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Hks Bov?

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Any bov vented on the stock mas will hesitate. Some more than others though.

My personal advice - Don't vent on anything but an maft blowthrough setup or similar, and don't buy an HKS SSQV if you intend to re-circ it. Short of hacking, cutting and modifying the bov, it just doesn't work that great in that mode.

With an maft setup mine will even flutter at high rpm mid-throttle openings. The car will be accelerating but you'll get a little "tweet-tweet-tweet" as the car balances on the line of boost levels change ever so slightly between the ic piping and the intake manifold as I pedal the throttle through corners. It sounds funny, but the car doesn't buck or get upset whatsoever.
 
Its a HKS race external waste gate, and its not cheap at all look at there website. My freind is running it on his GT42R supra and it makes the same sound. He has Daul Blitz blow off valves and its not the bov making the noise.

The waste gate along with the spring being so "stiff is what you are hearing, its turns alot of heads when he builds boost during a burn out or lets off the gas in boost, its really loud in person.

There is a red supra also runnning the same gate as my freind with a very large turbo and it makes the same sound. Its not cheap at all, and it way more expensive than the reg HKS gate that dsm guys run.

http://www.hksusa.com/categories/?id=1939
 
Fixed your link.

No idea what you're talking about as none of us in this thread have an external wastegate that I know of. I can guarantee you that mine isn't my internal wastegate either as it's not dumped.
 
Same here, Internal gate and not dumping. Most of us will never need the "Race" version seeing as the regular can hold excess of 40+ psi with out trouble.
 
Matt, what do you think about what i've wrote a bit above?
 
mikyrc said:
Matt, what do you think about what i've wrote a bit above?

Im sorry I didnt notice you wrote that. Im glad you decided to try my mod. First Im going to need to know everything you did because I dont think you got the part about elimination the passage between the 2 rear chambers. To do so you will have to rip out the black button looking piece in the rear chamber and fill the shaft with bronze RTV. Theres no tunring back once you break the button off, so when you said you would un-do the mod I assumed you didnt do it the right way.

If you did what I think you did, which is tap the middle chamber and run it to a boost source the your now fighting your opening force. The pressure in the middle chamber is what blows the bov open. If you didnt seal off the hole with RTV in there then what will happen is:

under boost the intake manifold and IC piping get pressureized. then when you let of the throttle the IC piping builds lots more pressure and the IM sees vac....we already went over that. If you dont seal off the passage between the 2 the vac in the manifold will suck the pressure comming from the IC piping, instead of allowing it to build up and blow the bov open. see what I mean? So now when you let off your not seeing all the pressure that the bottom chamber can see.

I have acouple Ideas you could do to take care of this, but all require mods that can not be turned around as you can still turn around now. Its up to you on what you want to do now. Any Q's just ask -Matt

By the way my bov sounds like airbrakes letting out at moderate throttle and a loud whip crack at WOT then followed by the air brake noise.
 
I guarantee you that the noise I'm hearing isn't compressor surge, nor is it my wastegate. While other car's on the internet may be experiencing those, I can 100% guarantee you that mine is not. I never noticed this issue until I ran a dedicated line to my bov without the mbc tapping into it. I'm not sure if the mbc acted as a buffer for this or not with the extra piping or not. Since switching to a dedicated bov vacuum line I've noticed better response out of my HKS though.
 
If you want to hear the situation I'm describing then download the latest supra vs. rx7 video from racing flix and listen at around 13:30, you can hear his ssqv do the same thing mine does.
 
Thanks for the reply Matt.
Yes you're right, i didn't touch the one way valve/Bolt on the chambers. But if i seal it, it will be even worse.

Surprisingly what is happening to me is that the BOV stay open at iddle. The vacuum alone on the first chamber can overcome the spring force, even with the bolt fully tightened. And under boost it's even worse as the boost added on the seccond chamber helps opening the BOV even more.
So blocking that valve/bolt will do nothing more than make it worse.

