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Having fuel problems possibly?

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TqMnster

Probationary Member
19
0
Jan 3, 2008
Wingate, North Carolina
Ok just bought this car last weekend with a 16g and a tt supra fuel pump thats hardwired to the battery. ONly gauges he had installed is a greddy EGT which always runs around 6k and ~7500 under WOT. Stock boost gauge shows about 11 psi max. I was reading on here and It was saying that with an aftermarket pump and with no FPR you'll hit fuel cut.... Well the other day I took off in second and at 6500rpm it just stopped with a bang and I let off and babied it from there. I figured that was it. So My question is should I buy an aftermarket FPR? A guy locally has an NRG regulator and gauge setup thats brand new and I was thinking about installing it this weekend along with my MAFT Gen 2, GM Maf, Boost gauge, AEM Wideband, Datalogger, Intake, and BOV...... If I do need it and all what should I set the pressure at?
 
First off that setup won't make you hit fuel cut, but it will overrun your stock regulator, causing you to run rich, most noticably at idle, probably not at WOT but it's possible. You need to do a boost leak test because you shouldn't be hitting fuel cut at 11psi even on a 16g. You probably have a boost leak which causes air that the MAF calculates to escape, therefore it adds more fuel and the ecu cuts it off when it predicts the injectors to be at %100 duty cycle.

How hard was the hit? Like a bad misfire or like your tranny just fell out?
 
OK It felt like I hit a freakin wall. Pretty hard. I have been suspecting a boost leak and was gonna go to lowes this evening to rig up a tester. Isn't it a 2.5" inlet size on the turbo? I was hoping to do some logging and tune it on up to 16-18 psi this weekend but I need to settle any problems that I may have before I do that. Hoping its just a boost leak. Also whats the deal with the capacitors? Could that be it as well??
 
A 16g at 11psi(and no supporting fuel mods other than a fuel pump) is gonna make you hit fuel cut. Throw a fpr, and a way to tune and datalog on there.

No it won't, do a boost leak test. But he is right in that you do need to get a afpr though, that's a big pump especially with a rewire.
 
Ordered bout 700 worth of stuff monday so whats another 600 for fpr and injectors LOL
 
Also whats the deal with the capacitors? Could that be it as well??

Yeah if they've never been changed then they have leaked. (unless the car has extremely low miles on it/always driven in a colder climate) And take my word for it, get it fixed asap or you'll be dealing with more problems like I was, and my board was almost shot when I finally decided to get it fixed. Very stupid on my part.

And if somehow they haven't leaked yet don't let that fool you into thinking they don't need changed, because they will leak. Save yourself some trouble and get it over with.
 
Ordered bout 700 worth of stuff monday so whats another 600 for fpr and injectors LOL

Sounds like way too much money for injectors. What are you going to be using to tune these injectors? And you should be able to find an adjustable fpr on classifieds for around $100 or less, then you can buy the stainless steel fuel lines at autozone for around $30-40.
 
Do you know right off hand what kind of capacitors are required? HOping I can get them at radioshack and not have to order them
 
They're the ones listed in the link I posted. Still no good deal? Where should I look? it was 274 for FIC 850s and 234 for the AFPR kit....
 
Please refrain from posting multiple times in a row. The edit feature is not timed, so you can simply edit a previous post if you think of something else.

:)
 
They're the ones listed in the link I posted. Still no good deal? Where should I look? it was 274 for FIC 850s and 234 for the AFPR kit....

I would buy used injectors off of the classifieds, but if you want new ones and can afford them, that's cool too.

Plan on tuning with the MAF Translator Gen 2 and my datalogger

I'm not positive but you might have a hard time tuning that big of injectors with just a maft. Do some more research before you go with those injectors.
 
Please refrain from posting multiple times in a row. The edit feature is not timed, so you can simply edit a previous post if you think of something else.

:)

My apologies!

