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how much power will the act 2600 hold

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You can slip a sprung clutch the same as am unsprung, the difference is the sprung hub will absorb some of the shock before it enters the drivetrain unlike an unsprung hub.

To the OP, if you are planning to invest enough to make the kind of power you are wanting to make, you will have to invest some into the drivetrain as well, or you can start replacing parts as they break:thumb:

i have a tre stage 3 trans and 4 spider center diff and front and rear limited slip all stock axels because they will hold. almost everything i have done can be found on (my profile)
 
well i will be tuning it and upping the boost untill i hit atleast 600 awhp so i will drive and tune it maybe more hp but my goal is 600 flat and 10.999 in the 1/4 mile

You DO plan on building that motor don't you? There's no way that you're gonna hit 600 on bone stock internals without some catastrophic consequences. And with a proper build (parts only) you're looking at 2-3k easy. And that doesn't include most of your bolt-on's. It's really hard and expensive to hit 500 and every bit of HP after that is just harder and harder. Believe me. I've seen it first hand, a friend of mine hit 510 last year and since then he's been jumping up and down for every 10hp he was able to gain.

Be ready to trash trannies, blow turbos, and all kinds of stuff if this is your first build. Everyone makes expensive mistakes.

ie.
Me throwing a 20g on my first DSM without the right supporting mods...blew that turbo twice, and then...left hand turn, clutch falls to floor, bogging and sputtering...insert every expletive ever uttered here.
 
You DO plan on building that motor don't you? There's no way that you're gonna hit 600 on bone stock internals without some catastrophic consequences. And with a proper build (parts only) you're looking at 2-3k easy. And that doesn't include most of your bolt-on's. It's really hard and expensive to hit 500 and every bit of HP after that is just harder and harder. Believe me. I've seen it first hand, a friend of mine hit 510 last year and since then he's been jumping up and down for every 10hp he was able to gain.

Be ready to trash trannies, blow turbos, and all kinds of stuff if this is your first build. Everyone makes expensive mistakes.

ie.
Me throwing a 20g on my first DSM without the right supporting mods...blew that turbo twice, and then...left hand turn, clutch falls to floor, bogging and sputtering...insert every expletive ever uttered here.

every thing is fully built and this is not even close to my first time. and alot of that is really custom.
 
You can slip a sprung clutch the same as am unsprung, the difference is the sprung hub will absorb some of the shock before it enters the drivetrain unlike an unsprung hub.

To the OP, if you are planning to invest enough to make the kind of power you are wanting to make, you will have to invest some into the drivetrain as well, or you can start replacing parts as they break:thumb:

LOL thats more of what i meant. The sprung discs will give you less chatter and in effect will make it more slippable to the common person :p
 
Your main concern with going 2600 and sprung 6puck is going to be clutch life expectancy. That is at 600hp. Its a simple fact of hard launching/pulling dsms. I have this exact setup and its definatly streetable and holds at the track. When I purchased it from slowboy racing a while back, their website had it spec'd as holding 512lb of torque. So im sure it will hold pretty well at first, but it all will depend ultimately on how you drive. With this particlular pp/clutch anyway.... ild recomend a 2900 or twin disk.
 
Your main concern with going 2600 and sprung 6puck is going to be clutch life expectancy. That is at 600hp. Its a simple fact of hard launching/pulling dsms. I have this exact setup and its definatly streetable and holds at the track. When I purchased it from slowboy racing a while back, their website had it spec'd as holding 512lb of torque. So im sure it will hold pretty well at first, but it all will depend ultimately on how you drive. With this particlular pp/clutch anyway.... ild recomend a 2900 or twin disk.

but what kind of power do you think you have and what do you run?.
 
but what kind of power do you think you have and what do you run?.

Your asking the wrong questions. Its plain and simple, if your going to be shooting for 500-600+ hp your going to eather have to do a 2600 pressure plate and a 6 puck, or a 2900 street disk which are proven setups that other guys have ran some good times on. Evileagle ran a 2900 with a street disk into the high 9 second range, but would only get 5-9 passes out of a disk before it would just be destroyed. Some other guys beat the crap out of a clutchnet setup with a 6 puck, not sure on the pressure plate or stage, but the car has made more then its share of 10 sec passes.

