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HELP ME! Its disappearing! [coolant]

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this_tsi_8urV8

20+ Year Contributor
505
2
Jul 13, 2004
Chicago???, Illinois
Ok, I have replaced everything w/OEM stuff. Rebuilt engine, ALL gaskets, thermostat, radiator cap, hoses, belts, and water pump. All this done about 1.5yrs ago. Coolant started disappearing! :cry: I put more in and 2-4 days later it disappears. I turn the car off and hear it BUBBLING. The reservoir empties out, and the hoses that go to the reservoir have lots of steam coming out of them. Let rad. cap cool off and look inside and coolant is all gone. Looked for leaks, none, hoses fine, it just vanishes. Where dont know? Looked to see if heater core is leaking, nothing wet. I turn on a/c and fans turn on fine. I let it run on weds. and the fans took forever to turn on. Exhaust does not smell like its burning the coolant either. So, I think its either of these things: radiator, and POSSIBLY (based on some searching) the head gasket, which was replaced when engine was rebuilt. I THINK most likely its the radiator, because its kinda hmm....rotting i guess. But it was fine until a week ago. Havent done anything different. But if the coolant is disappearing because of the rotting radiator, shouldnt it leak it? Not disappear? Oh yeah not sure if it'll help, but heater gets lost, and the radiator is coolish to the touch. Thanks much.
 
Sounds like you havnt worked out all the air in the coolant system yet or your pushing boost into your coolant system which pushing water out while you drive. It's a closed system so the air thats getting in there creates hudge amounts of pressure.
 
Holy crap OMG , you have a problem with you coolant flow and are overheating, don't drive it :nono: Take the two 12mm bolts off the top thermostate housing and replace your thermostate, Check your hoses squeeze them and if they are soft and feel sticky there collapsing while your driving and causing your problem, replace in pairs. If these aren't you problem, take out the radiator and have it flushed at a radiator shop, its like 15 bones :thumb: . Since you have no coolent flow and your oil is cooled by the coolent your engine will overheat real fast and you might warp your nice aluminum head.

It sounds like your thermostat isnt opening at the right time though, That would be my first move, most people get a 180 degree, but most cars run 192 its your hot body... you do what you want. take luck :thumb:
 
Had the same problem as you. I replaced all hoses, thermostat, radiator cap many times over but in the back of my head I always knew it was the headgasket.

My compression was perfect both warm and cold, no smoke, no smell of burning coolant, and no oil/coolant mixing. I heard the same bubbling sound when I shut off my car.

I pulled the head and found that the gasket failed between the #3 cylinder and the nearby water jacket.

Lets hope its just a radiator problem.
 
Like I stated earlier all coolant hoses, radiator cap, thermostat, and head gasket were replaced at the same time, during my engine rebuild. So, I doubt its any of those. As far as the air bubbles, possible, but unlikely since when I rebuilt the engine, and for a 1.5yrs. I did not have any problem w/the cooling system what so ever. I think its either of these 2: 1.radiator, since its rotting; 2. head gasket(which I PRAY it is not). But like a friend said that it MIGHT be the radiator, since coolant is boiling, which suggests that the coolant itself is not being cooled(radiator/fans) and because when liquid boils, it expands, bubbles, and looks for an exit, which is provided by the reservoir.What do you guys think of that? 2 more questions:
1. How do I let the air out of the system?
2. I am planning on purchasing a fluidyne. But with my mods, Would it cool my engine too much? I need the heater in gr8 shape, here in the Chgo. winters.
 
I was having that problem and got tired of refilling with coolant so I just put straight water in and its not bubbling anymore. A few days later I leaked out the water and used a 70 water 30 coolant mix and its never happened since.
 
Leak down test time. No - not compression test, LEAK DOWN test. That would be the best way to find out fast if it is your headgasket. Just because it was replaced a year and a half ago doesn't mean it can't break, or operate incorrectly. Making coolant bubble in the lines is fun, make sure you get all the air out of your coolant system...

I always made sure that my car was nice and cold, took the top cap off (that cap thats over the thermostat) and wiggle the top hose with my hand to try and force the air out - thats just the way I do it though. (any air will be sitting at the highest point in your cooling system, which is that hose, push it down rather slowly. Try not to let coolant out, messy.)

I would post how to leakdown test, and pictures of the hose I am talking about to give you a 100% idea of what I'm talking about, but my browser is not working correctly.
 
