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How to make the stereo stay on while car cranks,instead of on and off at startup?

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Zero Banger

15+ Year Contributor
67
0
Feb 3, 2004
Portland, Oregon
I am trying to make the stereo stay on while the car is cranking, instead of the stereo toggling on and off at startup.

I would like to find the circuits in the fuse box which are charged without loss of power at crank?

Does anyone know which circuits in the fuse box are charged while at crank, i.e. fuel pump and ecu.

I do not wish to use critical systems circuits like the fuel pump or ecu if I can avoid it, as it just seems like a bad idea. What other system would be charged at crank that would be sufficient to run a stereo in this manner as a accessory line which would still turn the stereo on and off with the car, but would not have a momentary loss in power as the ignition is swept from acc to startup?

I wish to bypass the stock circuit and use a different circuit which is capable of sustaining the extra load of the stock stereo system with a standard aftermarket HU, if possible.


This is for a 97 Mitsubishi eclipse
 
I will though, I am hoping someone with some electrical experience with this car will speak up and know from experience and having good knowledge of the systems of this car, could advise me as to which ones will be the "BEST" to use for my application.


I can easily find a circuit that will work for my purpose, I am looking for advise as to which would be the most likely not to give me trouble in the future, or circuits I should avoid for some unknown reason by me.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Is there any reason why you want to do this? The reason most of your accessories dim or shut off while the car is cranking is because the starter needs that power. By tapping into a continuously powered source, you're essentially robbing your car of the amps it needs to get going; that puts more stress on the battery and the electrical system in general.

I honestly wouldn't recommend tapping into such a source unless it's for a those self-calibrating gauges that require it.
 
^

Exactly the reasons I wish to have someone with advanced knowledge of the power systems of this car advise me as to the safest method to tap into the existing systems without harming them, or at least minimizing my chances for something unforeseen by me to go wrong.

I am going to do to do this one way or another, I just wish to do it right and not foul up something I am unaware of, and cause problems because of my inexperience with this electrical system.

I was told the stereo would probably not pull more than 500ma and this should not tax any circuit I wish to put it on, but I am erroring on the conservative side and asking people that hopefully have expertise in this area for this car.
 
VelocitàPaola said:
Is there any reason why you want to do this? The reason most of your accessories dim or shut off while the car is cranking is because the starter needs that power. By tapping into a continuously powered source, you're essentially robbing your car of the amps it needs to get going; that puts more stress on the battery and the electrical system in general.

I honestly wouldn't recommend tapping into such a source unless it's for a those self-calibrating gauges that require it.


I wish to make the stereo stay on while turning the ignition from acc to startup, I do not want the stereo to shut off intermittently while at crank

I believe the electrical system will not be taxed from the information I was told by a somewhat reliable person on another forum.

I am using a optima red top and the CCA are well over the starters requirements from what I was told.
 
Zero Banger said:
I wish to make the stereo stay on while turning the ignition from acc to startup, I do not want the stereo to shut off intermittently while at crank

I believe the electrical system will not be taxed from the information I was told by a somewhat reliable person on another forum.

I am using a optima red top and the CCA are well over the starters requirements from what I was told.

1) Wire your yellow and red wire both to the yellow wire (constant) and have a switch on the red wire or

2) Hook up the red wire to the ignition directly or

3) Run a wire from the battery to the red wire on your CD player and install a switch on it.

Are you losing memory on your CD player when you crank it??
 
I did the same thing using the dash light wire. Now I can turn on/off the stereo as long as the running lights switch is on (one click before headlights). Without losing memory.
 
it is not a memory issue, I simply do not like the stereo cycling off then back on when the ignition is at acc, and the car is turned on.

Simply a personal preference that I am sure I can resolve with minimal effort.
 
So do what DGajre777 said, with minimal effort...

DGajre777 said:
1) Wire your yellow and red wire both to the yellow wire (constant) and have a switch on the red wire.

