Help please green CAS RRE

[wickedz]

OK we have a 95 TSi with a 95 Eprom on V3 Full and SD. I have a completely rebuilt motor, ect. Im on a 7 bolt bottom with 6 bolt head ect. Now Im running a Green top CAS and its wired in RRE and its the simplifed way (thus using link to invert the signal). We crank the car over and get spark from ONLY #2&3.

Ginny Pig car (WORKING)

94 Talon TSi AWD

Used his black top CAS, his stock coil pack and wires, his Ignition Mod, ect and still only spark in #2&3 and obviously no start.

Now Im running a COP setup which was just rewired today. We went ahead and tryed to start my car with it, and no start. SO, we went ahead and took my COP and installed it on his car. It fired right up and ran great. Question is now, what could be our issues, knowing we have now narrowed down our issues not being my CAS,ignition mod, COP, ect seens how we are getting the same responce. The only thing I can think of that is wrong is our RRE simplifed wired in CAS.

Here are a couple images for you to see how its wired in. I have NO idea why there is no Yellow wire from the CAS plug as shown in all the RRE images. HELP please fast.

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CAS has a black wire in place for the YELLOW wire that RRE shows.

 

[snowborder714]

Are you making sure to swap the spark plug wires? I couldn't quite understand what all was going on with the main car and test car.
swapplugwires [ECMTuning - wiki]

 

[wickedz]

No its wired still as a 2g I believe 4123. Its wired up for 1&4 together and 2&3 single. Wired up using this link

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/425366-help-cop-pictures.html

 

[snowborder714]

When running a '95 ECU with a non-'95/'96 CAS, the plug wires (or COP signal wires) must be swapped.

 

[wickedz]

Can i do it with the COP and not start switching PINs? Just change up the wires on the cop setup?

That still would cause 1 AND 4 to have NO spark????

 

[synthetek]

swapplugwires [ECMTuning - wiki]

 

[snowborder714]

You should still get spark I think.

This article should show you how to adjust the wiring in the COP.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/290665-coil-plug-wiring-install-pics.html

 

[wickedz]

So the new fire order using the COP is now

1 to 3
2 to 2
3 to 1
4 to 4

?????

Ok I was just informed maybe it could be the Power Transistor pack not working or BAD grounding. Will try to either ground it out better tomorrow or try it on my friends car

what PINs do I need to change around on the Ecu? Iive exhausted all the other possible wrong options.

 

[stars]

Faulty Power transistor, or broken wire somewhere going in to it (CAS) or out..but that's if the coils both primary and secondary ohms out correctly and plugs, wires are good. Think about it what is 1 and 4 doing the other 2 are 3 are not doing? If one and 4 are firing the CAS is working. Same goes if 2 and 3 are not firing then 1 and 4 will. So, no matter in that scenario no matter which way you turn the CAS same result you will have, even if you replace the CAS same result. Don't get confused you almost had it solved, think it thru, focus on the problem. Make sure you battery is completely charged, circuits need proper voltages to operate correctly. You have to watch testing the transistor circuit it can only be powered by 1.5 volts when checking. If you hook 12 volts to it like other people do and try to test it you will have no spark to #1, #2, #3 and #4 now. You just fried the circuit if you did a test on it with 12 volts so get a new one and your problem is solved. Test wires for continuity going to the circuitry (ECU, CAS) at this point is next best thing to do..

Bad ground will disable that entire circuit perhaps not just half of it, you can rule out a bad ground because all circuits are working and only 1 circuit is half way working which is the "ignition" circuit.

You have a 2G ignition setup and no way to run it because your ignition system is set up for a 1G. 2 different ways they use to activate ignition circuit sequences. You will have to look at solving a way of providing a reference for timing I'm afraid and customize your own ignition system schematic in the end. That design looks cool and all but it was built when they are not normally used on engines with camshafts for timing. Now, modern vehicles only have crankshaft position sensors and the timing is done by ecu no way to adjust. It has to have a reference point to know when it is at TDC. So 2 different styles of ignition systems may look compatible, they aren't backwards compatible in this case you see. I don't say it is not impossible though to try to do it if need be, but it looks like a bunch of wiring work to do when the old way worked just as good. Make sure you didn't cut off the test plug or end didn't fall off if you have one attached, U may have seen it when you was doing your wiring, that will cause dead cylinders to suddenly happen

I think there maybe a simple way to test the transistor circuitry, if not already thought of..... I bet I can use a flashlight I have and attach some probe ends at each end of the flashlight. I can use the flash-lighted probe ends to power up the transistor circuit safely. I can then use my Fluke to test the circuit powered up. I bet I can use my test light too, but will have to modify a way to hook some metered power up to it ..idk about that idea... will have to fry a few things to get that problem figured out, a little smoke never hurts... I do have a logic probe I just started to use and I maybe can power up that circuit to test my theory, just had not the time to do it, just think about it.

With it working in your buddies car and not in yours is puzzling no doubt. As to leave to the speculation, I'd say wire definitely the cause, the effect is half of the system does in fact work although. Not a plausible signal it is getting so that would be the wire I would hunt with a continuity test. Should be in the main wiring loom so, you will have to slice that open. Take a meter and continuity check every 6 inches all the way back, starting at the connector all the way to ecu....you see where I say time consuming, because you have to peel back and expose even more loom as you go.. also I remember way back...they had problem with wire splices that they buried throughout the wiring harness itself but, the splices would separate and cause problems...so wiggle the harness around while its running and you may stumble on the exact location of the cause... it's funny ignition module is the main cause of that problem you have..I hate to rule out the obvious but check those connector ends and make sure they are tight and wire ends not pulled out in that circuit.....that's the way I do it...

 

[wickedz]

bought a Ohm meter and tested everything. Found only one wire not getting power. We did some more research and found out the noise filter that connects on top of the intake manifold, NEEDS to be plugged in. I left that sensor on my old 7 bolt intake when I traded for this 6 bolt one. I connected the ECU back into the car and went to start link up, so I can adjust ALL my settings and invert my CAS, and link isnt connecting now with my laptop. Frustrated we called it the night.