Head removal/ torque specs?

[91TSIallday]

Ok so i got a 1990 DSM that i picked up for $300 and it had the timing belt snap so it took some valves with it. I took off everything including cams so now im stairing at the head still on the block and what my questions are, the 12-point 12mm head bolts or all that i need to take off to pull the head right? And im almost sure the torque specs to put the head back on for the head blots are 65-72lbs, correct? Keep in mind that i am not going to be keeping this car since i am in the middle of building my 91 TSI, i just dont like seeing a DSM down at a mechanic shop!

 

[wezzy785]

from what i see it is 80 ft.lbs or 110 nm

http://www.mirage-performance.com/tech/Manuals/DSM%20Service%20Manuals/1g-90-92-4g63overhaul.pdf

 

[91TSIallday]

huh i've never seen that before. All i've heard was 65-72lbs I dont know if thats for a 7-bolt or what. Mines a 6-bolt, If i missed anything about the head removal let me know.

 

[wezzy785]

That shade be for 6-bolt or a 90-92 4g63 with DOHC


Someone correct me if I am wrong ###

 

[91TSIallday]

ya i will deffinatly look at that spec sheet/ book! you gave me. I was looking at old threads and searching the internet and came across 65-72lbs alot. I was just seeing if i could get a 100% on the specs and anything else i am missing in pulling the head off.

 

[TFFC]

As for pulling the head off their are 10 13mm allen bolts holding it on. Its very important to get one that can be put on a rachet or sometimes breaker bar. They can be very tight!!!! Make sure you use the right steps for taking each stud out and loosen the bolts 1/4 turn at a time. Also their are 3, I want to say gold plugs in the middle of the head, that look like they should come out, THEY DON"T. As for putting the head on. Make sure you use the right torque sequence and the right torque pattern. The book says 72 ft lb but I always go to 75ft lb. I go 15-30-75ft lb in three stages when I torque, hasn't let me down yet. Hope this helps

 

[91TSIallday]

that helped alot! That answered damn near all my questions! Now the only thing left is the sequence. From what i remember wasnt the order- top middle 2, bottom middle 2, top left 2, bottom right 2, top right 1, bottom left 1? And to take the head off just use that order but backwards from bottom left 1, top right 1, bottom right 2, top left 2, bottom middle 2, and finally top middle 2? But should i break them lose first or just a 1/4 of a turn or to a certain torque pound?

 

[91TSIallday]

and i dont want to take out the head studs from the block i just want to take the blots off to take the head off. Thanks

 

[91TSIallday]

i need to know the sequence for the bolts in the head to remove it with in 2-3 hours thanks

 

[dsmfa9nutter]

Start in the middle and break them loose (about half a turn) in a star pattern, once they're broken loose, take them all out in the same pattern. Do it after the engine has cooled for a day after the last run to lessen the chance of warping during removal.

 

[91TSIallday]

a local mechanice said to just go from the outside in and break them lose about a 1/4 of a turn. If someone has a diagram for the sequence that would be great. Im slow undersanding the star sequence

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

They are not 13 mm allen bolts. If you own a 91, which is a 6 bolt, they are 10mm. I just did it. And if the motor has not been running for a while, just loosen all of then from the center out. It wont hurt anything. I just did this, trust me. I would go to sears and get the 10mm allen socket, with a 3/8 to 1/2 drive converter than use a 1.5 foot long breaker from harbor frieght on it. The break loose easily.

James

 

[TFFC]

4-6-9-7-1
2-8-10-5-3

Loosen them in that order starting with one, and when you put it back on start at 10 and work backwards. And make sure you do the 3 torque stages I told you about earlier

 

[lacroixdp]

Torque them to 80FT/LB, not 75, if you are using OEM bolts. Torque to ARP's suggested specs if you are using ARP studs. Make sure you chase the threads with a bottom tap before you put the head back on - use air to clean the holes afterwards. Lastly, if you are using OEM bolts, put on anti-seize lubricant... use ARP moly if you are using their bolts. Make damn sure you put the washers back on if you're going OEM... you'll eat through the head material if you don't.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Or the washers for the ARPs as well. I was always told 80-85, so. And the torquing that TFFC is talking about is correct. I read also and my friend did it like this though. He would go to 20, then loosen them all, then go to 50, then loosen them, and then go to 80 in the pattern TFFC said. We did that on a 96 eclipse gst and hasnt blown yet, so that works too.

James

 

[91TSIallday]

Thanks everyone! I got the head off lastnight, with the intake and exhaust manifold on, it took me about an hour and it was my first time doing it so i think im getting the hang of the DSM ways. I am going to use the stock OEM head bolts to put it back on and use the order but reverse to put them back on. So i got this right when putting them back on in the reverse order hand tighten them than torque to 15lbs, lossen them torque to 30lbs than lossen again and finally torque to 75-80lbs, right?

 

[lacroixdp]

If you chase the threads you don't have to torque then loosen etc... just go in stages as suggested above. I do 30, 60, then 80.

 

[TFFC]

Don't torque then loosen them. If you do this you might as well just torque to 75 and be over it, ### after you loosen your back to 0 torque. Also make sure you put oil on both sides of the washer to get a proper torque reading.

 

[91TSIallday]

ok my bad i read that post wrong. Tighten them down by hand than in the order you said torque them to 15 than 30 than 75 Tanks alot!!!

 

[TFFC]

Start at number 10 and work back words and don't forget the oil on the washers.

 

[91TSIallday]

thanks TFFC, kudos! Thats gonna help saved my a$$!!! Yup so 10, 9, 8 etc..and DONT forget the oil between the washers! got it! THanks again and to everyone!