Instead of having a switch though, you might consider hooking everything up to a relay. Tap the yellow constant wire and run it through the COM and NO ports of a small 12V relay (Radio Shack #275-249). Connect the output from the relay to your red wire (switched 12V). Splice the wires running from the coil of the relay into one of the ignition wires on your steering column. You'll need to look around for a wire that gives you constant power while cranking. Any wire you find will work fine.
 
VelocitàPaola said:
So do what DGajre777 said, with minimal effort...

Zero Banger said:
What other system would be charged at crank that would be sufficient to run a stereo in this manner as a accessory line which would still turn the stereo on and off with the car, but would not have a momentary loss in power as the ignition is swept from acc to startup?


Definitely do not want a switch!

I think the most realistic solution so far is to use a relay and wire to the battery with a inline fuse at this point.

I am convinced there is probably a existing circuit that would be sufficient for what I am trying to do, If I could just get a hold of a person here that knows this electrical system inside and out..

Are there PDF manuals that are floating around for this car here or links to them? I know I could look over them preliminarily and get a feel for them, and pass them on to a friend and he would have no problem deciphering which would be the most logical choice if I wanted to use the existing hardware.
 
PieEyedPiper said:
I preditc blown fuses and other ailments along this path..
but good luck!


Then please advise me as how to avoid this issue and still accomplish the desired output.

This is what this thread is meant to accomplish, avoiding “blown fuses and other ailments”


Thank you to those that wish to help!

VelocitàPaola are newbie’s not able to post positive feedback here? I seem to remember reading that when they changed the format, but am not sure.
 
Zero Banger said:
I think the most realistic solution so far is to use a relay and wire to the battery with a inline fuse at this point.

Isn't that what I already suggested?

I looked around some more and even found a possible wire for you to use. It's under the steering column. Look at the diagram I'm enclosing; you'll need to splice into the wire that comes from pin #6. If you tap that wire and run it through a relay, it should give you the effect you want.

On the other end of the relay, of course is the constant 12V source from the battery or the yellow wire already in your stereo's aftermarket wiring harness. A fuse, as you suggested, wouldn't be a bad idea either.

I'm also including a schematic I drew up for you. Make sure to test the wire I gave you before using it, I'm not 100% positive it will work out. In any case, the wire you're going to end up using will be in the steering column.
 

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Zero Banger said:
VelocitàPaola are newbie’s not able to post positive feedback here? I seem to remember reading that when they changed the format, but am not sure.

New members can give positive feedback (reputation points) - click on the scale icon at the bottom left of the person's post who you want to reward.
 
VelocitàPaola said:
Isn't that what I already suggested?
QUOTE]


Yes you did, I deleted that part of the quote on accident, I was simply reiterating it, it had been mentioned at the forum that suggested to wire it this way to isolate it as well.

I was just asking as a trusted member there seemed to think someone here would know the exact system to tack into and not cause problems so I pursued that solution as is seemed the cleanest and easiest.

Now I have to run an extra wire and a fuse and find a place to put the relay as well as purchase the unit.

Using the existing system I could simply run a jumper wire to the radio as a substitute for the stock wire, and away I would have gone with my little mod.

Anyway thanks for taking the time to actually read the question, and try and help a novice out. :thumb:
 
Actually still wondering if there are any PDF manuals floating around I can get my hands on?

I just ask because every other car forum I have been on usually has them somewhere, is it the same here?
 
Zero Banger said:
Actually still wondering if there are any PDF manuals floating around I can get my hands on?

I just ask because every other car forum I have been on usually has them somewhere, is it the same here?

Here, I uploaded everything I have...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1845452&postcount=6

The overhaul guides are 420A specific, but the others are general technical manuals.
 
Excellent!
Thanks you very much!

It doesn’t seem to be working right now but I will be back to get those, there is very little you cant accomplish if you read those service manuals carefully.

Thanks again!

OK there it goes tryed using IE and it started right up
 
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