What i really need is a stiffer spring.
 
mikyrc said:
Thanks for the reply Matt.
Yes you're right, i didn't touch the one way valve/Bolt on the chambers. But if i seal it, it will be even worse.

Surprisingly what is happening to me is that the BOV stay open at iddle. The vacuum alone on the first chamber can overcome the spring force, even with the bolt fully tightened. And under boost it's even worse as the boost added on the seccond chamber helps opening the BOV even more.
So blocking that valve/bolt will do nothing more than make it worse.

What i really need is a stiffer spring.

It took me alot of trial and error to get mine to work how it does now and I know what I have works. Here....how about this. The Type-S is a perfect example of what I did to my bov...I only found that out after I was looking at one and realized I turned my ssq in to a type s...just a differetn shape. You seem to know what your doing so I think you could probably take off the back part and throw a washer in there to raise the spring rate. try it out and let us know. I have more to say but have to run now. Ill post up later on.
 
Sorry to revive this thread but I just installed the HKS SSQV on my GST and am recirculating it.

It does make the fluttering sound when letting off at certain RPMs and has me worried that this is compressor surge. It sounds like this is just a trait of the BOV though, correct?

At any rate I have not have any driveability issues with it. If anything it's better than the uncrushed 1G I had installed.
 
daveyfx said:
Sorry to revive this thread but I just installed the HKS SSQV on my GST and am recirculating it.

It does make the fluttering sound when letting off at certain RPMs and has me worried that this is compressor surge. It sounds like this is just a trait of the BOV though, correct?

At any rate I have not have any driveability issues with it. If anything it's better than the uncrushed 1G I had installed.

The HKS will flutter under light conditions. Thats fine just make sure you get a nice blow off at high boost and make sure theres no bucking sputtering or drop in rpms when blowing off.
 
EclipseTrbo420A said:
The HKS will flutter under light conditions. Thats fine just make sure you get a nice blow off at high boost and make sure theres no bucking sputtering or drop in rpms when blowing off.

No bucking/sputtering/drops at all and yes I do get that loud S&M-ish whip when blowing off at high boost :thumb:
 
How do vent the SSQ to the the air filter, does that tube they offer at extremepsi.com or vendor is all you need to recirculate? If you have any pics that would helpful....
 
Hey, after few days i could get a stiffer spring for the ssqv (that is not an original HKS by the way)

And i must say that now it rocks!!

I'm running the ssqv with a similar mod you did Matt but instead of a nipple i just drilled a hole to comunicate the IC piping to the 2nd chamber as i told you.

With the stock spring, even with the bolt tightened at maximum, the valve kept open all the way at iddle and the discharge didn't sound like it should any more. But replacing the spring with a stiffer one i got the high pitched sound again!
And the best of all is that the car is super driveable at half throttle (because of your mod).
No shaking when letting off the gas at partial throttle as it happened before doing the mod.

So thanks Matt for the idea and to everyone for their answers.
 
mikyrc said:
Hey, after few days i could get a stiffer spring for the ssqv (that is not an original HKS by the way)

And i must say that now it rocks!!

I'm running the ssqv with a similar mod you did Matt but instead of a nipple i just drilled a hole to comunicate the IC piping to the 2nd chamber as i told you.

With the stock spring, even with the bolt tightened at maximum, the valve kept open all the way at iddle and the discharge didn't sound like it should any more. But replacing the spring with a stiffer one i got the high pitched sound again!
And the best of all is that the car is super driveable at half throttle (because of your mod).
No shaking when letting off the gas at partial throttle as it happened before doing the mod.

So thanks Matt for the idea and to everyone for their answers.

