The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Help with ACF settings why do I have to take out lots of fuel at 1k and 2k rpms

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

troysevo16

15+ Year Contributor
96
0
Jul 29, 2004
spencerport, New York
Hey I have a bunch of question I just got my car back from being fixed its been almost a year since its ran (long story) any how I got my car back today and its running like shit leaking coolent all over (from one of the coolent lines running from the turbo i think) car makes weird nosies under breaking as if something in the front end is loose, vacume reads only 12-15 at first idel, speedo cut off on me while driving, and last is my afc is ####ed up why is there a need to take between -40 and -50 out in High and low throttle to get it to idel right, at 1k and 2k rpms??? (660cc injectors). Its strang the more fuel I add it idels hella high like at -20 the car will idel at 2500rpms why is this, its not right after 2k rmps its 30 across the bord which is about right, and also they told me my mbc was crap and tried to get me to buy a $300 electrical one is this true my mbc is not accucate and crap? while a little on the vent side I end up paying them $430 to fix the car, granet the car was not running when I gave it to them and they had to order me a new cam angle sensor which they said cost $125 what would you guys do I took my car apart a little bit tonight and It needs some work I am very pissed at this place and feedback or anwsers to my questions would be great thanks

o my mods incase anyone has any ideas for the afc are evo16g with all the tricks done to it, greddy big fmic, 3 inch exhaust system, 3inch intake pipe, 660cc injectors, afc, mbc, gauges boost and air fuel, ported exhaust manifold, evo o2 housing, 255lph fuel pump, hks bov... and all other supporting mods I forgot
 
hmmm it sounds like your heading in the wrong direction...first off get yourself dsmlink to check for trouble codes...because it sounds like your stock maf sensor is shot to death or your ecu shot to hell also.....first swap out your maf sensor withyour friends running one and see if that can solve your idle problem....if its still happening check your ecu for leaky caps....after that check your throttle body sensors....its also a good idea to change your knock sensor and also oxygen sensor while your at it....and as for your coolant problem put some new washers on those banjo bolts on the coolant turbo lines :confused:
 
hmm your right I do need a dsm link and I need someone with the laptop software to tap into the ecu to get an idea of what is happening, I think the maf is good bc it came off a friends car which had no trouble with it at all, do you think that an ecu can go bad just sitting around because when the car ran last before I pulled the engine it ran strong with only a few minor issues. What should normal afc settings be at 1k and 2k in both high and low throttle
 
DSMLINK is your software that taps in to your gst ecu...what you are trying to say is that you need a palm pilot or laptop with cable to tap into the ecu ( this is considered your hardware) im not sure what the afc settings should be at 1k and 2k because i never had the software to tune with it... but all the settings should be at 0 across the board because it seems like your mostly stock....when you start modding more you can start taking or giving fuel and or air....
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top