Help! I Need A Ride Home From Work

[DearestNameless]

I have a 1998 Eclipse GST Spyder.

I drove it to work and later that evening went to start it and all I was getting was a slight rumble then it would die.

I left it there for the past two days and came back to the same thing. I pulled the plug wires, checked the maf, check the turbo timer wiring, and pulled a bunch of plugs. I finally was able to get it to run for about 1-2 seconds, repeatedly, before it would die. I don't know what exactly caused it to change but it did.

Another interesting fact is it did the same thing a week before but I just messed with the battery, plugs, and wires and it started up randomly. Maybe I fixed it or maybe it fixed itself.

I'm completely lost on this one. I have done some searching and here are the things I have came up with:

VSS
ICS
ECU
MAF (I swapped in a different MAF)
Alternator/Battery (I got a jump pack on it)
Ignition Plug/TT (I checked the TT wiring)
Plugs/Wires (I've pulled and made sure all the wires are in order, replaced plugs 700 miles agao)

If anyone has any ideas or suggestions on what to try I will. I have no data logger so that isn't a option. And the car isn't throwing CELS but that doesn't mean there not burn out or pulled. Thanks.

 

[Kod]

Well for the ECU from what I know, if the ECU is bad it will run bad or just plain out not start.

A bad MAF could 100% cause that, I remember my eclipse would run but idle extremely low and then just cut out sometimes, then just got to the point it would start up and die right out.

Check the BISS maybe too.

 

[g4ebguy90]

Sounds fuel related to me, the only sensor on your car that would make it not start is the crank sensor, and IN A VERY RARE CASE a MAF. Can you check fuel line pressure on the fuel rail? if you cant maybe your code reader can.....

 

[SmalltownDSMer]

I left it there for the past two days and came back to the same thing.

I like this part

I've done the same hoping it would fix itself. Is there any corrosion or anything on the terminals or wires? Just saying because you said you messed with them before and it fixed it

Jayson

 

[GIRman67]

one thing to check and I know it sounds wierd. Check the temp Sensor. what you have sounds a lot like what my car did a while ago. My temp sensor had come unplugged, yours may have gone bad. but that's an option as well

 

[quik4g63]

Well for the ECU from what I know, if the ECU is bad it will run bad or just plain out not start.

Im not saying that i know what your problem is but when my ECU crapped it drove fine to work, went to go home and it wouldnt start, the injector ground signal was dim.

And then, randomly for no reason while trying to diagnose the weak signal, the car started, ran for a few minutes then died.

Turned out was a bad ECU.

 

[jaydubb1988]

Its sounds like what my talon use to do when it was cold out. It turned out to be the collent temp sensor I'd test it if I were you or just get a new one it was only like $25-35 bucks I think

 

[DSMTyson]

Test the CTS and get back to us.

 

[yepes281]

Sounds like the CAS sensor for sure, this happend to me.

 

[chuckstsi]

Any updates? I'm interested..

 

[DearestNameless]

Test the CTS and get back to us.

How do I test it?
I'm at work right now so any speedy response I can go and check and comeback.
If it is the ECU I'm screwed because I don't have another one to swap in nor even know how.
I can change the CTS easy enough I think.
The battery terminals are clean, one is new and I brushed the others clean. The battery is old but it holds a charge fine. I've cranked the piss out of it and it finally ran dead so I've been using the jump pack for tests.
Also is there a way to test the CAS.
I swapped in another MAF I got with my intake, I don't know if it works or not but it was a attempt. I did unplug it though and it didn't seem to make much of a difference.

Edit:
I just went and tried it again and now it wont start as often and when it does it idles terrible. I disconnected the front o2 sensor and it didn't do anything, so I plugged it back in. And then I tried the MAF again, and it didn't do anything. I unplugged the CTS and plugged it back in to make sure there wasnt corrosion but I still don't know how to check it. If it is cheap I might purchase one tomorrow before work.

 

[jaydubb1988]

Any word on your problem?

 

[DearestNameless]

Any word on your problem?

I changed the Coolant Temp Sensor, and it didn't fix anything. Should I change the switch?

I pulled the fuel pump and it was filthy so I'm going to change the fuel filter asap.

I also pulled out the turbo timer and rewired it again just to make sure it wasn't losing power to the ignition.

I'm also taking my Tactrix and Laptop to work and I'm going to try and log it and see if I can read the codes. I've never even used it before so any tips would be great.

 

[avenged5]

Well for the ECU from what I know, if the ECU is bad it will run bad or just plain out not start.

Not quite. Mine went through a period of starting and dying. Randomly dying at stop lights. Loss of power. Days without starting and then firing up like a champ.

 

[Rengar18]

As prev stated it very well may be the CAS. My crank pulley got loose and ate mine up. Took me awhile to find it but I torqued the pulley and replaced the CAS and it was car was good.


Also if you need a ecu to test I can send you one to borrow to swap out and test, just pay shipping there and back to me. Honestly tho i doubt the ecu went bad as 2g (especially 99 2g) usually dont go bad.. A tell tell way to see is to open it up and smell it. If it smells like fish and it has any obvious damage its probably bad.

