HELP!!! cant get the clutch to work right.

[my_precious]

http://www.slowboyracing.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14

www.vfaq.com

I did a bunch of the tips these sites give on adjusting a clutch. I have a 90 AWD 5 spd and the previous owner installed a ACT 2600 clutch. I blead the system, adjusted it so that i have as much leverage as possible and i checked the slave cyl boot (took it off like vfaq says) and it wasnt leaking. as for taking the tranny off and checking it....ugh, dont wanna do that! im stuck though. If you press the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and try to put it in gear the gear will grind. if you put it in first or reverse and then push the clutch in and try to start the car, the car will either go forward or backward (depending on the gear obviously). basically, ive concluded that pushing the pedal to the floor does not fully disengage the clutch from the engine. I tryed some things and i CAN NOT get it to work. if you put the car in first gear and start it pressing as hard as you can on the clutch pedal the car will not move, however, in reverse it will. if you press down regularly to the floor, like you're supose to, it'll move. in my lebaron, i just hop in and press the pedal down, i dont push as hard as i can, just push it to the floor. the talon is jacked up and i cant figure it out. PLEASE SOMEBODY HELP ME!!!

hehe, thanks guys,

zach

 

[JCMDSM]

Okay I would suggest checking the slave and master cylinders for leakage. Bleed the clutch system making sure there is fluid in the drain cup or you'll suck up air. Adjust the rod on the master cylinder all the way out. Check the alignment of the clutch fork and make sure that it is sitting in the middle of the rubber boot on the tranny. If not it may be bent. If so replace it . Also the pivot ball can become warn down over time and give you less throw. Finally check your pedal play and see if you need to have the actuator arm welded per the vfaq article. Good luck and let us know what you find.--Jon

 

[my_precious]

ok, i've done ALL of that accept check the pivot ball which with that im not sure what you're talking about. also, i checked the pedal play but im not sure what the normal amount is...

 

[JCMDSM]

The pivot ball is the folcrum point of the clutch fork. To check that you basically have to pull the transmission. I would suggest buying a new fork and pivot ball, pulling the trans and replacing them. After 15 years of driving I'm guessing they can't be in that great of shape. The parts are only like $65 from Shepracing. For a quick bandaid you could shim the pivot ball with a 1mm washer if cash is tight (I've been there). The pedal play shouldn't be more than 1/2 inch or so. Good luck --Jon

 

[forGEE63]

Before you go pulling the transmission, make sure your shifter linkage is correct. Also put all new Clutch fluid (Brake Fluid) in and get all of the air out. Than if the problem persists than start pulling the trans.

 

[brodiedehass]

I worked on and F-250 that had a similar problem last week. It started ever since a new clutch and flywheel were put in. After a little diagnosing I found that the bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel were not tight. Luckily I was able to access them through the inspection plate and fixed the problem. I not sure if you can see or let alone get to them on a DSM through the inspection cover but it would be worth a try.

 

[my_precious]

man oh man. i think im gonna have to wait till i get some money, and i'll replace the pivot fork and everything else in there, along with upgradeding to a ACT xact flywheel. I think the flywheel wasnt restepped correctly and that this is my problem. i'm not sure but thats gonna suck if i have to end up taking the tranny off.