Hard Brakes

[Dr Ronald]

So I just go a new 95 AWD. It's got drilled and slotted rotors and two piston front brakes. These are stock right? Anyways I think the pads a ceramic. This is the first time I've had a setup this good so I'm not really sure what it should feel like. I do know, however, that it is really hard to stop. The pedal feels like I'm stepping on a concrete block. It takes a long time to stop. It gets better the more I drive, but is never really that great. I don't think I could lock up the wheels if I wanted to. Do you think it is a bad booster or is it just because my brakes are cold. Like I said I've never had this setup so I'm not sure what it's supposed to feel like. Also, the pad have plenty of life and there is no grinding (from the brakes at least).

 

[97gst_spyder]

Sounds like your brake booster lines is not hooked up or that the brake booster is inop. Check for the rubber line that goes from your intake mani to the brake booster.

 

[agentorange313]

Sounds like your brake booster lines is not hooked up or that the brake booster is inop. Check for the rubber line that goes from your intake mani to the brake booster.

yes it does, if you ever have had your car die while coasting and apply the brakes it feels the exact same way since there is no vacuum. Time for a leak test, also check the checkvlave in our system. The stock one is pretty weak, from what I have heard, I would look into replacing it with a nice metal or plastic check valve.

This is the one I use with some 3/8 vacuum line. Boomba makes them but they are pricey, I really did it for the ascetics and they are metal check valves.
Boomba Racing, Inc. :: Check Valve

9!'clipseDOHC suggested this one:
3/8" Kynar® Standard Check Valves | U.S. Plastic Corp.

 

[jtmcinder]

Not only check if the booster hose is hooked up, but also check if the one-way valve is working. The booster should never "see" boost, only vacuum.

Does the car have ABS?

 

[Dr Ronald]

No it doesn't have ABS. Where is this valve at and how do I check it? So I should be correct in assuming this setup should rip my face off if I want it to? Not that it's the greatest but you know what I mean.

 

[agentorange313]

No it doesn't have ABS. Where is this valve at and how do I check it? So I should be correct in assuming this setup should rip my face off if I want it to? Not that it's the greatest but you know what I mean.

If you talking about your brake set up, maybe, it really depends on the material used with your brake set up.

There is something called the co-efficient of friction. This is quantitative data that is used to describe the ratio of friction between two bodies and force pushing them together (rotor and brake pad). the coefficient of friction is determined by what type of metals are used in both the brake bad and rotor. It is very common for a brake pad to contain metals that are softer than the rotor allowing it to fade and also for a high(er) coefficient of friction. Asbestos, brass, copper, chopped glass, ceramic.

The idea is that you want a high coefficient of frictions, creating the most braking force possible. Now with a high coefficient of friction there will be increase pad wear. Thats why I dont understand when people by brakes pads that are supposed to last for years or lifetime or whatever. It doesn't make any sense, its friction so one material has to wear and everything wears done to a point of it needing to be serviced.

Many will suggest Hawk Pads and really any type of rotor now a days. Rotors have come a long way, they do not need to be cut anymore, they are so cheap they can just be replaced, but this also plays into "You get what you pay for" so make a good choice. Ebay rotors might do the job and be cheap, but its a gamble compared to ones with a guarantee life time warranty or any warranty.

Depending on who made those rotors in the front, I have seen, due to the drilled holes, the rotors wear much faster. This is a personal opinion but on a daily driver, I would use blank or slotted, never drilled. You really aren't saving any weight, even though unsprung is the best weight to save, and i feel that the stability of a solid rotor is best.

 

[04bls84]

My check valve was missing and my brakes did the same thing. Now that I have a valve on place it works better but not great. The rear calipers are hanging up and the brakes still crappy but I gotta get a new power brake booster to fix that. Once a booster gets boost it is junk.