i want to replace all the belts and cam gears and pulleys. . .

[98FWDSM]

ok, like the title says, i just hit 110k miles and my belts are squeaking pretty bad so i am going to replace them all and i was wondering everything that i would need, 2 cam gears, a timing belt, but im not sure what pulley/s and other belts that i would need. this is going on a 98 GST

Thanks

 

[leet]

Why would you need new gears and pulleys? Just replace the belts, unless the pulleys are damaged (unlikely).

 

[98FWDSM]

well i wanted the AEM adjustable timing cam gears and i figured that it would just help overall since i am pretty sure they are the same ones from the factory....will this help performance wise??

 

[leet]

They may help slightly, but I do not think it would be enough of a gain to justify the purchase price. Your money could be better spent elsewhere!

 

[ruf_round_edges]

I would recommend buying a new power steering belt, balance shaft belt, and a hydraulic tensioner. This is what the guy at the mitsu dealer advised when I did my timing belt replacement. He said the idler pulleys and such are not necessary, but you can replace those as well. Hope this helps.

Will

 

[igopoopy]

no need for cam gears unless you get cams
if your geting pullys might as well up grade http://www.dsmtuners.com/parts/default.php?cPath=3_134_85

 

[98FWDSM]

this was one of the reasons that i thought i would get new pulley....this was taken off of machv's website

You do the math. Factory crank pulley: 6 pounds. Our lightweight underdrive pulley: 1.8 pounds. (It's like a diet plan for your motor!) Smaller diameter means your motor works less hard to turn your accessories

 

[leet]

this was one of the reasons that i thought i would get new pulley....this was taken off of machv's website

You do the math. Factory crank pulley: 6 pounds. Our lightweight underdrive pulley: 1.8 pounds. (It's like a diet plan for your motor!) Smaller diameter means your motor works less hard to turn your accessories

The OEM unit is dampened. MachV's unit is not.

I would just stick with the OEM piece. Like I stated above, you could put that money elsewhere for larger gains in power.

"Smaller diameter means your motor works less hard to turn your accessories" - What kind of grammar is that? :laugh:

 

[98FWDSM]

so basically all i need is a power steering belt, a balance shaft belt, a hydraulic tensioner and a timing belt??...i was planning on getting one of the "super strong" timing belts, is this a good one or is OEM efficient or what?

Thanks all for the help!

 

[Injected]

The rotational mass that is attatched to the motor has a lot to do with performance. There is a formula for calculating rotational mass. This first part is from their Project Focus ZX3:

"Since rotational inertia is proportional to the square of the radius of the rotating object, it should be obvious early on that something small like a crank pulley will have dramatically less rotational inertia than something big like a flywheel. If you plug in the stock pulley radius (2.6 in.), weight (3.2 lbs), the gear ratio in first gear (3.667:1) the final-drive gear ratio (3.82:1) and the radius of a stock 195/60-15 tire (12.1 in.), the formula predicts the equivalent of another 14.5 lbs from the rotaional inertia of the pulley. That drops to 4.9 lbs in second gear, and gets even less significant as you continue to shift."

If you read that article you will also learn the benifit of the Underdrive pulleybeing that of a smaller diameter.

"The stock crank pulley is 5.2 inches in diameter, so for every rotation, it moves 16.3 inches of belt. (Get it? 16.3 inches is the circumference of the pulley, and since the belt wraps around the outside of the pulley, that's how much the belt gets moved.) The Unorthodox Racing pulley we installed is only 4.15 inches, so for the same revolution, only 13 inches of belt get yanked through. With the belt moving more slowly, all the accessories move more slowly, and less power is lost to the accessories."

Buschur offers an underdrive that is dampened.

In addition, adjustable camgears are a great idea. Factory cam settings are for emmissions and have a wide range of tolerances. This is another SCC article (Suck, Squish, Bang, Blow: Part 5.

