and all 95 were all obd2, or some 94s were obd2

If he is throwing a CEL then the car is not functioning properly. He is running the stock ECU so he has no way of checking CEL is anymore appear. This is just an opinion, but if the car throws any other CEL codes he/she wont notice because its always on from the cat delete.
Also you can purchase a spacer if you do delete you cat, to have the CEL not appear for rear cars.

That's correct, the software that comes with the LC1 lets you set up either analog output as narrowband or wideband, so you can run the narrowband sim to your front O2's ECU pin and the wideband to your rear O2's ECU pin (for logging) as well as to a gauge. When you get the software and instruction manual it'll be very clear.

best idea to go with right now in your position if you want to use everything thats stock. Also since you have a 2g, you have the luxury of getting wiring extension harness so you don't have the splice the stock engine harness.

 

[eligst21]

18-20 In Hg is fine for the vacuum. And as for the spike of 15, check for boost leaks and replace that bov. Chances are it is leaking. Also is your car completely stock, because you said it was but you forgot to mention the after market bov. There is a variety of things that would up the psi on our cars. Exhaust, hard pipes, mbc and other things. But if the car has stock everything but the aftermarket bov, then i would assume you to check boost leak and make sure all lines are on right.

 

[Sik95TSI]

That's correct, the software that comes with the LC1 lets you set up either analog output as narrowband or wideband, so you can run the narrowband sim to your front O2's ECU pin and the wideband to your rear O2's ECU pin (for logging) as well as to a gauge. When you get the software and instruction manual it'll be very clear.

Can I just drill a new whole and Weld the new bung? So the wideband has its own place and no need of tapping into wires? It would still be able to read AFR correct?

 

[agentorange313]

since you are running the stock ecu, you need to run the 1 if not 2 of the of the o2 sensors.

Is your car obd1 or obd2? If it is obd2 you have a rear o2 sensor, after the cat. You will need to keep both.

If you are installing the wideband, then get a o2 sensor bung from one of our supporting vendors and have it welded to the downpipe right before the flex section.

did you read my post?

 

[Sik95TSI]

18-20 In Hg is fine for the vacuum. And as for the spike of 15, check for boost leaks and replace that bov. Chances are it is leaking. Also is your car completely stock, because you said it was but you forgot to mention the after market bov. There is a variety of things that would up the psi on our cars. Exhaust, hard pipes, mbc and other things. But if the car has stock everything but the aftermarket bov, then i would assume you to check boost leak and make sure all lines are on right.

I forgot about the BOV! I do have parts but they are not installed yet!

did you read my post?

Yeah I did late though. Got It! Thanks - Ryann!

 

[eligst21]

I forgot about the BOV! I do have parts but they are not installed yet!
/QUOTE]

Ok. Its cool. Just its hard to help someone without all the information. I would boost leak test it and let us know what happens. And you need to weld the bung for the new o2 about 18 inches down from the turbo. You need to keep the original stock narrow band (which is the first o2) for the ecu to read it correctly. You can plug in the wide band there only if you have a way to compensate and change the ecu into thinking it in fact still has the narrow band. A way to do that, is if you have ecm link. Without it on a stock ecu, i would just weld in the new bung. Not worth the codes or the engine not running right.

 

[Sik95TSI]

I forgot about the BOV! I do have parts but they are not installed yet!
/QUOTE]

Ok. Its cool. Just its hard to help someone without all the information. I would boost leak test it and let us know what happens. And you need to weld the bung for the new o2 about 18 inches down from the turbo. You need to keep the original stock narrow band (which is the first o2) for the ecu to read it correctly. You can plug in the wide band there only if you have a way to compensate and change the ecu into thinking it in fact still has the narrow band. A way to do that, is if you have ecm link. Without it on a stock ecu, i would just weld in the new bung. Not worth the codes or the engine not running right.

Great Thanks everyone! - Ryann