Hks Bov?

[turbospd]

I saw this black nissan silvia on streetfire.net

http://videos.streetfire.net/search/silvia/1/9A7523FE-65AE-452A-868D-6DBD037591D4.htm

and it has the hks ssqv. The dual shudder sound after the bov goes off, seemed to go on for longer than you would normally hear. What would make this sound like this or does anyone know how that would work to get it to do that?

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

it was on a tripod. I just came back from a short test drive before I took that vid, I will investigate it more and post my results. I have seen many of your posts regarding hks ssqv bovs, when I was doing a search on them. So I am aware you are very experienced with these things. When I am driving, yes it sounds as noted by others, cushhh then the hks flutter. (EDIT: I just realized that during the first drive after putting it on, I was mostly going WOT about 20-21 psi.. and during then is what I assume you are reffering to as being more crisp, followed by the hks flutter.. so I had no idea how it is at 15 psi, again I will check next time I drive it). That white 2g is my uncle's 98 gs-t, damn I can't wait to get another 2g, it will be my daily driver, and when I mod it, all my experience and knowledge on DSMs will pay off, it will be fun to mod that one.

I forget to mention, that vid is of the bov RECIRCULATED using authentic hks recirc fitting .

ACtually if you watch the vid again, after that stutter box show, the rpms dropped down really low to almost dying. I'm sure that will confirm your theorys on how these things perform. But then again I am having some idle problems, (how surprising yay dsms), so I don't want to use my example as the basis of all things.

I'm coming from an authentic greddy type s. Perhaps this is just in my head/placebo effect, but the car seems to be running stronger/better. No proof of course, other then knowing my own car instinct.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Yea get those results. The RPM's should not die like that. That means something getting back to the turbo and "killing" its "spinage" WTF In other words pressures building all the way back to the compressor wheel killing its motion. I have picks of what the guy above my old posts sent me. Its a smart Idea if you willing to go through with it. I bet it would help.

 

[tsunari]

I'm going to have to throw in my vote that that sounds like compressor surge . . . I've got the Authentic SSQV and have been running it for several years now and have never hear either of my turbos make the BOV produce that sound.

Now granted I have the adjuster backed all of the way out . . . perhaps that has something to do with it, but definitely doesn't warble like yours. If I could get my hands on a vid camera, I'd post a vid.

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

can you attached it in this thread? I'm sure it would be beneficial for everybody.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

I'm going to have to throw in my vote that that sounds like compressor surge . . . I've got the Authentic SSQV and have been running it for several years now and have never hear either of my turbos make the BOV produce that sound.

Now granted I have the adjuster backed all of the way out . . . perhaps that has something to do with it, but definitely doesn't warble like yours. If I could get my hands on a vid camera, I'd post a vid.

The SSQV's adjustment is for diaphram travel. Its like this, since an untouched SSQ works of the pressure alterations between the two rear chambers the Bov will open so far and then close then open then close hence the fah fah fah fah sound, but thats not good. That design, I believe is more for race cars to keep as much pressure in the intake tract for super fast response....but it back fires for street driving. I gutted the inside of my ssq and it opens as far as it physcially can. I have NO flutter at all, ever. The extra pressure under the diaphram make a world of difference.

Drilling a 1/16 hole between the front and middle chamber will take care of your problems.

Im with tsunari...thats surge, or at leasta degree of it.

This thread should be a sticky or a tech of something...theres good info here....oh and Wo0OT for 1000 posts haha

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

surge, aka, JDM sickness yo! . So adjsting that screw doesn't really do anything? I adjusted it further back, so you said since that is what does the "hks flutter" (perhaps we should just refer to it as that instead of trying to imitate the sound it makes in words it should help correct? I am about to go for a drive RIGHT NOW, made sure everything was tight and nothing was wrong, and like I said adjusted the screw out a bit.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

surge, aka, JDM sickness yo! . So adjsting that screw doesn't really do anything? I adjusted it further back, so you said since that is what does the "hks flutter" (perhaps we should just refer to it as that instead of trying to imitate the sound it makes in words it should help correct? I am about to go for a drive RIGHT NOW, made sure everything was tight and nothing was wrong, and like I said adjusted the screw out a bit.

You dont like the Fla fla fla fla fla ? BAck it all the way and see what it does. Im not sure if the knock off takes the same inside of the real. Only way to tell is to take yours apart. For now though back it out and hit it. Check for the differences. Let us know.

