Input on upgrade path

[tay97gst]

Ok so now that high school's over, and maintenance is done, im hoping to get all my upgrades situated so when the time comes i can feel comfortable buying everything. Here's everything I plan on getting, let me know if you have some suggestions. My plan's is to have a daily driver that can perform when it has to. I really don't want to have to touch internals since im pretty low on cash.

ECMlink
Innovate LC-1
NOW 20g
NOW 1050 fic injectors
FMIC (Best choice without having to remove crash bar?PR?)
walbro 255 rewired with AFPR
Boost Controller

Also, whats a safe daily psi to drive with a setup like this. I would love to be able to push it up to 22psi when i wanted. I think that's it for now.

 

[sek_phok]

a 225 walbro would hit the spot!
... I totally meant to put 255.

 

[tay97gst]

a 225 walbro would hit the spot!

Do you mean 255?Is it completely necessary? I really don't want to have to run a AFPR unless the setup requires it. Does an evo8 pump need an afpr?

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Do you mean 255?Is it completely necessary? I really don't want to have to run a AFPR unless the setup requires it. Does an evo8 pump need an afpr?

i ran my 255HP on stock regulator just fine for a few months.. then i noticed my tune changed slightly but it didnt hurt anything.... an AFPR is a good investment anyway. just another tuning tool. you can get the 255LPH and might not have issues.

 

[tay97gst]

Alright I guess it wouldnt hurt, they're not too expensive. Any other input on everything else i mentioned?

 

[My1GLaser]

Get the biggest inj you can afford if you are running ECMLink. It leaves you room to upgrade turbos in the future, which you inevitably will...

That turbo boosts fast. I could spin to 80 mph with no problems with my FWD, and a quick downshift on the freeway and I could spin going 70 mph. Maybe a turbo with a little more lag would be better unless you are better at throttle modulation than me

 

[tay97gst]

Get the biggest inj you can afford if you are running ECMLink. It leaves you room to upgrade turbos in the future, which you inevitably will...

That turbo boosts fast. I could spin to 80 mph with no problems with my FWD, and a quick downshift on the freeway and I could spin going 70 mph. Maybe a turbo with a little more lag would be better unless you are better at throttle modulation than me

haha oh the joys of FWD I read a 20g lags more than the 16g but thats getting too high of a price i think. I'm going for used or rebuilt anyway. Are there any other turbo suggestions in my price range?

 

[97gst5887]

I didn't spin to much when I was running an evo 3, unless I wanted to. I ran 15psi on stock Ecu, injectors, fpr and what not.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

haha oh the joys of FWD I read a 20g lags more than the 16g but thats getting too high of a price i think. I'm going for used or rebuilt anyway. Are there any other turbo suggestions in my price range?

a used 20g can be had for 3-500 dollars, my buddy got his for 450. just gotta keep an eye out for the deals. buying almost anything new besides holset now days is just ridicules.

 

[tay97gst]

alright so a 20g would suit me better? I was debating that earlier on. I dont want to run 15psi however. I would like to crank it up to 20+psi if i could.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

alright so a 20g would suit me better? I was debating that earlier on. I dont want to run 15psi however. I would like to crank it up to 20+psi if i could.

20g's like 30psi so do 16g's

 

[tay97gst]

20g's like 30psi so do 16g's

Is 30psi safe on stock internals though? I just don't want to prematurely break my engine which already has 110k.
Also, would a 16g install kit work on a 20g? Im under the impression i wouldn't have to change my setup if i went from 16g to 20g as far as manifold or anything right?

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Is 30psi safe on stock internals though? I just don't want to prematurely break my engine which already has 110k.
Also, would a 16g install kit work on a 20g? Im under the impression i wouldn't have to change my setup if i went from 16g to 20g as far as manifold or anything right?

Well you asked if the 20g suited your needs for 20+psi, i was saying yes it will. i cant comment on the stock bottom part cause mine is built and has ARPs... id think 25+psi would be pushing the stock head gasket and head studs. But then again there are people like Ostar motorsports who run 9s on a stock block

The oil lines for the 16g should work with the 20g IIRC. The only thing you are going to have to change out is toss the J pipe if you are going 20g because they are down facing turbos.

 

[Rsawd95dsm]

Id get 1050cc injectors and that should be good without going to e85 or balls out with a massive turbo

 

[tay97gst]

[/LEFT]oker1;153011712]Well you asked if the 20g suited your needs for 20+psi, i was saying yes it will. i cant comment on the stock bottom part cause mine is built and has ARPs... id think 25+psi would be pushing the stock head gasket and head studs. But then again there are people like Ostar motorsports who run 9s on a stock block

The oil lines for the 16g should work with the 20g IIRC. The only thing you are going to have to change out is toss the J pipe if you are going 20g because they are down facing turbos.

Ok thanks bud. Yeah i dont think i'd push it too far with the psi. So are you saying that the 20g just doesnt need the jpipe at all or is there something else i need to get?

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Ok thanks bud. Yeah i dont think i'd push it too far with the psi. So are you saying that the 20g just doesnt need the jpipe at all or is there something else i need to get?

20G will not need the J pipe unless you find some wacky 16g-esque top firing compressor cover (which do exist. everything else is still MHI and i dont BELIEVE there is a different oil restriction needed. so yes the 16g and 20g oil lines are theoritically the same thing.

 

[tay97gst]

20G will not need the J pipe unless you find some wacky 16g-esque top firing compressor cover (which do exist. everything else is still MHI and i dont BELIEVE there is a different oil restriction needed. so yes the 16g and 20g oil lines are theoritically the same thing.

ok With the VSRF FMIC you have, could you keep the crash bar? And also, because ive never asked, there is an option of a jpipe with the vsrf fmic. Would this be the same jpipe that you just said i wouldnt need for the 20g?

 

[Archer Fabrications]

ok With the VSRF FMIC you have, could you keep the crash bar? And also, because ive never asked, there is an option of a jpipe with the vsrf fmic. Would this be the same jpipe that you just said i wouldnt need for the 20g?

you have to either cut the crash beam or toss it, i cut mine, then got in a wreck and now i dont have one . the J pipe for the VRSF kit is for a 16g or 14B you will not need that for a 20G

by the way, an FP red is a "20g" according to some members

 

[Tsmith]

Would recommend a short route intercooler piping since you are going that route now. One of the things I wish I had done to start.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Would recommend a short route intercooler piping since you are going that route now. One of the things I wish I had done to start.

nice avatar, ha. the VRSF FMIC is infact short route.

 

[tay97gst]

you have to either cut the crash beam or toss it, i cut mine, then got in a wreck and now i dont have one . the J pipe for the VRSF kit is for a 16g or 14B you will not need that for a 20G

by the way, an FP red is a "20g" according to some members

Ok thanks, so cut it like in jjrocks video? P.R. FMIC install and bumper guide - YouTube I can live with that. I like the VSRF fmic cause it's not in the 300's