Haven't gotten around to do any of the tests, I just wanted to post up some news.

NEWS: OK last night (tuesday) I went out to move my car, I hadn't moved it since Sunday. When the car was on it was running like shit, like if it had cams.

Any further input w/ the new developments?
 
OK, today I drove the car around the block to put it in the garage. I started the car up and it sounded the same, again, misfiring/car w/cams. I drove it slowly 2 see how it felt and was weak and hesitant. Then I put it in hight boost punched the gas and took off great! No smoke no hesitation, but once I put it in the garage and was idling, the same sound, a puff type of sound. Could it still be the head gasket? Well I am going to check out alot of things. I was thinking about gettin a cometic or the steel mitsu, will any of those lower my compression? Is it good to lower it? I will also put it in some ARP head studs.
Thanks.
 
OK, It's me again! I did a coolant pressure test. Nothing leaked, lost pressure though, slowly, where? Don't know. Took off plug wires, and found a puddle of oil in cyl. 4 and a lil in cyl. 2. So, that kinda takes care of the hesitation(at least I thought). Then cleaned oil out, took of plugs, cleaned them and did compression test. Cyl. 3 & 2 had 155, I tried to do cyl. 4 but, the darn thing did not want to screw in. Then I moved to plug 1, took it off, left plug 4 off, cranked the engine to get any 'gunk' out and it blew! Just like ole faithful. Bunch of water/coolant shot up spraying all over the place. So, I am pretty damn sure its the head gasket. I don't really know if it usually it shoots up like that, but if it doesn't, well it accumulated w/the coolant pressure test. Know to thank EVERYONE that posted and helped me w/this headache.
Again to the question about the head gasket, Will a cometic/steel mitsu. lower my compression?
AND, Do I HAVE to take off the all the belts including the t-belt to get the head off? Can't I just 'SLIDE' the t-belt off? :D
 
There was a guy on here that wanted to see if he could just slide out the headgasket without taking off his head. He was told that it was technically possible, but definitely not recommended. He had to put tension on the belt to allow him to lever the head up along with taking off a motor mount after supporting the engine with a jack. IMHO, it would be much better for you to take the head off and see if there is any other damage.

d
 
Yea a cometic will probably lower your compression ratio just a lil bit. They are pretty damn thick, but i wouldnt worry about it. Just get a nice cometic with ARP head studs. Might as well replace any timing belt issues as well. Tensioner, belt, etc. Just take your time and do it right. I just got my car back together right. We had put it together last time without plastigaging to save time. Well a rod i bought was egg shaped. My clevite 77 bearings held up for about a year and finally it spun. But we took our time this round and got it right. (put on a 14b while i was at it) god damn it runs great. No little rattling sounds either OMG

Honestly just take your time and make sure you replace ANYTHING that needs to be. To have a reliable and fast dsm means you have to take GREAT care of these things. We all know how bitchy they get! They are almost worse then women. Premium this, synthetic that, more boost please, they never stop! (sorry i rant sometimes)
 
Well, as far as replacing everything from the timing components, I will PROBABLY JUST replace the belts, w/greddy belts, because AMS did all the timing components less than 1 year ago. I did NOT want to slide off the head gasket, I wanted to slide the BELT w/o making it a tbelt job. You know taking off pulleys, ALL belts, timing cover, tbelt, etc.
So, yeah. ANY WAY of taking OFF the head, WITHOUT taking off all the timing components?
 
Julioluko said:
Holy crap OMG , you have a problem with you coolant flow and are overheating, don't drive it :nono: Take the two 12mm bolts off the top thermostate housing and replace your thermostate, Check your hoses squeeze them and if they are soft and feel sticky there collapsing while your driving and causing your problem, replace in pairs. If these aren't you problem, take out the radiator and have it flushed at a radiator shop, its like 15 bones :thumb: . Since you have no coolent flow and your oil is cooled by the coolent your engine will overheat real fast and you might warp your nice aluminum head.

It sounds like your thermostat isnt opening at the right time though, That would be my first move, most people get a 180 degree, but most cars run 192 its your hot body... you do what you want. take luck :thumb:


if you do drive it. you will blow your motor. the more pressure it has on the overheating, the less time it has to live.
 
Uh, thanks, my problem was fixed. Head resurfaced/cleaned, cometic h.g., arp head bolts, new radiator/coolant.
 
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