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Help! Axle Threads Bent..

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Shane2GSX

15+ Year Contributor
423
24
Oct 13, 2005
Louisville, Kentucky
In the midst of installing my new SBR 3500 clutch and XACT flywheel on my GSX, we ran into a little problem. Everything has went smoothly for the most part, and we're almost finished. The only problem is when removing the axles, my buddies seemed to think (against my wishes) they needed to hammer my axles out from the outside in to make things easier to get to. In the process, the threads got bent on the passenger side axle as you might imagine. Now we can't get the bolt to go back on, which is the only thing holding us up from finishing the install. We have tried rethreading the axle by heating it up with a small torch. No luck. We've tried using a small flat head screw driver and other various flat tools with a hammer to straighten the threads. No luck still. Got the idea to take it out all together and use a tool my buddy has (don't know what its called but it has a roller and it rethreads) to fix the threads, but we can't get the damn axle out no matter what we do. We even tried using thick steel against the axle with 2 c-clamps on both sides pressing it with a lot of force. Wouldn't budge. So at this point, we're thinking of cutting the axle itself with a demel since the bent threads are just at the beginning. Other than that we're stumped, anyone have any ideas/advice???
 
hmmm...do you have air tools? if so do you have one of those air chisel things that goes forward and back in a spring motion really fast? With a pointed attachment it should pop the axle right out.

If not perhaps use the dremel and a steady hand to recarve the threads. Just a thought but that might do it enought to get it started.

I suppose you could run out to the hardware store and try to find a tap/die set big enough for it. good luck
 
It's my buds garage and he does have an impact, but that's about it. But using a dremel to recarve the threads is a good idea. Better than just cutting off the axle at that point. He also does have a tap/die set, but I don't know what sizes it can handle.. But all good ideas thank you. I think we'll def give the dremel recarving the threads a shot!
 
you wont beable to re-cut threads wiht a demmel... I would suggest grinding the bad threads down and then installing the nut or cut off the end of the axle.Goodluck Use anti seize on the axle splines and next time use a piece of wood between.
 
EclipseTrbo420A said:
you wont beable to re-cut threads wiht a demmel... I would suggest grinding the bad threads down and then installing the nut or cut off the end of the axle.Goodluck Use anti seize on the axle splines and next time use a piece of wood between.

depending on how bad the threads are damaged it IS possisble to fix them with a dremel. I have done it.

good luck. let us know how it worked out
 
I mushroomed my rear axle end like this when I had to replace a wheel bearing. You have the right idea. Just cut off the end where the bad threads are or grind it down. As long as it's not screwed up beyond the hole for the cotter pin.
 
Alright, last night we finally got this fixed and got the clutch install wrapped up. We ended up using the dremel and cutting off the end. Worked perfectly, went right on. However, we had to cut right in the middle of where the holes are for the cotter pin, so putting in a cotter pin was out of the question. Instead, we used a good bit of locktight to help keep it from vibrating loose, and got it very tight. I'm thinking it should hold fine. Anybody think this was a bad idea?

Also, after bleeding the clutch line and taking it out for a spin, we figured out that the speedometer is not working, so now I have to fix that.

Also, when we first took it out all the gears seemed nice and smooth. We parked it checked things, cleaned up the garage and took it out again. At that point the gears seemed a little tough to get in sometimes so I'm guessing after driving it around, that the trans fluid had time to move around and now more needs to be added?? (Yes it was drained and refilled) I really am not sure..

Lastly, the clutch engages about 1/2 an inch to an inch off the floor, which is fine. But the clutch pedal seems slow to come all the way up, especially when putting it to neutral.. what could cause that?
 
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