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Horrible Noises on 1st Startup after Rebuild [Video]

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360glitch

10+ Year Contributor
285
0
Sep 10, 2008
Clinton, Mississippi
Just finished getting everything back together and spinning a rod bearing, and now I'm faced with this.

You can see/hear it by clicking here:

YouTube - 4g63 Noise on Startup

A good buddy of mine suggested bleeding the lifters so since the video I pulled them, bled them, put them back in. The noise is still there. The oil pressure seems to be good and there is plenty of it in the engine. Any ideas? :confused:

Note: The idle does smooth out a bit after running for a few seconds but the noise is still there. Also, I did a compression test with perfect results.
 
I don't reccomend this. But when my lifters did that they didn't quiet down even after letting the car sit and idle for hours. What finally did it was literally taking the car out and running the piss out of it. Couple pulls up through 2nd and it went away. But that is all up to you and if you feel like trying your luck.

EDIT: Come to think of it i had a blance shaft that spun a bearing and it also sounded just about the same as that

I would not do this as it sounds like an oil problem going to the head.
Did the oil regulator get put back on the head?? If not theres your problem. Pull the valve cover and take a pic if are not sure what it is. .
Its the piece that gets bolted to the top of the head with 3 bolts on the passengers side of the head.
 
Timing is 105% on target. Will be verifying oil pressure before anything else. Thanks for the help all. Will keep you guys updated.
 
I just remember a few years ago a friend of mine put his motor together and it sounded just like yours, i check the timing marks for him and they were on point. BUT he put the crank marker( the ring\plate that slides on the end of the crank against the timing belt cog pulley with the notch in it) was on wrong, he put the wrong side facing out, so the valves were hitting. If anyone has put that together you will notice the notch and the key way slot arent right in line with each other, so say the notch is to one side of the key way slot, if you put it on backwords it will be on the other side of the key way slot. Then when you set your timing marks they look right but its really out a few teeth. Check to see when cly #1 is at tdc( use a thin brazing rod or somthing to hold on the top of the piston snd rotate the crank until u feel the piston come all the way up and stop) that the timing notch is on point
 
I just remember a few years ago a friend of mine put his motor together and it sounded just like yours, i check the timing marks for him and they were on point. BUT he put the crank marker( the ring\plate that slides on the end of the crank against the timing belt cog pulley with the notch in it) was on wrong, he put the wrong side facing out, so the valves were hitting. If anyone has put that together you will notice the notch and the key way slot arent right in line with each other, so say the notch is to one side of the key way slot, if you put it on backwords it will be on the other side of the key way slot. Then when you set your timing marks they look right but its really out a few teeth. Check to see when cly #1 is at tdc( use a thin brazing rod or somthing to hold on the top of the piston snd rotate the crank until u feel the piston come all the way up and stop) that the timing notch is on point

Couldn't hurt to double check that tomorrow I imagine. Thanks for the tip. To all that are following my problem, I did not get to work on the car tonight, but I intend on doing so tomorrow. Thanks!
 
I just remember a few years ago a friend of mine put his motor together and it sounded just like yours, i check the timing marks for him and they were on point. BUT he put the crank marker( the ring\plate that slides on the end of the crank against the timing belt cog pulley with the notch in it) was on wrong, he put the wrong side facing out, so the valves were hitting. If anyone has put that together you will notice the notch and the key way slot arent right in line with each other, so say the notch is to one side of the key way slot, if you put it on backwords it will be on the other side of the key way slot. Then when you set your timing marks they look right but its really out a few teeth. Check to see when cly #1 is at tdc( use a thin brazing rod or somthing to hold on the top of the piston snd rotate the crank until u feel the piston come all the way up and stop) that the timing notch is on point
And we have a winner. Timing plate was on backwards and the intake valves were kissing the pistons.
 
Ok, so my 2g sound exactly like this except every 10 seconds or so, its not clockwork or anything, but the engine bogs down and makes another horrible noise like rubber sliding against metal or somthing, not rebuilt or anything so any suggestions on my problem?
 
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