Robby Camero
15+ Year Contributor
- 101
- 0
- Oct 27, 2003
-
Toronto,
ON, Canada
I knew doing so many mods at once over the winter would end up biting me in the ass! I got some starting issues so I'll tell the story as best I can and hopefully you guys can give some insight to my problems.
Fist off I'll tell you what my big related changes are in order of what importance I see them being.
MAF-T and GM MAF
680 cc Rochester injectors (new)
Battery relocation
HKS 272 regrinds
Stevetek high flow fuel delivery system
Aeromotive AFPR
Other info you should know is while relocating the battery, I cleaned up the wiring harnesses under the hood by cutting out any plugs which I didnt need any more such as the fuel emmisions, BCS, and all the AC stuff. I also ran a 4 gauge wire directly into that MPI fuse box which used to sit on top of the batterys positive post. I ran a 4 gauge wire from the trunk to a power block under the hood. Anything under the hood that used to be connected to the positive side of battery is now running off that power block. I did the same for the negative with its own power block. All voltages are what they should be and all grounds are where they are supposed to be and then some.
I used to run RX-7 injectors but now have the Rochestors which are "supposed" to be plug and play so I had to re install a resistor pack.
I also used to run the car with the fiav and isc blocked, but Filled the fiav port with silicone, rtv sealed the tb back together and planned on using my isc again.
My car has no emmisions, only the two vaccume lines from intake manifold are used to operate BOV and afpr (boost gauge)The lines on the TB are "looped"
Now, the problems are it wont start. It will some times but it smells like gas and sounds like its only running on two cylenders. Theres no back firing but as soon as I give it gas, it dies. ALSO, I hear the injectors clicking viciously while the motor is running and also they click for a few seconds after it dies. (sounds like a drum roll) I some times get code 41 (injector circuit) and some times I dont. Either way, the car runs the same.
I have tried 3 different resistor packs, checked each injector plug with a volt meter for power when engine is off and checked the ground pin while engine is idleing crappy and I get voltage there. The resistor packs check out too. I have played with each wire while its stubling and played with the resistor pack harness as well and no change, even though some times I get the code and some times I dont.
I have tried 2 ECU's and one of them are from a running car and both give same results.
I thought I might have made a booboo when installing the cams so I took the CAS off and rotated the thingy 180 degrees thinking I might have mistakenly moved it during the install. This seems to make th eengine run a LITTLE better but not much. It wont die as soon this way but still sounds like its misfiring, running on only a couple of cylenders and injectors keep drumming their weird beat during and after car dies.
I got lots of spark and yes the plugs are on right.
I eliminated the MAF problem because I managed to log readings while it stumbles. I tried two mafs and both give same results.
I tried the RPM wire attached and unatached from the MAFT. I played with the base idle dial while the engine stubles and no change.
This sounds like an electrical problem with my injector circuit but have NO IDEA how to trace the source if it is the problem.
Need ideas for trouble shooting! I'm really lost now and ran out of ideas to try. Please tell me if I am missing something.
Thanx in advance
Fist off I'll tell you what my big related changes are in order of what importance I see them being.
MAF-T and GM MAF
680 cc Rochester injectors (new)
Battery relocation
HKS 272 regrinds
Stevetek high flow fuel delivery system
Aeromotive AFPR
Other info you should know is while relocating the battery, I cleaned up the wiring harnesses under the hood by cutting out any plugs which I didnt need any more such as the fuel emmisions, BCS, and all the AC stuff. I also ran a 4 gauge wire directly into that MPI fuse box which used to sit on top of the batterys positive post. I ran a 4 gauge wire from the trunk to a power block under the hood. Anything under the hood that used to be connected to the positive side of battery is now running off that power block. I did the same for the negative with its own power block. All voltages are what they should be and all grounds are where they are supposed to be and then some.
I used to run RX-7 injectors but now have the Rochestors which are "supposed" to be plug and play so I had to re install a resistor pack.
I also used to run the car with the fiav and isc blocked, but Filled the fiav port with silicone, rtv sealed the tb back together and planned on using my isc again.
My car has no emmisions, only the two vaccume lines from intake manifold are used to operate BOV and afpr (boost gauge)The lines on the TB are "looped"
Now, the problems are it wont start. It will some times but it smells like gas and sounds like its only running on two cylenders. Theres no back firing but as soon as I give it gas, it dies. ALSO, I hear the injectors clicking viciously while the motor is running and also they click for a few seconds after it dies. (sounds like a drum roll) I some times get code 41 (injector circuit) and some times I dont. Either way, the car runs the same.
I have tried 3 different resistor packs, checked each injector plug with a volt meter for power when engine is off and checked the ground pin while engine is idleing crappy and I get voltage there. The resistor packs check out too. I have played with each wire while its stubling and played with the resistor pack harness as well and no change, even though some times I get the code and some times I dont.
I have tried 2 ECU's and one of them are from a running car and both give same results.
I thought I might have made a booboo when installing the cams so I took the CAS off and rotated the thingy 180 degrees thinking I might have mistakenly moved it during the install. This seems to make th eengine run a LITTLE better but not much. It wont die as soon this way but still sounds like its misfiring, running on only a couple of cylenders and injectors keep drumming their weird beat during and after car dies.
I got lots of spark and yes the plugs are on right.
I eliminated the MAF problem because I managed to log readings while it stumbles. I tried two mafs and both give same results.
I tried the RPM wire attached and unatached from the MAFT. I played with the base idle dial while the engine stubles and no change.
This sounds like an electrical problem with my injector circuit but have NO IDEA how to trace the source if it is the problem.
Need ideas for trouble shooting! I'm really lost now and ran out of ideas to try. Please tell me if I am missing something.
Thanx in advance
BTW- You car is one of the cleanest 1G's I have ever seen! Absolutely Beautiful!