Just to let you know, mine surged beyond beliefe because it could not open far enough.....one thing led to another I took stuff apart, broke stuff by accident and ended up with my great working custom SSQV. I just could not let $165 go with out trying.

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

Yea I hear ya, I was contemplating on just buying the correct hks to 1g flange adapter after I got the wrx one. But it's already here and it just took some work, well, to make it work.

Anyways I'm back. At 15 psi at driving, yes it is a more sharp cushhh followed by the cha cha cha. I backed it out a little bit, but not all the way, don't know if it did much or anything at all, like I said the first time, at 15 that is what happened. And anything more was an even more sharp cushhh followed by the cha chas.

I have pics of the knock off, I believe I took pics of it taken apart, im not sure, if I do I will post it in this thread.

BTW I forgot to note, the knockoff I got, the c-clip it came with WAS TOO BIG, it seemed like it was for something else, definitely not for the hks flanges. I have the right tool, and I used it before to put on other hks ssqv c-clips.. I got another one from somewhere local, and in she goes no problem. Also I see that the "T"s even say HKS on them, like the original. WOW!

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Ill make you this one pic. It will show what you should do and Ill explain why.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

This is from, mikyrc.

By linking the 2 chambers, normally cut off you allow the build up of pressure in the IC piping to blow the diaphram open when the throttle plate is closed. Its that simple. I have probably written pages about this, but really it all comes down to the boost pressure having access to the underside of the diaphram. Thats it. If you drill that hole, you should lose the flutter.

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

Ahh that makes sense.. I'll get around to doing it. so do I just drill from the back? You have to completely dissemble the entire valve right?

BTW here is the only picture I snapped of the knockoff..

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[EclipseTrbo420A]

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See that silver cylinder thing near the SSQ? Thats what the adjustment screw moves back and forth inside the spring. The plate washer that the springs sits on has a hole in the middle so the spring is untouched when adjusting the bov screw....see what I mean?

On yours it looks like it adjusts spring tension , not the travle of the diaphram. Most likly, you will have to drill that hole or tap the middle chamber for a boost sorce like I did. They have the same exact effect, mines just reversable. The hole is easier though.

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

ahh damn, i dont have that cylinder not do i have a hole in the plate that the spring sits on.. Theres the obvious from the knockoff and athentic. Doing that mod mentioned above, will this help at all since I don't have that cylinder, or is that cylinder not that big of a deal. Now I'm a bit more confused since the addition of the picture showing the cylinder.

But the new authentic hks ssqvs dont even have the adjustment screw anymore, so does that mean they also took off that silver cylinder? It more so just becomes like the knockoff, except the knockoff haivng an adjustment screw that perhaps does nothing at all.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Heres what I did, because even backed out all the way..it still wasnt enough travle for the diaphram. I cut the cylinder in half, then screwed it to the adjustment screw on the inside. backed all the way out the diaphram can now open 99.9% before theres to much stress on the rubber.

Now that I got it opening far enough taken care of. I needed to have it not surge and flutter. I came up with the idea of an all boost/no vac source for under the diaphram. I wrestled with making a 1 way valve inside, then it it me.....go external durrr. I tapped the middle chamber for the nipple and tapped the IC piping for the source and there it was....A Type-S WTF I saw it while sarching google.....the type S has a 2nd nipple..why? for an all boost source.

People always thought the 2nd nipple killed the bov because they ran it to a vac/boost source as well and that just makes the BOV do nothing at all.

Anyway seeing the type s was run the same way I though up for my ssq I never looked back and its been working great ever since.

The only difference between my HKS and a type s is the pressure build up locations......but thats a whole new chapter.

 

[mikyrc]

Hey guys, i was on vacations.
I didn't have time to post the pics i sent you Matt, sorry.

I attach the rest just in case somebody else need them.

By the way, my ssqv (knockoff too) doesn't have the cylinder nor the hole onthe spring plate either. On ours you just adjust the spring pressure with the bolt.

Something that has helped me a lot after doing the mod, as you can modify the sound as you like.

The fluttering is normal as it's the way that valve is built. Is not sourge, is the big valve moving back and forth constantly due to the air flow. As it's a free moving valve, no springs there.