Great news ! Glad I could help you out. Could you possible send some pics to my email [email protected] I would like to check out how exactly you made it work as well. GoodLuck. I was thinking about making a write up, but im not to sure how many people would want to go and drill holes in their SSQ's. Anyway Its nice to know I have a 1 of 2 now haha. Thanks !-Matt
 
wuz up guys, I have a couple of questions about the HKS SSQV, I bought one from a member on another board, and they jipped me and sold me a broken SSQV, the black ring inside was glued together and broke apart upon installation on my 1g Talon, so the BOV pretty much leaks air all the time, also the back part where the allen head screws hold the BOV together, is cracked is there no hope for my BOV, i'm thinking of just counting my losses and buying a knock-off cause I don't have money to buy a brand new HKS SSQV, if anyone needs any parts from the broken valve let me know. Also I had a turbo XS type H on my car, and found out the more washers you put in the smoother the idle was, and the car wasn't running as rich as before and has no idle, or stalling issues, so I see that the HKS BOV has the spring inside that is pushed by a screw in the back, does this effect the idle by changing or not.
 
Can you post up some pictures of the "black ring" ? IF its the diaphram..I would count your losses..seeing as I dont believe they sell them seperately if its the black piece in the middle then You can save the bov. Let us know.
 
Matt i doesn't have pics of the mod process sorry.
But i'll send you one showing the bov disassembled and i'll paint the place i did the hole on it. I'll send you a pic of the spring i bought. It's a 3mm wire steel spring. And i cut it the same lenght of the stock ssqv one.
 
mikyrc said:
Matt i doesn't have pics of the mod process sorry.
But i'll send you one showing the bov disassembled and i'll paint the place i did the hole on it. I'll send you a pic of the spring i bought. It's a 3mm wire steel spring. And i cut it the same lenght of the stock ssqv one.

Awsome just use that email above.
 
Well, I went and got an hks ssqv again, my DSM career going on 5 years I believe, going from hks ssqv, to greddy type s, now back again to hks ssqv.

This time I went with the knock-offs, during the time since I had an authentic hks ssqv, with some research and reading it was safe to say the knockoffs were just as good. Anyways, that video of the nissan, mine sounds like it.. here is a vid of my car..

just idle, stutter box with antilag via dsmlink, i believe it builds around 15psi on my 50 trim
edit: bandwith

when driving it sounds like that.. it gives a nice regular cushhh then the hks flutter. im hoping this is normal?

btw i am using an hks flange to wrx flange adapter.. no one could give me a straight answer right away if they were similar or not, so i bought it.. i was hoping the mounting holes would match up.. despite a slightly different shape, the most important being the mounting holes of course, well it did not. so here is me clarifying it for reference. the wrx flange is slightly bigger and the mounting holes will not match up to a 1g mounting holes. If I were to drill holes mounting with the 1g holes it would not work because then the wrx flange would be super big, becoming a slotted hole and I was afraid of it not being secure. So since my 1g flange on my ic piping was modified in the first place with holes to fit greddy bovs, i said ok ill just make new holes in the wrx flange to match up with the greddy holes. But because of how this flange was designed, the new holes would run right next to the part where it turns into an hks flange. After drilling the holes, I had to use a dremel and grind a lot off so the head of the bolt could sit right there, and I would need to tighten it from the bottom. Not very convenient at all, BUT IT CAN BE DONE. If anybody wants pics I have them. The hks to wrx flange was $24 + shipping on ebay, comes with flange gasket and oring gasket. The hks to 1g is $50 + shipping. If you are super cheap and have the tools, do what I did, but if I could do it again and I was informed, I would spend the extra $25 for no trouble.

As for the hks ssqv bov knockoff. It works. No complaints. My official hks recirculation piece fits. Nothing bad to say about it, yet.
 
Did you set the camera on the hood of that white 2g? I wish I could get a vid of mine up. I believe the HKS "sequential" is supposed to do that, but I dont like it. When your driving does the car buck at all? Do your RPM's fall off after your blow off. Does it take time to build boost back up? Those are all things to check. I swear at 15PSI it should be more crisp of a blow off.
 
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