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How high can engine rev safely? [Merged 12-7]

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Eagle 5

20+ Year Contributor
380
3
Jan 26, 2003
Cincinnati, Ohio
How high can the 420A engine rev safely on stock springs and retainers without worrying about valves floating or what not? Also, what is needed to get rid of the rev limiters ? (7200 and 7800 fuel/ignition cuts) would a msd ignition work? just wondering. Im rebuilding my engine and Im trying to decide what to do head wise. Originally i was going to get stainless valves, crower springs, retainers, pt cruiser lifters, rockers but someone said I should get cams and get port work done instead of getting the wprings, retainers and lifters since the stock ones are fine. anyone know?
 
Very simple.. When you add bigger ports, Cams, and even a bigger turbo your power band moves up.. So you rev higher because of the bigger Cams, ports and Turbo you make more power up top. reving high isn't just for hondas.. Rotory rev real high, even big block attempt to rev higher to make more power..
 
Awdboost said:
Very simple.. When you add bigger ports, Cams, and even a bigger turbo your power band moves up.. So you rev higher because of the bigger Cams, ports and Turbo you make more power up top. reving high isn't just for hondas.. Rotory rev real high, even big block attempt to rev higher to make more power..

yea but whats wrong with reving to 8 or 8500 max??? That's pretty safe with springs, retainers and decent valves. No need to go another 500 rpms.
 
9k is way out of line unless you have a 8 or 9 second drag only car and john sheppard is in the other lane :laugh: 7500 to 8000 is all you need to spin that motor to depending on what intake you are running. 9k is just stupid and the motor will wear way more than if you shift at a resonable rpm. All your components WORK TOGETHER in your motor not just the cams. What intake are you going to use?? The stock intake runs out of steam at 7500 anyway so just keep that in mind when thowing in those race cams.
 
Reving to 9K would only be in drag racing.. Reving up higher will build lots of oil pressure and will not alow the lifter to bleed out fast enough.. Shepard does almost 10K. Please this isn't a thread on why I shouldn't rev high.. This is a thread on what to do about the extra oil pressure and how to battle that.

My head set up will be Forester Intake and race head.. IS valves. I already have HKS 272

I will even dyno my car and take it up till the power band start to drop.. I know it will be in the 8500 Plus..
 
i feel as though in this thread the students are trying to teach the teacher. this guy is in the 11's im sure he knows what hes doing. he seems to know what he's talking about. unless u have any helpful info please dont make yourself look foolish. :dsm:
 
lowridin2g said:
i feel as though in this thread the students are trying to teach the teacher. this guy is in the 11's im sure he knows what hes doing. he seems to know what he's talking about. unless u have any helpful info please dont make yourself look foolish. :dsm:

if he knows what he is doing so well then why ask a question like this?

poster: What turbo are you running and how much boost?
 
I revved my bone stock tranny to 9000-9500 all last season, it came out of the car in perfect shape. It wouldn't shift well that high, but it's fine. Shifts excellently at 8500.

If you want to rev out that high, I'd go with the 3rd gen lifters. They have enlarged oil passage to prevent this. Crower springs/retainers and some nice stainless valves is a good addition. Some light port work couldn't hurt either, more agressive porting for a larger turbo (a 50trim is not large).

As far as bottom end, just make sure it's built and torqued to spec. Eagle/Wiseco is what I'm running, it works fine. I wouldn't knife edge the crank unless it's a track only car, or you're going to trash your main bearings sooner.

I've seen bone stock heads rev to 8500 for years. If it was mine, I'd atleast make sure it was a freshly rebuilt stock head, but whatever floats your boat ;)
 
if he knows what he is doing so well then why ask a question like this?

all im saying is let the EXPERIENCED post in this thread. like the poster above mirage2lturbo. sorry but nothing is more aggravating than listening to people try and tell others what they can and cant do when they, themselves have NONE, ZERO previous experience on the subject matter. sorry guess i stuck my nose where i shouldnt have. that is all. BOOST ON :dsm:
 
1fast97gsx said:
if he knows what he is doing so well then why ask a question like this?

poster: What turbo are you running and how much boost?

I totaly agree. I dont look foolish just posting real world facts
 
TSIfreek said:
I totaly agree. I dont look foolish just posting real world facts

alright well I guess I could ad some useful info as well...