 

[DearestNameless]

As prev stated it very well may be the CAS. My crank pulley got loose and ate mine up. Took me awhile to find it but I torqued the pulley and replaced the CAS and it was car was good.


Also if you need a ecu to test I can send you one to borrow to swap out and test, just pay shipping there and back to me. Honestly tho i doubt the ecu went bad as 2g (especially 99 2g) usually dont go bad.. A tell tell way to see is to open it up and smell it. If it smells like fish and it has any obvious damage its probably bad.

Great thanks for providing me with another option (The ECU). I have a 99 GST Automatic I could pull it from if they are the same though.

Now about the CAS. Can I swap the one from my 99 as well? This car is a 98 GST Spyder Manual.

Another thing I found out is that my transmission has 3 empty plug holes or atleast I'm guessing thats what they are and the first plug coming off the harness is broken and soldered together. If I get can a picture of this I will but I know this isn't the porblem because the car was in the same condition prior to this.

Edit: Also can someone tell me how to log the CELs or codes with Evoscan, Ecuflash, and Openport 2.0. I can't figure out how. I was able to get it all installed, the drivers working, and it to log. When I try to read the ECU with ECU flash after its done it says I have to abort, or attempt to save (but it wont be editable or readable), or something else for professionals.

New news!

I was able to scan or errors using Evoscan on OBDII and pressing the button on the bottom right (with the Tactrix cable OFC).

Anywho it pulled up these:
P0450 Evaporative Emission Control
P1105 Pressure Sensor Malfuntion
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction

So what does this mean I need to fix?
I'm guessing the CAS needs replaced?
Once I get a response I will fix these ASAP and report back.

 

[Rengar18]

Ahh thats what I ment, the crank positioning sensor(CPS) not the Cam angle sensor(CAS) . CAS cant get eatin up

But yea i'm not 100% if the 99 automatic sensor will work on the 98, maybe someone can chime in on that but yea the CPS looks to be your problem. The car will not start if its mangled or w/e. I would def change it and see what happens

 

[DearestNameless]

Ahh thats what I ment, the crank positioning sensor(CPS) not the Cam angle sensor(CAS) . CAS cant get eatin up

But yea i'm not 100% if the 99 automatic sensor will work on the 98, maybe someone can chime in on that but yea the CPS looks to be your problem. The car will not start if its mangled or w/e. I would def change it and see what happens

Where is this sensor? Some things I've looked at say where the case is behind the triangle piece and some others say behind the lower timing cover around the crank. Since it says Camshaft I would think it would be the first.

Autozone quoated me the CPS for 56$ in stock. I'm just hoping it isn't difficult to change since I can't move the car.

What about the others?

So far I've researched that P1105 is the fuel pressure solenoid next to the brake fluid and that I can test it by checking the ohms (36-44 resistance). It also may be the lines or the plug going into it.

And for the P0450 I've got the evap pressure sensor around the canister under the battery. It could also be a bad sensor, lines, or plug.

Thanks for all the help guys. I actually feel like I'm getting somewhere now. A few more responses and I think she'll be fine. Aslo the reason I'm posting so much information on research and such is for future reference for other Tuners.

Edit:

Check the lines on the P1105 and they seemed to be fine. I then cleared the codes and rescanned and all thats left is the CPS code. This might change once it runs again.

Anyways I scanned for codes in MutII and ODBII EFI and it comes up with CPS but when I change it to MutII and MutII EFI it reads a Vehicle Speed Sensor code. Which one is right? Now I'm back to being confused again.

 

[Rengar18]

Well I scan with MUTII EFI with evoscan 2.7. Ive actually never tried obdII. But assuming your speedometer is working fine i'm sure your vss is good. Vss also wont cause your car not to start, jst you speedometer/mile counter will stop working.


The CPS is RIGHT behind the the timing belt... like inside the back half of it. The connector is sticking out there, jst follow the wire.

 

[igotawdpsi]

If you can get someone who has an spare ECU, or even borrow theirs, I would try that to see if that gets you anywhere.

 

[laser5spdturbo]

CAS to me , try swapping your ECU with a buddys also .. Good luck

 

[DearestNameless]

I f***ing love tuners. I got it. It was the cps which is in the passenger side of the in-between the valve cover and head for those who don't know. My problem was someone has cut the plug and wired it back up but instead of taping each wire they wrapped them together somehow IDFK how it ever worked. I liquid taped them, electrical taped them individually, and then together. I wouldved used wire nuts but that's tacky. Through my expo I also found a pipe stuff in the upper ic pipe, the nipple on the t25 not hooked up and the intake nipple gone. I still haven't found out what's with the trans or the few plugs I don't know but I will and then post it asap. Also my speedo works but my odometer stopped and so did the trip could the vss be the problem? And where is it? Also what is the correct settings (both the top left settings obd dsm evo ect and for the bottom one efi) to scan for codes and log. Thanks a million.

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

for future dsm'rs never wrap your wires in electrical tape with out soldiering them FIRST! anything else would be 'Tacky' IMO,
I bet it wont last^