It cost more money to go faster, and you need the right tools to do it. Seems you got some pretty expensive stuff into your setup, why skimp on the part thats going to make all those goodies transfer into forward movement?! Get a twin disk, used or new. You can find them for 6-700 dollars and be golden. I went to a twin disk and never looked back. :thumb:
 
Your asking the wrong questions. Its plain and simple, if your going to be shooting for 500-600+ hp your going to eather have to do a 2600 pressure plate and a 6 puck, or a 2900 street disk which are proven setups that other guys have ran some good times on. Evileagle ran a 2900 with a street disk into the high 9 second range, but would only get 5-9 passes out of a disk before it would just be destroyed. Some other guys beat the crap out of a clutchnet setup with a 6 puck, not sure on the pressure plate or stage, but the car has made more then its share of 10 sec passes.

It cost more money to go faster, and you need the right tools to do it. Seems you got some pretty expensive stuff into your setup, why skimp on the part thats going to make all those goodies transfer into forward movement?! Get a twin disk, used or new. You can find them for 6-700 dollars and be golden. I went to a twin disk and never looked back. :thumb:

where can i find a used twin and is there going to be replacement parts on it
 
My goal is only 500hp on my dd with a hx40. Currently im running a 50trim thats probably seeing 350ish at 21lbs. I havent been to the track with the 50 trim but i have launched on the track with the 6puck. However Ive done alot of launching on the street while tuning with dsmlink. No problems yet.
 
Originally Posted by 1fastlaser
Your asking the wrong questions. Its plain and simple, if your going to be shooting for 500-600+ hp your going to eather have to do a 2600 pressure plate and a 6 puck, or a 2900 street disk which are proven setups that other guys have ran some good times on. Evileagle ran a 2900 with a street disk into the high 9 second range, but would only get 5-9 passes out of a disk before it would just be destroyed. Some other guys beat the crap out of a clutchnet setup with a 6 puck, not sure on the pressure plate or stage, but the car has made more then its share of 10 sec passes.

It cost more money to go faster, and you need the right tools to do it. Seems you got some pretty expensive stuff into your setup, why skimp on the part thats going to make all those goodies transfer into forward movement?! Get a twin disk, used or new. You can find them for 6-700 dollars and be golden. I went to a twin disk and never
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Yea the disks possibly. You have to watch the classifieds and ebay to get at deal. Every true dsmer knows that.... right?
 
I think to answer your question, a 2600 setup will get you by for a good couple passes at 500-600 hp BUT Your best option is to sell the 2600 and street disk you have and put it tward something bigger. If your running slicks i have no doubt a multi disk clutch is the best and (in the long run) cheapest rout.
 
A clutch WILL NOT CAUSE CRANKWALK!. That's absolutely retarded. The increased pressure of a stiff clutch on the crank of a dying 7-bolt won't help the matter but it won't by any means be the "end all."

I've had a bit of experience with different clutch applications in the life of my DSMs.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/300910-my-clutch-bad.html#post151549814

Post #11 has a small little write-up I did on a few of the kits I've used. And by all means, I'd recommend an ACT any day.

act clutchs are just exedy clutchs resprung.
 
like the title says but with a street disc i was thinking about going to a sprung 6 puck

Ever think of the ACT2900? Curt Brown's made 616whp with one using a street disc.

http://cbevo.com/17.html


One of my closest buddies runs an ACT2600 Street Disc in his 2G TSi AWD for 32k daily-driven miles making an estimated 340-360whp the enitre time. The street disc finally wore out and started slipping last summer, so we replaced it with a new 6-puck sprung disc and resurfaced the flywheel....still using the old pressure plate! He lives in town so it's not like the clutch doesn't get used much during daily driving.
 
Ever think of the ACT2900? Curt Brown's made 616whp with one using a street disc.

http://cbevo.com/17.html


One of my closest buddies runs an ACT2600 Street Disc in his 2G TSi AWD for 32k daily-driven miles making an estimated 340-360whp the enitre time. The street disc finally wore out and started slipping last summer, so we replaced it with a new 6-puck sprung disc and resurfaced the flywheel....still using the old pressure plate! He lives in town so it's not like the clutch doesn't get used much during daily driving.

wow thats bad a$$ yeah come to think of it the 2900 sounds better than i thought
 
Your asking the wrong questions. Its plain and simple, if your going to be shooting for 500-600+ hp your going to eather have to do a 2600 pressure plate and a 6 puck, or a 2900 street disk which are proven setups that other guys have ran some good times on. Evileagle ran a 2900 with a street disk into the high 9 second range, but would only get 5-9 passes out of a disk before it would just be destroyed. QUOTE]

as i said.
 
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