Only reason I hesitate browsing the classifieds is I've been burned 2-3 times back when I had my 95 so it kinda makes me hesistate to spend a couple hundred again... As for tuning with the Gen 2 it is actually more tunable than the S-AFC from what I've read and it also allows you to use a GM maf so that is my reasoning behind that and I'm not goin DSM Link anytime soon
 
Yep. 850s on an AFC would be a bi*** to tune. I'm not sure about the MAFT, though. When my car was pre-Link, I had a custom chip doing the majority of the compensation for the injectors.
 
I emailed several people with AFPR setups and injectors so I should have some on the way. One thing I noticed on my car is that all the vacuum lines etc that connect to the 3-4 little boxes that are directly over the brake master cylinder and the one thats on the airbox that have all the bars for vacuum lines are all gone. Is that bad LOL? Seriously I just noticed that but it runs prefect.

Also withmy car being a 90 should I upgrade to the 91+ fuel rail??
 
They're the ones listed in the link I posted. Still no good deal? Where should I look? it was 274 for FIC 850s and 234 for the AFPR kit....

Its an alright deal. I just bought a set of used FIC 850s(they have 3k miles on them) from classifieds for 210$, and prior to that I was looking around for a good deal long enough. AFpr is cost me 190$, but along with fuel sending unit, walbro 255 and fuel lines.
 
One thing I noticed on my car is that all the vacuum lines etc that connect to the 3-4 little boxes that are directly over the brake master cylinder and the one thats on the airbox that have all the bars for vacuum lines are all gone. Is that bad LOL? Seriously I just noticed that but it runs prefect.

Also withmy car being a 90 should I upgrade to the 91+ fuel rail??

You should be alright w/out those vacuum lines, search google for "taboo speed shop vacuum diagram" and you'll find which hoses you can and can't have. The only one I can think of up there is the fuel pressure solenoid, which you don't need. I don't remember the others but I know mine aren't hooked up either.

As for the fuel rail I thought they were all the same??? A good website to check out if you don't know about it is VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions There's a lot of compatibility questions and answers on there.
 
You cant be positve about that, i have seen numerous cars hit fuel cut at very low boost, and remember all cars are different.

It's true all cars are different now but if the ecu and maf are in good working order then you won't hit fuel cut until 16psi, higher if the lower honeycomb is removed. Granted with a 16g fuel cut will come on earlier, but 11psi should be fine, 13 or 14 is probably where it would hit.

Almost everyone who's bought a dsm bought it with boost leaks, since he hasn't done a test you can almost be sure he has some.
 
I'm am VERY sure it does have some LOL. And I was reading about the 90 to 91-94 throttle body swap and the fuel rail had to be swapped out to be acomplished. With 90 being the first year several things were changed in 91 including the throttle body, fuel rail, shifter setup and various other things....
 
I was sooo happy when I ran home for lunch. Had a nice big box full of parts in my carport waiting for me thanks to UPS and Extreme PSI :D And I just got back to work and sent VTEC THIS some money for his/her AFPR setup and PTE 880 injectors that I got for a steal :D :D :D
 
OK so last night I got my boost gauge in and took a short run and I was blown away. I knew the car was fast and that the stock boost gauge was off but my god the thing was reading 11-12 psi and my autometer was reading 22-23psi!!!!! It would spike to 25 when I punched it but would pull back real quick but it only cuts in the higher rpms so I'm guessing fuel is my problem. So an AFPR will fix my problem???
 
You're definitely experiencing fuel cut. On a stock 14b (which pushes less air than a 16g) you will hit fuel cut at/around 16psi. So you're way over the limits. Turn your boost down until you hit a level that doesn't cause fuel cut or you can damage things. Also if you still have the stock sidemount intercooler you're probably experiencing a lot of knock which will retard timing and slow the car down, so basically you'll probably be faster if you turn the boost down (sounds weird I know)

There are a few options you can use to get rid of fuel cut, the maft that's on the way is one of them. Be careful about turning your boost up high without logging for knock though or bad stuff can happen.

As far as the afpr, it won't get rid of fuel cut but you'll probably feel a better low-end response once you get it because you're probably running very rich at idle/low rpms.
 
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