I personally have reved to 8500 and had no problems. If your rotating assembly is balanced, you have a good head and 3rd gen lifters the engine can handle it. I am one of the people who believe that over a long period of time it WON'T handle it and you will have a lot more engine problems in the future compared to someone only reving to 7000 or 7500. Even with my turbo ( sc61 ) there is no need to go over 8300 ever. As far as trannies being able to take it ... they can for a while, but I wouldn't count on getting a whole lot of miles out of them unless you want to send it out to shep every year and have it redone. I usually went to about 8k and had no problems shifting on a stock tranny at first ... but after a few thousand miles of reving that high and beating on the car I started having problems and now I need another rebuild.
 
I know a few people who have been revving to 9k and their cars keep getting faster and are daily driven mid 11 sec cars. So if your turbo is still pulling hard I dont see why you shouldn't set your rev limit to 9k unless it cant handle it. Fawk a bunch of haters :thumb: .
 
Wait you've seen bone stock heads rev to 8500 fine? Do you think it's possible to rev a stock 4g63 up to 8000? If so, i'm gonna get my cpu chipped for 8000 and make sure my turbo is breathing well up there. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
 
lowridin2g said:
i feel as though in this thread the students are trying to teach the teacher. this guy is in the 11's im sure he knows what hes doing. he seems to know what he's talking about. unless u have any helpful info please dont make yourself look foolish. :dsm:


Thank you.. :)

I've got FP3065 With the 3rd Gen lifters with a full built TRE trans made to take 9k shifts.. I know about the holes size. Lots of guys who rev out there motor high will see higher oil pressure. That’s a fact.. The question is who has work on this problem and what did you do to lower the oil pressure so that the lifter will have enough time to bleed out? Please stick to the question.. I'm aware of what it take to rev to 9k I just what some input from people who have solved this.. I know solid lifter are an option but I wouldn't want to adjust them all the time.. Please I want experience input.. No more.. You know you need this or why would you do that. Thanks :D
 
I've heard of people drilling the oil relief hole in the lifter out so the oil will bleed off faster. I am curious though what the experienced people have to say.
 
It's just what I heard and I don't think it would be a miracle to drill through hardened steel. I have drill bits that can drill through steel with a grade up to 60 on the rockwell "C" scale, and they are like $10-$20. I'm pretty sure the dsm lifters aren't more than 60 on the "C" scale.
 
Things i've seen:
* A stock dsm long block rev to 8500 and hold, and 8k on a consistent basis
* A dsm ross/eagle bottom end with si ss valves, crower titanium valve springs/retainers and 3g lifters rev to 9k and hold, and 8500 on a consistent basis
My advice if you wish to rev out to 9k is to go with a dual spring setup, have a balanced forged bottom end, and don't do it all too often. You are truly pushing the limit of what the crower single spring can take at 8500. How often do you plan on going that high? How often are you at the track?
BTW my setup, as I won't go larger than a 60-1 as long as I keep the 2.0 is Ross 8.5:1, Eagle rods, Si SS/Nitride valves stock size, 3g lifters, Crower titanium valve springs/retainers, and a good bit of port work on the head. It currently is running stock cams/turbo, but the long block is there once I get the coin to get cams, turbo, etc. I plan on taking the car to 8000 consistently, and 8500 rarely.
 
anomalyinva said:
Things i've seen:
* A stock dsm long block rev to 8500 and hold, and 8k on a consistent basis
* A dsm ross/eagle bottom end with si ss valves, crower titanium valve springs/retainers and 3g lifters rev to 9k and hold, and 8500 on a consistent basis
My advice if you wish to rev out to 9k is to go with a dual spring setup, have a balanced forged bottom end, and don't do it all too often. You are truly pushing the limit of what the crower single spring can take at 8500. How often do you plan on going that high? How often are you at the track?
BTW my setup, as I won't go larger than a 60-1 as long as I keep the 2.0 is Ross 8.5:1, Eagle rods, Si SS/Nitride valves stock size, 3g lifters, Crower titanium valve springs/retainers, and a good bit of port work on the head. It currently is running stock cams/turbo, but the long block is there once I get the coin to get cams, turbo, etc. I plan on taking the car to 8000 consistently, and 8500 rarely.

I disagree. I'm running 3g lifters, ss valves, crower springs/retainers, hks 272's, wiseco/eagle bottom end (and ANY motor should be balanced!! It's not just a performance thing!!) and I'm regularly shifting at 9000, and have taken it to 9500 a few times with no issues. I don't see the need for a dual spring setup unless you are going regularly to 9500-10000.
 
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