Help!!!! Car running way to rich!!!

[qwtstrn1]

So i don t know if i am posting this in the right place and i am a little new to the forum i have been doing alot of reading but still am not that comfortable on how to handle this problem. I went down to mass this past weekend with my 95 talon and bought a Evo 3 turbo evo 570( i think) injectors a SAFC and a 2.5 inch CB Buscher exhaust and had the two guys install it all along with a mbc. Well at first it all seemed to go fine the car was boosting fine but only hitting max 12lbsm and no matter how much we turned the mbc it never changed. Now i drove all the way back up to NH and took it to work yesterday and the CEL came on and it started to run worse. By this i mean not pulling like it was in 3rd gear and smoking when shifting into 3rd lkike running to rich. Now they adjusted the afc to what "they thought" was a good settings for what i was running but it was not lgged or tuned. I drive this every day and it is my only car Hence the urgency.
I havent got a logger yet and the closest awd dyno to me is 3 hrs away, so i am stuck. What i am looking for is some help to maybe get a walk thru on how to possibly diagnose the cel and tune the afc. I mean even if someone is local to me (Grafton NH 03240) I would gladly pay someone to come log and tune it for me. But i would def want to learn since i plan on making this a much larger build. I dont know alot to take in i guess ill just leave it at this for now.
P.S yesterday when all the problems started i called the guy who installed it all and he said to reset the afc to -20,-18,-23,-20,-22 and it ran worse .
Ne help is greately appreciated thanks If calling me would help explain ne of the directions or diagnoses feel free to call my cell 1-603-381-3742. thanks

 

[qwtstrn1]

Add>
The reason i say it is running rich is cause it blows a cloud of white smoke shiffting into 3rd and then forth.

 

[96eclipseawd]

I'm pretty sure black smoke means it's rich. Mine was running real rich from a big boost leak, black smoked at WOT.

Check this out: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/123603-smoke-colors.html

 

[JEFFREYCASTGSX]

Well if its rich then that would pour black smoke, does it still pull like it used too? The boost controller thing sounds weird, they probably didnt wire anything up write. Can you do a boost leak check? Also you should upgrade the fuel pump to at least a 190 or rewire the one that you have. You should try to reset the afc back to normal, and make sure its setup for your car.

 

[qwtstrn1]

The smoke is white and only when i am in boosti set the afc to -18 across the board and it seems to run a bit better but not like it did. Now white smoke is not good if im not mistaken but before i did the mods it wasnt smoking like it is. HMMMMMM i dont know

 

[JEFFREYCASTGSX]

It just may be running lean...WAY LEAN -18 seems like a lot, like i said reset the AFC and see how it runs and then go from there, JUST DONT GIVE IT TOO MUCH GAS....

 

[qwtstrn1]

You mean set the afc all to 0 across the board cause i thought that with the begger injectors i would want to lean it out so it wasnt dumping so much fuel but ive been wrong before. And once at 0 should i just lean it out from there in steps or ?
Also what is the correct way to hook up the mbc.
Thank u this is a really big help.

 

[JEFFREYCASTGSX]

yeah just do that, like i said they didnt know what they were doing...there is also another way to reset on the AFC it should be in the menu, and if you have a way to datalog or a wideband then just move in increments,

 

[JEFFREYCASTGSX]

oh just to add too much fuel is better than too little fuel

 

[qwtstrn1]

it is no a digital afc it is the one with the dials on the front that push in and out to set it is a Apexi SAFC

 

[rstchris]

You may have got a bad turbo if it's spewing oil and smoking white. If you got evo injectors you are gonna want to pull lots of fuel under light throttle. You should get it tuned or buy a w/b and DIY but don't boost it if you are using an @$$ dyno for tuning. It's not worth an engine.

 

[96eclipseawd]

My experience with white smoke during boost, was a blown turbo. If it's only smoking during boost not at startup or idle.

 

[GsXdSmKingGsX]

you must have a boost leak.

 

[qwtstrn1]

Boost leak y do u say that

 

[evileclipse909]

Most definently sounds like a blown turbo. Mine does the same thing and my o2 readings are normal. Was the turbo rebuilt? If so they may have done it wrong.

 

[JEFFREYCASTGSX]

Yeah i know what the afc is, i have one myself... it could be a blown turbo but then that would mean blue smoke because there is oil burning. But remember to do a boost leak test too.