"Cam timing -
Most cars have their cam timing set at the factory for minimum emissions; production of maximum power is a secondary goal. As we explained in the third segment of this series, most production camshafts are designed for minimum overlap with a wide lobe separation angle to reduce hydrocarbon emissions and to ensure a smooth and stable idle. If power is your priority, a few horsepower is usually available to those who are willing to spend a little time with tuning. Adding little bolt-ons like air intakes and headers can also change the optimal cam timing that your car prefers...Another interesting fact is that almost all aftermarket and many stock cams are usually ground a degree or two off from the spec that they are supposed to be ground to. This is normal variation of tolerances in production. Dialing in the cam timing allows the tuner to compensate for these slight errors. Often there are a few hp just waiting to be unleashed by this alone."

And now that you know the facts, the idea of replacing all of the pulleys and cam gears will save a lot of rotational mass (better throttle response), the accessories are underdriven (freeing more power), and if you tune you can find the optimal settings for your setup (unlikely, but then when you get your cams you will be ready to tune for them). You may as well replace all of them while you are in there. The only issue is cost. I think you can get Fidanza cam gears for $240 a set shipped from extremepsi.com; the UD crankpulley is kind of expensive with the dampener but don't get one without because you will have uneven wear on your bearings.

I hope I have provided you with enough actual information to make an educated decision...Good Luck

 

[Sotarts]

The rotational mass that is attatched to the motor has a lot to do with performance. There is a formula for calculating rotational mass. This first part is from their Project Focus ZX3:

"Since rotational inertia is proportional to the square of the radius of the rotating object, it should be obvious early on that something small like a crank pulley will have dramatically less rotational inertia than something big like a flywheel. If you plug in the stock pulley radius (2.6 in.), weight (3.2 lbs), the gear ratio in first gear (3.667:1) the final-drive gear ratio (3.82:1) and the radius of a stock 195/60-15 tire (12.1 in.), the formula predicts the equivalent of another 14.5 lbs from the rotaional inertia of the pulley. That drops to 4.9 lbs in second gear, and gets even less significant as you continue to shift."

If you read that article you will also learn the benifit of the Underdrive pulleybeing that of a smaller diameter.

"The stock crank pulley is 5.2 inches in diameter, so for every rotation, it moves 16.3 inches of belt. (Get it? 16.3 inches is the circumference of the pulley, and since the belt wraps around the outside of the pulley, that's how much the belt gets moved.) The Unorthodox Racing pulley we installed is only 4.15 inches, so for the same revolution, only 13 inches of belt get yanked through. With the belt moving more slowly, all the accessories move more slowly, and less power is lost to the accessories."

Buschur offers an underdrive that is dampened.

In addition, adjustable camgears are a great idea. Factory cam settings are for emmissions and have a wide range of tolerances. This is another SCC article (Suck, Squish, Bang, Blow: Part 5.

"Cam timing -
Most cars have their cam timing set at the factory for minimum emissions; production of maximum power is a secondary goal. As we explained in the third segment of this series, most production camshafts are designed for minimum overlap with a wide lobe separation angle to reduce hydrocarbon emissions and to ensure a smooth and stable idle. If power is your priority, a few horsepower is usually available to those who are willing to spend a little time with tuning. Adding little bolt-ons like air intakes and headers can also change the optimal cam timing that your car prefers...Another interesting fact is that almost all aftermarket and many stock cams are usually ground a degree or two off from the spec that they are supposed to be ground to. This is normal variation of tolerances in production. Dialing in the cam timing allows the tuner to compensate for these slight errors. Often there are a few hp just waiting to be unleashed by this alone."

And now that you know the facts, the idea of replacing all of the pulleys and cam gears will save a lot of rotational mass (better throttle response), the accessories are underdriven (freeing more power), and if you tune you can find the optimal settings for your setup (unlikely, but then when you get your cams you will be ready to tune for them). You may as well replace all of them while you are in there. The only issue is cost. I think you can get Fidanza cam gears for $240 a set shipped from extremepsi.com; the UD crankpulley is kind of expensive with the dampener but don't get one without because you will have uneven wear on your bearings.

I hope I have provided you with enough actual information to make an educated decision...Good Luck

Very good post.

 

[Injected]

Very good post.

Thanks... I try.

 

[ArticNemesis]

While you are doing the timing belt, replace the water pump!

 

[Injected]

While you are doing the timing belt, replace the water pump!

ALWAYS!!!