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input about rear axle

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juanjose

15+ Year Contributor
74
0
Jul 8, 2007
miami, Florida
Well i need input in this, the problem i have is the my drivers rear axle is stock together with the hub assembly; i already put pb blaster and heated red hot with a torch and nothing so my question is. I was thinking on taking the hole knucke with the axle and get itout with a press what do u guys think? thanks on any thoughts.
 
That's one way. Another would be to rent the extra heavy duty hub puller shown here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/235884-need-help.html. I used it on the front one but I'm sure it would work on the back also. Use this exact one (extra heavy duty one for truck hubs). I rented one from a place that rents tools for autos and trucks - just call and ask for hubPuller CTA4320 with 1 Inch Screw. And keep axel nut on end to prevent mushrooming. Normal hub pullers may not work on really stuck hubs (mine broke).
 
Oh man! I had to do that to my 95 TSi, what a pain. The method that ended up working for me was pulling the knuckle/axle and clamping it in the vise...hub side up. We then proceeded to "shock" the driveshaft by heating it until it was glowing then cooling it rapidly with water....repeating this about 9-10 times. That plus air hammer = victory! Good luck man!
 
The removal of the hub and using heat is ok but you WILL have to replace the bearing in the hub as the heat will destroy the bearing and dust seals. The thing you can try first before you use a press and lots of heat is to get a long barrel air hammer and a blunt bit and thread the nut for the axle on the end enough to support the tip of the bit without sliding off the end of the axle. Then hammer on it in spurts of 5 -7 seconds until it frees up. Using this method in conjunction with pb blaster (soaking) works every time. Usually other methods end up "mushrooming" the end of the axle making it unusable, so be careful and goodluck .
 
I ended up needing to replace the hub and axle. I used heat, PB blaster, a sledge, a hub puller, and even a 15 ton press to no avail.

The rear axle came through the hole in the spindle without a problem. When I did a front wheel bearing a few nights ago (3 out of 4 have gone bad in the last year), the axle again wouldn't budge. I figure I'd do the same thing as last time and just pull it all out in 1 piece. On the front, the hole in the spindle is smaller than the cup on the axle. I ended up grinding the cup down with a bench grinder then a dremel to get the front one out.

Satan will ask for an arm, a leg, and your first born child for a wheel bearing/hub. I got the TIMKEN brand one off rockauto.com for $90 or something like that. My dad uses TIMKEN bearings at his work all the time. If they work in 100+ ton presses, I'm willing to bet they'll work on my car.

EDIT: And remember... anti-seize is your friend. Use it liberally on the splines when you re-assemble it.
 
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