 

[vinnyy]

is your BOV recirculated? that can cause you to run rich between shifts.

 

[SpyderDSM]

just because the bov isn't recirc'd wouldn't mean it's going to smoke the way he's describing. +1 on the blown turbo. especially if u pushed it and it held tight on 12 psi.. idk yeah agreed on the boost leak but that wouldn't explain smoke either. boost leak test first, then tell us where you're at

 

[spyderturbo007]

It just may be running lean...WAY LEAN -18 seems like a lot, like i said reset the AFC and see how it runs and then go from there, JUST DONT GIVE IT TOO MUCH GAS....

"Seems like a lot" "May be running"

If you don't know what you're talking about, please don't respond. Mis-information is worse than no information at all.

If you do indeed have 580cc injectors, then mathematically, -18% is rich just to hit the target AFR of 9.5:1. You need to get a logger before messing around with the SAFC. It's not something you can do "on the fly" with no feedback from the ECU unless you aren't worried about blowing up your car.

You need to find out what injectors you are actually running by pulling one. Then make sure you don't have an boost leaks, perform your routine maintenance and purchase a logger. I wouldn't be driving the car until I did.

Also, white smoke is typically burning coolant, so you'll want to do a compression test and make sure the head gasket isn't blown.

 

[qwtstrn1]

So heres an update, I said screw it when i started to see my temp guage rising and falling while driving normally and after ALOOOT of reading as i hear so many of u guys ask the new guys to do i figured that i lifted my head. So i purchased a set of ARP head studs and a freshly built head with new valve seals oem valves, springs, and retainers and all new gaskets and had it al replaced and torqued to spec. Well >>>>>>>
........... it still does the same S**T...
So everyone is back on the same page i punch it in say i dont know 2nd gear to like 6500 rpms and let off to shift and that is when it blows a huge cloud of WHITE smoke. It pulls like hell, temp stays the same and their is no shaft play in the turbo. I have a new 1G bov modded and dropped the hallman mbc back down to about stock and it still does it. And now ive noticed that my idol has been going a little high but will hit 2000 rpm's hear and there and if i hit the gas it usually lowers to normal 700ish.
.....So after reading for the past like 3 days i have come to the decision that i am going to drive it into the local gorge and buy a honda >>>.just kidding (been there done that)
Could my fiav have ne thing to do with it maybe the gasket being bad and allowing coolant to pass into the intake and burn or well i dont know. NE one have ne ideas i am open to all suggestions. Thanks

 

[lowandsleekDSM]

Im with Spyderturbo007 on this one. Do not drive that car until you do all your tests. Compression test,l eakdown test, boost leak test, check your oil for coolant and vise versa, check for turbo shaft play, check how your spark plugs and wires are, check and test whatever you can. Test everything! And get a logger, trust me with a problem like this you need some kind of window into your ECU to see what is going on. Are you throwing any kind of CEL? Because the logger will pin point your CEL and tell you how your o2 sensor is doing and tell you how your timing and TPS readings are like. When you get your logger, take it to a dyno and sort out your problems there. But dont drive your car like the world depends on it. I think buying the new heard and ARPs were a little too quick but thats just me, although the ARPs is a nice upgrade for stock head bolts. Hopefully this kind of helps you out or atleast gives you a start.

 

[qwtstrn1]

so heres an update car is a 3000 plus lb paper weight
did a compression check came out 135,140,100-110,135-140. oh yeah thats what im talking about.
So is it worth rebuilding my 7 bolt with 62,000 miles.

 

[spyderturbo007]

Was the car fully warmed up and the throttle completely opened when you performed the test?

 

[qwtstrn1]

Okay now i feel really dumb i have never done this test before so i went by what a kid i know thought was the right way but i read a post on how to do it the correct way and i will do it tomorro morning and get back to u with all the results.
Besides the hg and the turbo is their ne other way that coolant can get into my intake manifold and cause this.????
thanks for all the help the i-net so far with the exception of a guy in mass has been my only source of info on DSM's so it is very appreciated. Ne thing u wanna throw in ill listen even if it is not so nice (i have my retard moments)

 

[Bluefire16]

Check your wastegate on the turbo, might be the reason for you not being able to boost or 12 psi. I had the same problem kinda....my wastegate was dented and could open all the way.