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How forgiving is a Fel-Pro MLS HG?

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Risstanomak

15+ Year Contributor
40
0
Nov 15, 2006
INDIANAPOLIS, Indiana
Ugh, this is embarassing. I just put together my engine after replacing the head and now white exhaust is coming out = coolant in chambers. The HG was brand new but I didn't read the packaging before I opened it and I didnt install it immediately and in fact just to see if it lined up properly I put it on the engine and left it there overnight without the head on it. Then when I did put the head on I did so alone and it was heavy and clumbsy. It took a few trys to get the head lined up and set on the block. Did I damage the HG seals by leaving it out to collect dust and by picking the head up and down on it? I have a new one and want to try retorquing the bolts before redoing the whole thing.
 
Risstanomak said:
Ugh, this is embarassing. I just put together my engine after replacing the head and now white exhaust is coming out = coolant in chambers. The HG was brand new but I didn't read the packaging before I opened it and I didnt install it immediately and in fact just to see if it lined up properly I put it on the engine and left it there overnight without the head on it. Then when I did put the head on I did so alone and it was heavy and clumbsy. It took a few trys to get the head lined up and set on the block. Did I damage the HG seals by leaving it out to collect dust and by picking the head up and down on it? I have a new one and want to try retorquing the bolts before redoing the whole thing.
No. Won't hurt anything unless something fell in between (not dust).

But is the HG on backwards? Did you remember the corner dowels/inserts (to line up head)? Why did you do HG; did it overheat? Did you have the head deck checked? Are you sure that it is still leaking?

MB
 
always torque the bolts in order from the middle to the outside. and its been awhile since i took my head off but i think the FSM states to turn each bolt 1/4 of a turn after torqueing them to spec.
 
The dowels are there. I replaced a cracked head with a remanufactured one but my dumbass didnt check the level of it or the engine surface. I'm going to do a compression test to see if bubbles come up through the coolant system. Can I undo the head bolts and then retorque them without removing the head? What else could the white exhaust be? It starts out clear for about 5 seconds then becomes white and billows out when the gas is pushed.

Oh and I removed the exhaust manifold and discovered rust at the opening of almost all the ports.

and is the intake manifold stay important and that wierd plastic box thats bolted to it? It would be nice to not have to remove that crap each time.
thanks.
 
I would do a compression check, as you stated. The intake stay is to brace the intake. Although it is aluminum, you probably wont want that weight hanging off the side of your (also aluminum) head. You probably could though.

If the compression check shows a leak, you could try re-torqueing the bolts. Dont do one at a time, loosen them all up first. Before you torque it, check the threads to make sure the bolt is still good. Then retorque it in the specified manner (inside first, then in a spiral going outwards - or whatever the manual says). Recheck the compression again. If it checks good, warm the engine up, drive it, etc. etc.. and check it again.

If the compression is still bad, id think likely either the head isnt flat, or the block needs to be decked. It could also be (hope not) a cracked block, or your remanufactured head may be junk.... and cracked.

Hope it works out for ya.
 
Risstanomak said:
and is the intake manifold stay important and that wierd plastic box thats bolted to it? It would be nice to not have to remove that crap each time.
thanks.

leave the intake manifold brace.

the black box is your cruise control vacuum box if you dont need cruise take it off and cap the hole on the intake manifold.
 
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