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Good nitrous story!

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trmpt63529

Probationary Member
6
0
Feb 10, 2005
memphis, Tennessee
i used to have a 96 eclipse n/t, too make a long story short.. we installed a zex dry kit without a pill.... (yes on accident) the first time we took it out and put the pedal to the floor we heard BOOOOOOM!!! the breather tube was blown off and it cracked a couple of pistons... so no pill is not a good idea for anyone that wants to try it, after a motor we put a sniper wet kit at a 150 shot and put a resistor on the coolant temp sensor to make it run richer. we got a good solid 12 to 15 bottles of gas through it before we had to replace a piston or two. the only problem that we had was the ring lands in the pistons were breaking.. and of course instead of buying forged pistons we just put stockers back in. we probably rebuilt the motor 5 times in 6 months, (we do a lot of them at my shop and have lots of spare parts). the coolest part is we reused the same crank and rod bearings EVERY time we rebuilt it! we never made it to the track but we were runnin about 94 mph at an 8th mile. just thought i'd share my fun with you guys! happy spraying!
 
trmpt63529 said:
we never made it to the track but we were runnin about 94 mph at an 8th mile. just thought i'd share my fun with you guys! happy spraying!

So all you gotta do is add 150 shot to an N/T car and you have a high 11 second car? I don't think so.
 
probably more like a high 13 or low 14 car... it only pulls for so long, plus this was marked with a the speedometer, so it IS off.
 
You probably know, but I'll say it anyway. The rings are probably causing the breakage. Rings expand a great deal under heat and end gap will butt together at a certain point, after that there is nowhere to go but into the cylinder. Eventually the piston goes to tdc and the ring friction is so intense that it's easier to pull the top ring land off the piston. I personally like cast pistons, they're light, cheap, and seal better. As long as you don't ring-butt 'em or throw fod in there they are actually quite strong.
My solution to this problem is to run a greater top ring gap, and use gapless rings on the second groove. I've also been using home-applied ceramic coating on the pistons to help keep temps down. I'd be curious to see how much longer the engine lasts if you do these mods.
 
i wonder if the problem was actually us hitting the rev limiter... i believe that the car kills the fuel at the rev limiter but i'm not certain.......
 
trmpt63529 said:
i wonder if the problem was actually us hitting the rev limiter... i believe that the car kills the fuel at the rev limiter but i'm not certain.......

That could be a VERY good reason why. When you hit the rev limiter, the ecu cuts spark. When you do that, you are spraying more nitrous into the cylinder but not igniting it. When you do get a spark, you have too much nitrous/fuel. That's how nitrous backfires happen. cylinders get filled up with nitrous, get a spark, BOOM.
 
Rev limiter won't do squat. I have done huge burn outs with nitrous on holding it off the revlimiter while the tires smoke. On my GTI I would launch at 5500rpm and it would hold off the rev limiter all the way though first with the nitrous on. Eventually the car speed caught upto the tire speed and I would shift right then to keep it in the power band, banging off the rev limiter the whole time. I raced like this for two solid years with no problems. As long as your rev limiter is spark limited not a fuel limiter, then you have no problems. The nitrous/fuel just gets shot out the exhaust and makes for a healthy flame out the back end. Generally fuel limters are traction control on newer cars which we don't have to worry about anyway.
 
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