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How to Remark 4g63 2.0l Cam Gears for 2.4l Engines

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Atuca

Supporting Member
1,145
303
Jan 6, 2007
Central Valley, California
I understand that with adjustable cam gears, lining up the "marks" is quite trivial. Especially with the case of Fidanzas where 12 degrees of adjustability means I could skip 2-3 teeth and STILL get my car timed correctly.

However, perhaps it is the type of person I am, but while I got the engine out, I would rather redo a timing belt now and not need to degree my cams 10+ degrees, by simpily rotating the whole cam one tooth forward if need be, and only adjusting 1-2 degrees.

As I understand it, people have been known to just remark their 2.0 cam gears with a 2.4 gear. My question is, based off ExtremePSI's photo of a stock 2.4 cam gear, it appears to me that the new timing mark is one half a tooth forward in the clockwise position of the standard 2.0 gear.

2.4:
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2.0:
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While doing my timing belt on my G4CS (6 Bolt 2.4 for those who don't know), at the half a tooth mark, my cam gear still tried to rotate counter clockwise one tooth just as explained in the FSM. If my assumtions are right with one half tooth forward, than I believe my "base" timing/cam degreeing is correct. The engine turned 6 times, everything still lines up, no valves hitting, nice and smooth.

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The simple question in the end: Is remarking 2.0 cam gear one half tooth in the clockwise direction the proper spot to get it to properly line up on a 2.4 motor?
 

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This is exactly how i Did mine on my HKS gears. The picture showing the stock 2.0L marks offset from one another is exactly how my hks cam gears look. I even went ahead and retarded my exhaust a couple of degrees. I did not degree in my cams and I just dropped them in staight up utilizing a protractor swing arm. I know its a scary guess, but I was fairly confident that I had everything in a safe spot. LOL 10.4s @ 142 @ 31 psi is not that bad for its 2nd time out at the track in 09... So I guess I did something right.ROFL
 
I do plan to degree the cams today (waiting on a fedex shipment that is showing up today atm) but while waiting in the house, I'm hoping for some verification from someone who had/has the 2.4 gears to line up with a 2.0 physically and check the marks.


Although I do feel better knowing yours lined up the same way Turbo Monk3y :)
 
so you just moved the exhaust cam 1/2 tooth? im wondering what to do also. ive almost got mine done and im working on doing the timing belt and gears. i have pics in my profile.
 
My beliefe is half a tooth forward on both intake and exhaust cam. If you notice in my picture, if the exhaust moved half a tooth, and the intake moved half a tooth (by half a tooth I mean instead of being in a "valley", the mark would be on the "hill", or visa versa) they would be perfectly lined up and even with the surface of the head, my crankshaft sprocket lines up, and my oil pump lines up.

I don't know if it is possible for me to be wrong, but than again, it might be :p This was my first timing belt ever, why couldn't it NOT be a 6 bolt swap 2.4l for the first time ROFL

That is the purpose of this thread though ;)
 
I do plan to degree the cams today (waiting on a fedex shipment that is showing up today atm) but while waiting in the house, I'm hoping for some verification from someone who had/has the 2.4 gears to line up with a 2.0 physically and check the marks.


Although I do feel better knowing yours lined up the same way Turbo Monk3y :)

I did that as well. Before I started anything I laid the 2.4L cam gear on the table. Then got a steel dowel for the cam alignment hole. I then laid the 2.0L cam gear on top of the 2.4L gear and used the perfectly fitting steel dowel into both alignment holes. Then I aligned the teeth 100% and checked the marks. The 2.4L gear is 1/2 tooth advanced. I even marked in between the valley on my HKS gears and it lines up nicely just like in your picture.
 
Alright than, if its half a tooth, the cam marks would line up perfectly as set, but both 2.0 cams would need to be degreed 3.5* advance to line up in a stock configuration right?

I tried to degree the cams without the solid lifter, a dial gauge held by locking pliers sitting on top of the head, and a printed paper degree wheel off google.

In therory, I think it would have worked if it wasn't for the lifter, but I don't have (or didn't keep my old lifters) to turn into a solid lifter, and I got to get this engine running by next week. I will have to properly degree them in at a later time now.

For now, I just want to make sure I don't bend valves; I'll degree and get my extra 10-20 HP later.
 
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