I'm confused on what's going on.

[Jiggalude]

The way I'm doing my boost leak test now is right on the side of the turbo. I pressurize the system and then look for leaks obviously. If the car is warm and at normal operating temperature will air come out of the valve cover nipple and the PCV valve? What about the dipstick?

 

[91AWDGSX1G]

It should not. I have done this a few times recently, is your throttle plate open for some reason, it should be closed unless the position sensor is opened to much for some reason? Take a multimeter and measure resistance, once it barely makes continuity, that should be the adjustment. The value should be about 0 ohms, if its more you may need to clean it http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/356912-idle-position-sensor.html Good luck!

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

First, start your BLT at the throttle body. Fix all the leaks until it holds your desired pressure, then move to the intercooler inlet or turbo inlet.

Second, don't "look of obvious leaks". You won't find them. You need to get a spray bottle full of soapy water and spray it anywhere there could be a leak (gaskets, seals, couplings, etc) and look for bubbles.

Third, I don't like the warm engine technique, its just a great way to burn yourself. I do my BLTs when the engine is cool. You do want to make sure the your valves are closed so the pressurized air doesn't escape through the exhaust. Turn your crank until your cam timing marks are aligned and then turn it clockwise 6 more teeth.

Hope this helps!

 

[Jiggalude]

I did do it that way at first but I'm still confused as to why I would be getting pressure coming out of the crankcase. This isn't supposed to happen correct? What am I doing wrong that would allow this to happen? The head was just replaced including new valve seals. The TB isn't open because I just replaced the O rings and I know for sure that it's shut.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

I did do it that way at first but I'm still confused as to why I would be getting pressure coming out of the crankcase.

PCV valves are common spots for boost leaks. If yours is leaking, guess where its leaking into... the crankcase. A cheap and easy solution is to add a check valve between your PCV and intake manifold.

Hope this helps!

 

[Jiggalude]

Well right now since my PCV valve was leaking I have it completely out of the valve cover and also I am running the nipple on the side of the valve cover open as well. I took the car out for a spin and got on it pretty good and it was smoking at WOT but no other time. Is that my turbo?

 

[steve]

It could be. Did you clean the IC and piping after disconnecting the PCV. If you had been blowing oil into the intake for a while it could be full of junk.

 

[Jiggalude]

No I didn't clean anything. Maybe it could still be cleaning itself out. It didn't smoke at startup after it sat for a day, and it didn't smoke at idle either. I'm hoping I can finally find the last of these boost leaks tomorrow. But are you supposed to have air coming out of the valve cover when you do a boost leak test? I would assume you do since when the car is running you can feel air coming out of the PCV valve and the nipple on the side of the valve cover.

 

[steve]

When the car is running it's normal to have some pressure in the crankcase but you shouldn't have any noticeable pressure during the boost leak test. If you test at the throttle elbow that eliminates any possible leakage from the turbo to the oil pan.

 

[Jiggalude]

Ok so if i do my test at the throttle body intake elbow I won't have any pressure in the crankcase. But if I do it on the inlet of the turbo it can come up through the oil pan into the crankcase and out the valve cover?

 

[steve]

Please spend a few seconds thinking about what's going on.

It's still possible for you to get air in the crankcase/rocker cover when you test at the throttle elbow if air is leaking past the valve guides and valve seals, or past the rings but they shouldn't leak much even cold.

I suggested you move closer to the intake manifold to remove a few possible leakage paths from the test when compared to testing at the turbo. You'll still have to test again at the turbo until you find all your leaks.

 

[And_44]

Is there another supplier for those check valves? 22.00 for shipping is a bit rediculous for 2 check valves.

NVM found out why it was so pricey, I had put in 30 and then another 2 so 32 total. DUH!!!

Been awake for awhile time for sleepy.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Is there another supplier for those check valves? 22.00 for shipping is a bit rediculous for 2 check valves.

NVM found out why it was so pricey, I had put in 30 and then another 2 so 32 total. DUH!!!

Been awake for awhile time for sleepy.

Haha that's funny. The shipping is still expensive for what it is but it's more liek $7 or something. It's still worth it.