I have to say that with the stock spring my bov didn't sound like that after the mod anymore, it's because the spring is to soft when working with vac and pressure toghether now.
I had to replace that spring with a stiffer one. Now i can adjust it the way i want. From fluttering to just a tiny pshhhh.

And also tell you that after the mod you can't vent to the atmosphere anymore. As the valve keeps open when decelerating under vacuum or at iddle (just like all other bovs around).

Here they go the pics.

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[RedTurboEclipse]

damn there ya go, nice pics! And btw that is a huge spring.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

I wonder whys yours leaks at idle and Deaccell? Mines fine. I also blocked off the 2 rear chambers though, so that might have soemthing to do with it.

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

I didn't do the mod yet but I backed out the bolt to barely making contact, there is a lot less flutter now. I also noticed im buildling boost faster, with this bov in general, i didnt notice it until i looked at the tach/boost gauge. MY greddy type s was definitely leaking, or something wrong with it.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Im about to start buying knock off and perform this mod and selling em I could clean up. Im glad you losing the flutter. If you cant completly lose it though, theres always another way haha

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

Well, you contributed a lot to the hks ordeal, I think this thread has covered pretty much everything. I like the flutter though so I tightened it up a wee-bit , im such a ricer. Although it was confirmed that it isnt compressor surge.

Btw, YES I did notice the idle dropping, but you already discussed why this happens and how it is fixed, other than that.. no other problem. I might just get another knockoff and do the mod above and see how it works, I mean hell its only $50.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Well, you contributed a lot to the hks ordeal, I think this thread has covered pretty much everything. I like the flutter though so I tightened it up a wee-bit , im such a ricer. Although it was confirmed that it isnt compressor surge.

Btw, YES I did notice the idle dropping, but you already discussed why this happens and how it is fixed, other than that.. no other problem. I might just get another knockoff and do the mod above and see how it works, I mean hell its only $50.

Right, this thread is finished. Im going home haha. Glad everyones happy now. Later on down the road though, I bet someone comes in here and asks the same "is this surge" question hahah well see.

 

[mikyrc]

My bov stays a bit open at iddle because i set it like this unscrewing the bolt. I prefer very small fluttering instead of being closed at iddle and too much fluttering noise.

The spring on the picture is what i used to make the one i installed. Obviously i had to cut a small part of it (same size as the original). They only sell 1 meter long springs.

 

[yellow90tsi]

Well im alittle unsure that there still is some surge. Matt i talked to u the other night about doing the mod of drilling the two chambers. On low boost at 10 psi its awesome. The mod worked, well kind of. I have a maf-t setup blow through. I was running no filter for a day or so till i got one. Well i put a pipe and filter on it a few days later and the surge was so loud coming through the filter like mavisky video. When i take the fliter off its still there just not as loud. Well after i drilled the hole some of that went away becasue the bov is working right. Well the hole i drilled was 1/8 or 3mm. Way too big so no i need a stiffer spring. Not a biggie. But I am still concerned that this is surge. I will try to get a video together with and without the filter so u can hear the difference. Once i put a stiffer spring in we will see what happens.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Well im alittle unsure that there still is some surge. Matt i talked to u the other night about doing the mod of drilling the two chambers. On low boost at 10 psi its awesome. The mod worked, well kind of. I have a maf-t setup blow through. I was running no filter for a day or so till i got one. Well i put a pipe and filter on it a few days later and the surge was so loud coming through the filter like mavisky video. When i take the fliter off its still there just not as loud. Well after i drilled the hole some of that went away becasue the bov is working right. Well the hole i drilled was 1/8 or 3mm. Way too big so no i need a stiffer spring. Not a biggie. But I am still concerned that this is surge. I will try to get a video together with and without the filter so u can hear the difference. Once i put a stiffer spring in we will see what happens.

Post up a vid!

 

[yellow90tsi]

Mavisky i had a question for u. Have u ever run your car without a filter and pipe off of the turbo? If u have do u notice any different sounds? If you have not i would try it and see if u hear anything different. My car right now sounds like yours does. And i beleive mine is surge. If i take my pipe and filter off and dont hear it as loud, just a chaa chaaa chaaa. With the filter and pipe on i get a higer pitched wheeze like the supra guys. Let me know, im very curious, i have been talking with matt trying to fix my problem. But like i said im still leary of that sound being surge as yours might be.